Cookie's Workbench - 7/8ths Alan Keef K40
- Thread starter Steve Cook
- Start date
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
Makes this at £140 seem a bargain (full sound, lights etc - bloomin' lovely and my favourite livery to boot)
mmm, I do miss that layout sometimes...
mmm, I do miss that layout sometimes...
Old Buffer
Western Thunderer
Ah, the dark side you are yearning for, are you.
You will give Jordan apoplexy. It looks good though.
Alan
You will give Jordan apoplexy. It looks good though.
Alan
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
A bit more brickwork 
One of the Guv's many, many Parcels Offices made it over here during the Christmas break, so I've been having another play. Last time I'd used filler powder for the mortar but felt it was a little coarse, this time around I've tried out moulding plaster, its primary use being the restoration of picture frames. Its very white, and very fine. The whole wall
On the left hand side the mortar is flush with the brickwork (new), between the windows it is slightly recessed (worn) and almost missing on the right (aged). There is also a patch of 'whitewashed' brickwork, not wholly successful, but shows there might be a bit of promise with some more work.
This photo shows off well the ability of the plaster to take colour - too ruddy well really!
The brickwork is primed, then painted with colours mixed from the Games Workshop range. It may be that the pigment strength is very good in the red, for this seems to have stained the plaster when the surfaces were wiped down. A few wiggly lines have also crept onto the bricks from the laser, any ideas Guv?
A slight recess to the mortar using a cocktail stick came up quite well, it also has the advantage of removing the top layer that has been stained by the paint
A very sharp cocktail stick was used to grind out a fair bit of the mortar for the aged look, this bit has also had some brown and grey weathering powders brushed over the top
There are another three sides to try out techniques and materials on, grouting powder is next on the hit list
One of the Guv's many, many Parcels Offices made it over here during the Christmas break, so I've been having another play. Last time I'd used filler powder for the mortar but felt it was a little coarse, this time around I've tried out moulding plaster, its primary use being the restoration of picture frames. Its very white, and very fine. The whole wall
On the left hand side the mortar is flush with the brickwork (new), between the windows it is slightly recessed (worn) and almost missing on the right (aged). There is also a patch of 'whitewashed' brickwork, not wholly successful, but shows there might be a bit of promise with some more work.
This photo shows off well the ability of the plaster to take colour - too ruddy well really!
The brickwork is primed, then painted with colours mixed from the Games Workshop range. It may be that the pigment strength is very good in the red, for this seems to have stained the plaster when the surfaces were wiped down. A few wiggly lines have also crept onto the bricks from the laser, any ideas Guv?
A slight recess to the mortar using a cocktail stick came up quite well, it also has the advantage of removing the top layer that has been stained by the paint
A very sharp cocktail stick was used to grind out a fair bit of the mortar for the aged look, this bit has also had some brown and grey weathering powders brushed over the top
There are another three sides to try out techniques and materials on, grouting powder is next on the hit list
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
I'm inclined to agree with you Neil, it does look too perfect. I will brush a few weathering powders on to create some false shadows and see if this breaks up the very regular look. Failing that, I shall have to investigate doing some work on the bricks themselves before priming and painting.
As much as I like the aged brickwork effect, I'm a little concerned that its use is somewhat limited - there can't be that many structures that get too dilapidated when in use - derelict is another matter though. Still, there are three sides to play with - or I'll have to ask the Guv if has any more 'going spare'
As much as I like the aged brickwork effect, I'm a little concerned that its use is somewhat limited - there can't be that many structures that get too dilapidated when in use - derelict is another matter though. Still, there are three sides to play with - or I'll have to ask the Guv if has any more 'going spare'
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
Yeah, when doing the last lot of brickwork, I was more interested in trying out a different material for the mortar, the bricks are just the laser cut them. Next time I'll try not rush the job between phases of my tax return 
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
A new experience for me this week, cleaning up some rapid prototype parts. The parts are destined to become the splashers for a Gauge 3 LNWR 18" Cauliflower Goods engine. The aim of the Project Venture as it is known is to make available a selection of parts that will allow a live steam (or electric) engine to be built without recourse to machine tools - but at the same time have all the parts available to suit those who wish to scratch build part of a loco and just take on board the live steam elements (or just the bodywork etc). My involvement is very small, in fact it was non-existant apart from putting my name down for a full set of parts, but I was voluntered to make a contribution, so this is it.
The photos below show the part completed electric version of the kit built by Ken Cottle. It is based on the drawings for the live steam version and is being used to check that everything fits as it should. There is also a Live Steam version which has had components made direct from the drawings and has got as far as running on air to confirm valve operation etc, whilst the third 'development' model uses all of the machined castings which will be available (up to a running chassis but not yet run on air).
The rapid prototype parts are made from a material called "Objet VeroWhite". They are solid printed up in layers about 16 microns thick, but arrive coated in a water soluble resin which is used to support the parts during printing. It is this resin coating which has a particularly coarse finish and needs removing. The parts as delivered
and a close up to try and show the resin coating
Removing the coating is a bit of a challenge, it is quite stubborn (despite the 'water soluble' in its title), which combined with the fragility of the components makes the whole process a bit delicate and time consuming. The suppliers recommended soaking the parts in a room temperature, 2% solution of caustic powder and water, then using a toothbrush to agitate the resin coating. Whilst in the soft state it can then be removed by scraping -I've been using a selection of blunted craft knife blades, cocktail sticks, sewing needles and a fibreglass brush. The caustic powder solution is certainly more effective than warm water, but the parts have been through the solution three times, in addition to the scraping to get them in a condition ready for paint.
The above photo is the result of about 10 hours work, the finish is much cripser and closer to what is need for them to be used to create the lost wax masters. Since that photo, the parts were given a sanding with 400 grit wet and dry and another soaking and scrub before being shot in a coat of primer. The primer will be used to fill the remaining surface imperfections, I suspect it will need another couple of coats! I'll stick up a shot of the primered bits when the paint has dried, its amazing how much it shows up on what looked to be tidy components after rubbing down.
The photos below show the part completed electric version of the kit built by Ken Cottle. It is based on the drawings for the live steam version and is being used to check that everything fits as it should. There is also a Live Steam version which has had components made direct from the drawings and has got as far as running on air to confirm valve operation etc, whilst the third 'development' model uses all of the machined castings which will be available (up to a running chassis but not yet run on air).
The rapid prototype parts are made from a material called "Objet VeroWhite". They are solid printed up in layers about 16 microns thick, but arrive coated in a water soluble resin which is used to support the parts during printing. It is this resin coating which has a particularly coarse finish and needs removing. The parts as delivered
and a close up to try and show the resin coating
Removing the coating is a bit of a challenge, it is quite stubborn (despite the 'water soluble' in its title), which combined with the fragility of the components makes the whole process a bit delicate and time consuming. The suppliers recommended soaking the parts in a room temperature, 2% solution of caustic powder and water, then using a toothbrush to agitate the resin coating. Whilst in the soft state it can then be removed by scraping -I've been using a selection of blunted craft knife blades, cocktail sticks, sewing needles and a fibreglass brush. The caustic powder solution is certainly more effective than warm water, but the parts have been through the solution three times, in addition to the scraping to get them in a condition ready for paint.
The above photo is the result of about 10 hours work, the finish is much cripser and closer to what is need for them to be used to create the lost wax masters. Since that photo, the parts were given a sanding with 400 grit wet and dry and another soaking and scrub before being shot in a coat of primer. The primer will be used to fill the remaining surface imperfections, I suspect it will need another couple of coats! I'll stick up a shot of the primered bits when the paint has dried, its amazing how much it shows up on what looked to be tidy components after rubbing down.
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
Primer has dried quick enough to allow a couple of quick photos - it needs another 24 hours or so before I can start rubbing down and smoothing the surfaces.
Theres a fair bit of detail included in the parts, unfortunately the spring detail doesn't appear to have come out cleanly in the hangers, shame. Mind you, I do wonder how well the casting process will be able to replicate the subtle recesses etc
Theres a fair bit of detail included in the parts, unfortunately the spring detail doesn't appear to have come out cleanly in the hangers, shame. Mind you, I do wonder how well the casting process will be able to replicate the subtle recesses etc
Nice to see an example of Frankie Webb's finest........sorry chaps but being a Crewe lad, the only colour to paint a real locomotive isn't blue or green but BLACK with a nice bit of grey/red/cream lining 
The detail on the castings is excellent though |I guess very much handle with care........ be interesting to see the method of doing all the rivets on the tender though
The detail on the castings is excellent though |I guess very much handle with care........ be interesting to see the method of doing all the rivets on the tender though
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
The detail on the castings is excellent though |I guess very much handle with care........ be interesting to see the method of doing all the rivets on the tender though
I'm not sure what the approach on that aspect will be either John. The electric mock up that Ken Cottle built has holes drilled individually and brass rod soldered into place - I do not fancy doing the same!
I hope so Adrian, by the time they are cast in brass I reckon we'll be OK
Hi CME
Think you are a bit confused, the loco in the photos isn't mine - it is Ken's and built to prove that the body etchings, chassis design etc are all as per drawings and go together OK. The live steam version (which I will be building) has a set of beautifully made cast iron wheels which include the fixing bolts inside the wheel - but I'll bear your comments in mind when I get round to painting them
Cheers
Steve
28ten
Guv'nor
Steve, one method to pitch the rivets is to laser a template with spot holes for the rivets spray mount it to the brass and to use the usual tool guided by the template.
Ill be interested to see how the castings turn out as I have a list of things to be done once the tech is satisfactory
Ill be interested to see how the castings turn out as I have a list of things to be done once the tech is satisfactory
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
Thats a champion idea Guv, I shall pass it on to the others in the group and see what they say
I'll post a pic up when they are sorted. Come to a halt on the patterns now, any more paint and I'll start to loose the crispness - they are as good as I can get them, the front surfaces are just about perfect and the imperfections in the splashers tops and mounting plates have been largely eliminated. There are a couple of areas I cant really sort easily, but when they are in the brass it will just be a couple of passes with a file so I'll live with that.
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
Meths and internally fired CME
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
Time for a spot of divergence Whilst varous bits of Boomers Wood are drying, I've got a kit out of the stash pile, a Ffestiniog 3rd Class Carriage, No 1
Bought last year from IP Engineering at the 16mm National Show, it cost a bargain basement £10 with wheels included. I've not built up any rolling stock in any scale from wood before so it seemed like a cheap thing to practise on before getting on with the Dingle railcar or the Brandbright coach that are still in the to do pile.
Some work has taken place in this shot, the seat unit has been glued together and the panel overlays stuck on the sides.
A bit of 'Spot the Difference'
Now despite reading the instructions and being very careful to glue the overlay on the right hand side into place, exactly square and central, I commited a large act of muppetry, by forgetting to check it was the right way up
Whats worse, is that both sides were clamped next to each other on a piece of glass and I didn't notice, nor did I clock the mistake when taking the first photo above 
Never mind, recovery was not as painful as it could have been. Half an hours work saw various bits of panelling cut out and glued into the correct place, the door gaps rescribed and filler to cover up lines and gaps were there should be none.
Whilst the gluing and correcting was going on, the ends were gently steamed over a pan of water to help them retain some of the curve that would be required
With the sides and ends in place
Cock ups aside, its been an interesting build and has comfortably filled the 10 minute windows that crop up between other jobs. After its had all night to set up solid, I'll sand the ends to get a smooth profile and attempt to stick the overlays on the right way up
The station building in the background is another 16mm item, again bought at tthe end of the show for a cheap price as a clearance item - its a little large to fit on the existing baseboard structure of the garden line but as it comes with its own base it'll fit somewhere. Its had the front panel glued into place, I have an evening of picking out resin bubbles and filling holes to come...
Steve
Whilst varous bits of Boomers Wood are drying, I've got a kit out of the stash pile, a Ffestiniog 3rd Class Carriage, No 1 Bought last year from IP Engineering at the 16mm National Show, it cost a bargain basement £10 with wheels included. I've not built up any rolling stock in any scale from wood before so it seemed like a cheap thing to practise on before getting on with the Dingle railcar or the Brandbright coach that are still in the to do pile.
Some work has taken place in this shot, the seat unit has been glued together and the panel overlays stuck on the sides.
A bit of 'Spot the Difference'
Now despite reading the instructions and being very careful to glue the overlay on the right hand side into place, exactly square and central, I commited a large act of muppetry, by forgetting to check it was the right way up
Whats worse, is that both sides were clamped next to each other on a piece of glass and I didn't notice, nor did I clock the mistake when taking the first photo above Never mind, recovery was not as painful as it could have been. Half an hours work saw various bits of panelling cut out and glued into the correct place, the door gaps rescribed and filler to cover up lines and gaps were there should be none.Whilst the gluing and correcting was going on, the ends were gently steamed over a pan of water to help them retain some of the curve that would be required
With the sides and ends in place
Cock ups aside, its been an interesting build and has comfortably filled the 10 minute windows that crop up between other jobs. After its had all night to set up solid, I'll sand the ends to get a smooth profile and attempt to stick the overlays on the right way up
The station building in the background is another 16mm item, again bought at tthe end of the show for a cheap price as a clearance item - its a little large to fit on the existing baseboard structure of the garden line but as it comes with its own base it'll fit somewhere. Its had the front panel glued into place, I have an evening of picking out resin bubbles and filling holes to come...
Steve
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
I've been carrying on with the Ffestiniog coach in 10 minute sessions, its an interesting way to build something if not the quickest. A rather rudimentary paint job was put on during April (satin black outside and in, then hand painted white inside and brown for the seats) and the wheels blackened and glued into place this evening. I've got the mesh 'glazing' to spray up tonight ready for trimming down to fit in the apertures at some point. Still undecided what to do roof wise, the kit contains a sheet of plasticard and a couple of wooden formers, but I'm tempted to slice up some planks and do it that way. Heres a shot of it in the garden
Next up is a bit more of a focussed project, ironically for a line I haven't built yet and a loco I don't own I was hoping to get it done in a day, but as usual spent too much time faffing about with the wooden planks - quite why I needed to put a knot in one when its going to be filled with slate I have no idea, but hey, its supposed to be fun
The kit is a DJB Penrhyn Railway Slate Wagon, iron framed rather than wooden. Its an easy kit to build, very little clean and prep, not much soldering and went together pretty much OK. I've added some extra bracing behind the headstocks as the etched floor was a little short and left the headstocks unsupported, scrap etch bent at right angles did the job nicely.
All the bits laid out
And where I'm up to
A good coating of rust is due next, followed by some salt masking and then another coat of primer.
Inspired by Simon's signal masterpiece, I've dragged my MSE kit from the pile and stained the post up in preparation for assembly, there are also some fogmans hut drawings kicking around so basic measurements can be gleaned and a start made on something for the other end of the garden line.
Steve
Next up is a bit more of a focussed project, ironically for a line I haven't built yet and a loco I don't own
I was hoping to get it done in a day, but as usual spent too much time faffing about with the wooden planks - quite why I needed to put a knot in one when its going to be filled with slate I have no idea, but hey, its supposed to be fun The kit is a DJB Penrhyn Railway Slate Wagon, iron framed rather than wooden. Its an easy kit to build, very little clean and prep, not much soldering and went together pretty much OK. I've added some extra bracing behind the headstocks as the etched floor was a little short and left the headstocks unsupported, scrap etch bent at right angles did the job nicely.
All the bits laid out
And where I'm up to
A good coating of rust is due next, followed by some salt masking and then another coat of primer.
Inspired by Simon's signal masterpiece, I've dragged my MSE kit from the pile and stained the post up in preparation for assembly, there are also some fogmans hut drawings kicking around so basic measurements can be gleaned and a start made on something for the other end of the garden line.
Steve
ceejaydee
Western Thunderer
Amongst other things (yes, I know; lots of things) I have a slightly unhealthy love of slate wagons.
I have a couple of Slaters 16mm Dinorwic ones part built and a very tasty etched brass Ffestiniog one too.
Would love to build a Slaters DeWinton to pull them someday
I have a couple of Slaters 16mm Dinorwic ones part built and a very tasty etched brass Ffestiniog one too.
Would love to build a Slaters DeWinton to pull them someday
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
I'm quite partial to a slate wagon too Christopher I'm trying to stick to Penrhyn quarry prototypes, but must confess to being tempted by the Slaters stuff - mind you, thats been going for ages The Dewinton is pretty tasty, I wonder what its like to build...?
Base colour of rust (mix of black, brown, red) stippled into place, needs to dry overnight now before going over with a slighty browner shade mixed with a little pastel.
I'm trying to stick to Penrhyn quarry prototypes, but must confess to being tempted by the Slaters stuff - mind you, thats been going for ages The Dewinton is pretty tasty, I wonder what its like to build...?Base colour of rust (mix of black, brown, red) stippled into place, needs to dry overnight now before going over with a slighty browner shade mixed with a little pastel.