2mm Cookie's 2mm exploits - Painting

[adrian]

the plethora of scales, gauges, etc in 2mm, 4mm and 7mm is driving me bonkers, and so far, I've produced nowt.....at least not in my chosen 7mm scale, simply because I cannot decide what gauge to use, (or combination of gauges, since that seems to be the problem now).

It's simples!
Actually there are no combination of gauges, you have to build to a single standard. The only way to build anything accurately is to build to the correct gauge and in 7mm the only option is ScaleSeven. Anything else is a compromise.

Just opt for ScaleSeven and there is plenty of support here to help, hopefully you are far enough away to avoid the lure of the Heyside narrow gauge!

 

[queensquare]

I'd have to agree with Jordan,(despite dabbling in S7 myself) but, more importantly, there must be a 7mm gauge wars thread somewhere else

 

[Dikitriki]

It's simples!
hopefully you are far enough away to avoid the lure of the Heyside narrow gauge!

Yay! You know you've made a mark when your layout is mentioned in a tone of disapprobrium.

Before anyone jumps to the conclusion that I take the slightest offence at Adrian's comment. I don't, he's right. S7 is the one true way..............unless...........

I do have a very nice S7 loco - a Jinty. I'm not sure what to do with it though. I'm toying with sawing down the spacers and reducing the chassis width, or perhaps buying a new Jinty kit, nicking the chassis components, and selling it on as a kit with a (very good) RTR S7 chassis?

Cheers

Richard

 

[David Long]

Isn't this about 'Cookies 2MM exploits'? Seems to be acquiring the imprint of some size 11 7mm boots on it.

 

[28ten]

I think there is a degree of thread drift here If anybody really wants to discuss O/F vs S7 vs 31.5 vs 31.2 or variations on that theme then a new thread would be appropriate

 

[Dog Star]

Accuracy is one thing - Atmosphere is quite another....
I refer everyone to the latest pic on Phill's Garden Line. Who gives a stuff that it's "Narrow Gauge" (by a whole 1mm, at that!! ) ...??
You can't glue on atmosphere, and it doesn't automatically result from a slavish adherence to a micrometer.....

I just knew that you did "better" than the track-wood-gauge! It is there for all to see, you know what you can and cannot do with a micrometer .

Glue and micrometers do not go together .

 

[28ten]

So what is the accepted way of doing windows in 2mm? I scaled some down and the bars are about 0.1mm I wouldnt even fancy trying to etch that and the laser just leaves a big hole

 

[JimG]

So what is the accepted way of doing windows in 2mm? I scaled some down and the bars are about 0.1mm I wouldnt even fancy trying to etch that and the laser just leaves a big hole

I wondered about N scale windows a while ago when I was going to use some Walthers Cornerstone kits on my American FS160 layout. But the window framing was in moulded plastic and looked oversize even for H0. I thought about cutting fine grooves in clear plastic and filling them with paint then cleaning everything off when the paint has dried to leave a thin line for the window framing. I didn't experiment further since the only clear plastic I had was the Slaters variety and I find that it does not react well to cutting action from blades or Olfa cutters, producing crazing adjacent to the cut. If I could find a clear plastic that wouldn't craze, then I would give that a go.

Jim.

 

[28ten]

Jim, I can confirm that works Another problem sorted for you Cookie....

 

[Neil]

.... I thought about cutting fine grooves in clear plastic and filling them with paint then cleaning everything off when the paint has dried to leave a thin line for the window framing. I didn't experiment further since the only clear plastic I had was the Slaters variety and I find that it does not react well to cutting action from blades or Olfa cutters, producing crazing adjacent to the cut. If I could find a clear plastic that wouldn't craze, then I would give that a go.

Jim.

In the past I've used this technique in 4mm scale with what I believe to be Cobex (it's the stuff my local model shop had in a Javis wrapper) which didn't craze. It came in both 40thou and 20 thou thick sheets. When doing those multi-pane factory windows the thinner stuff could be bent gently along the score lines to give the multifaceted reflections that the real windows often have.

 

[queensquare]

I use etched windows when I can, they can be cut and shut if necessary. Paint them in a slightly subdue colour and they look fine despite being a tad overscale.

If I have to make them I use an Olfa cutter and fill it with paint for the glazing bars. The frames, and sometimes sashes if the building is near the front and justifies the extra work, I do in self-adhesive paper labels. I tend to draw out the windows on paper then lay the plastic sheet over the top which makes marking out much easier. Its worth making several spairs and picking out the best for use, the amount of material used in 2mm is negligable.

To give an idea, the windows on Bath station box are etched, those on Wadebridge island platform building are done using the scribing/paper label method.


Jerry

 

[28ten]

would this be acceptable 2mm standard then? it is what I would use for 1:150 site models but is it finescale enough?

 

[28ten]

I use etched windows when I can, they can be cut and shut if necessary. Paint them in a slightly subdue colour and they look fine despite being a tad overscale.

If I have to make them I use an Olfa cutter and fill it with paint for the glazing bars. The frames, and sometimes sashes if the building is near the front and justifies the extra work, I do in self-adhesive paper labels. I tend to draw out the windows on paper then lay the plastic sheet over the top which makes marking out much easier. Its worth making several spairs and picking out the best for use, the amount of material used in 2mm is negligable.

To give an idea, the windows on Bath station box are etched, those on Wadebridge island platform building are done using the scribing/paper label method.
View attachment 15677
View attachment 15678
Jerry

lovely little models, Wadebridge is doing it for me I must admit the trains side of 2mm doesnt set me on fire, but the scenic and architectural possibilities do. After doing site models at 1:150 there is something fascinating about little world aspect of it, almost like playing god.

 

[queensquare]

Thanks for that. That laser cut stuff is very nice, the planking on the door looks a bit heavy although it could be because it is so much darker. The window frame is certainly acceptable for 2mm in my book. I always chuck a little brown in with the white for window frames to make them less 'loud'. I'd be interested in what architectural stuff is available at 1:150, its close enough to 2mm to be used/adapted.

The Wadebridge buildings (there are others) are for my good friend John Greenwood's layout. He is building what seems like most of North Cornwall in his loft.

I will start a 'Jerry's stuff' thread later as I don't want to hijack Cookies

Jerry

 

[28ten]

This might be a little better in card. this shot is at least 3 times life size.... All the 1:150 stuff is my own for jobs, it tends to be quite basic

 

[JimG]

Jim, I can confirm that works Another problem sorted for you Cookie....

Cynric,

After I had written the previous message I wondered about using a very small engraving cutter in the milling machine to cut the grooves. Then you might be able to contemplate doing more complex windows - like on some Midland station buildings.

I was also wondering if the paint could be persuaded to form a meniscus in the grove to give a bit more relief - that really would be a black art.

Jim.

 

[alcazar]

What about paint applied with a Bob Moore's lining pen? You can get narrow lines with those.

Or thinned paint through a Rotring pen? Actually, wasn't white ink available?

 

[queensquare]

This might be a little better in card. this shot is at least 3 times life size.... All the 1:150 stuff is my own for jobs, it tends to be quite basic

It looks good to me. I find that pretty basic is often perfectly adequate in 2mm where an overall impression is what is required - colour and tone need particular attention. The thing to avoid is anything that is too obviously overscale - best left off in that case as otherwise it just shouts. The standard N gauge Rapido coupling is particularly bad in my oppinion. I build things in a variety of scales and its usually the larger scales that are the most daunting as I can't get away with fudging and suggesting details.

Jerry

 

[queensquare]

What about paint applied with a Bob Moore's lining pen? You can get narrow lines with those.

Or thinned paint through a Rotring pen? Actually, wasn't white ink available?

I've not tried using a lining pen for glazing bars. It could have its uses, my main concern would be how well the paint would adhere to clear plastic.

Jerry

 

[Steve Cook]

Blimey, you lot have had some fun whilst I've been out I'll have a proper read of whats gone on tomorrow, but have a couple of dodgy photos of the first attempts at guttering:





You can tell it needs a bit of adjustment, its just loosely laid in position for the moment. The gutter is 0.7mm in diameter and the mounting brackets 0.2mm wide if that helps gain a sense of the size. The aim tomorrow is to move the gutter up the bargeboard a bit more so it will be a slightly closer fit to the corrugated iron that sits atop the basic roof structure. Fun but very fiddly..
Steve