Church Norton

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
Hi Guys,

Just wondered if anyone has has the same dilemma when it comes to trying to replicate trees. Trees do not seem to scale to well from what I have discovered so far. Any advice or tips would be appreciated, the “ tree “ below is a scale 45’ high... so not exactly a giant redwood...

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cheers,

Martyn.
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
I can't think how I keep on missing some threads, anyway, I've caught up on here today. You've shamed me into putting slimmer drainpipes on my Intentio coal merchant's hut ha ha. I wondered where the ballast hoppers came from on your post from last March and am keeping my fingers crossed they are not from kits... ;)
 

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
You've shamed me into putting slimmer drainpipes on my Intentio coal merchant's hut ha ha. I wondered where the ballast hoppers came from on your post from last March and am keeping my fingers crossed they are not from kits... ;)

Hi Larry,

That’s great to know someone actually noticed the down pipes on the coal merchants hut :D :thumbs:....

Regarding the coal/ ballast hoppers, they are ready to roll and came from a company called Accurascale. In my opinion they are great value for money and have sprung buffers, couplings and even sprung axleboxes . They do or did have on offer 4 different numbered wagons for around £136 if I remember correctly.

www.accurascale.co.uk

Martyn.
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
Accurascale...... Paul Isles told me he was moving there this month from the big H. I'll check out their website in the hope that ballast hoppers are still in production.

PS EDIT: The coal hoppers are a bit late for my purpose with roller bearing axleboxes.
 
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michael mott

Western Thunderer
Hi Martyn it looks like you are using a hawthorn or similar natural cutting. I would first snip off all the thorns or sharp spiky bits.
next the actual wood looks good , I would then add some filter matting similar to Horse hair (who remembers that) and sparingly attach some strands that have been teased apart. Next give it a spray lightly with some spray adhesive and then sprinkle some green crushed wood shavings (not sawdust)
and then shake off the stuff that does not attach.
I have found that this gives a pretty convincing tree. I will be making a couple for a project in the near future so I will take some pictures of the steps.

Michael
 
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3 LINK

Western Thunderer
Hi Martyn it looks like you are using a hawthorn or similar natural cutting. I would first snip off all the thorns or sharp spiky bits.
next the actual wood looks good , I would then add some filter matting similar to Horse hair (who remembers that) and sparingly attack some strands that have been teased apart. Next give it a spray lightly with some spray adhesive and then sprinkle some green crushed wood shavings (not sawdust)
and then shake off the stuff that does not attach.
I have found that this gives a pretty convincing tree. I will be making a couple for a project in the near future so I will take some pictures of the steps.

Michael

Hi Michael,

Yes the cutting is from a gorse bush, I am just toying with various materials at the moment but nothing comes close to natural cuttings so it seems. The height seems a bit over powering but I think if I “ planted “ a few they would look in keeping with the surroundings.

I look forward to seeing your method up on the forum in the near future :thumbs:.

Martyn.
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
3 Link: It is three months since I last visited this tread and I am beginning to realize it was this layout and Captain Kernow's 'Bethesda Sidings' (and one other whose names eludes me) that planted the seeds for my current BLT in 7mm. The Stanier 8F looks good. I expect large radius curves are essential with kitbuilt locos.
 

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
Hi Larry,

The 8F is a r-t-r from San Cheng, a loco that I have had for around 10+ years. For a 2-8-0 it is quite forgiving when it comes to tight radius’s. On my first layout the 8F would just about tolerate 5’8” . On Church Norton the tightest radius is just under 6 feet so she goes around the layout without problem.

Martyn.
 

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
I have decided to have a break from loco building for a while, and thought I would make a start to building the signal box for Church Norton. The signal box is a typical GWR version from Phil at Intentio, his kits are laser cut MDF and go together with ease, all the corner brickwork is toothed so you get crisp bonded brickwork. There are two shells to build, one interior and the other one has the outer brickwork. With this design it enables you to paint all the interior detail before you finally slide it down permanently into place. There is a rectangular roof ring beam that then goes on to hold it all in place, and locks it all solid. Hopefully the pictures should explain how it all goes together, I will put up further instalments as I go.

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Cheers,

Martyn.
 

BrushType4

Western Thunderer
Martyn, Great start! The rectangular roof beam along with the roof does not need to be glued to the main structure, allowing permanent access to the interior. I've also split the interior into two sections so the bottom and top are now separate items. This makes it a little easier I think to detail the insides.
 
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