Airbrushing.... my journey from Enamels to acrylics... so far

[John TAYLOR]

Hi Steve,

Yes they are good for weathering but they need servicing before you start. If you go on Amazon and look up Fengda FE-130K I`ve done a picture review of what to do. ( they are not solvent proof unless you change one seal, the nozzle one, which I replace with a thin strip of PTFE tape wound round the tiny nozzle)




And polish the needle...............................

You would be better off getting the very capable Gaahleri GHAD 39 which has the floating nozzles and has PTFE seals at all paint contact areas.

Currently £ 44 on Amazon ( sometimes is special offer at £27) and you get spare ptfe seals , lubricant and 0.35 and .05 needles and nozzles, two sizes of cups. Far superior to the Neo.

Actually I cheated a bit on the loco body. The tender was airbrushed with the bd-130 , the loco body with the GHAD 39 Just to compare...

The top one below.................

This has English sub titles but is the only one that has the bd-130 doing fine lines

 

[steve50]

Thanks for that info, the GHAD 39 looks interesting, with 2 needle sizes and spares. I've found the Neo a bit limited with only a 0.32mm needle.

 

[Tim Hale]

Hi,

How do I remedy these ‘patches’ when weathering RTR painted models? The paint was Humbrol, thinned with water, applied with a Cotman 12mm chisel, not an airbrush because I am sensitive to airborne paints.




Tim

 

[paulc]

Hi Tim , i would remove all the paint from the roof with a light sand , make sure to do the whole roof . This will give you a surface that the new paint can bite into .
Then apply undercoat and new paint .

 

[TheSnapper]

I would leave them and just blend them in.
I think they look really good as they are!
Cheers
(Another) Tim

 

[Tim Hale]

I would leave them and just blend them in.
I think they look really good as they are!
Cheers
(Another) Tim

The roof patches are rather fetching and I have absolutely no idea of how to create them, so, they stay as is. Otherwise, just pick out the tie-down hooks in ‘knacked yellow’ and some brake dust around the relevant areas of the underpinnings.

Tim