7mm Gladiator Horwich Mogul

[Lawrence Boul]

What's the plan for the cab?

 

[P A D]

It comes with a Laurie Griffin cast white metal backhead with brass fittings.

 

[Genghis]

It comes with a Laurie Griffin cast white metal backhead with brass fittings.

Actually the backhead was John’s design but the fittings are all Laurie’s.
Dave

 

[LarryG]

It looks to me like thee grey/cream line on the footplate valance was thinner than usual. Applying the red line was awkward seeing as it was immediately under the running plate. Then I ruled on the grey line hoping to get some separation between it and the red line. Obviously, there is a bit more room to play about with in 7mm.

 

[P A D]

I'll be doing it in reverse as the grey and cream lines are in place. I'll make some attempts under the cab with the ruling pen to draw the red line above the cream, but if it looks like it's going to be a mess, I'll clean it off and abort the mission. Pragmatism rules!

 

[P A D]

My attempt at drawing the red line on the running plate valance wasn't all that successful. Unfortunately, the underside of the running plate wasn't smooth enough for work with the ruling pen and even tiny solder residues threw the pen off line. After cleaning off and retrying a number of times I gave up. After the last application I let the paint dry for about 15 mins before cleaning off with a dab of white spirit on a cotton bud. The idea was to remove the red from the grey/cream decal and leave a hint of red above where the valance meets the underside of the running plate. This was only marginally successful, but a suggestion of the red line can be seen. That was yesterday, so today I applied the power code to the cab sides and was then able to give the model a coat of semi dull lacquer with a touch of matt black to take the shine off. Here's what it looks like now.


Next I have to add the glazing, make and paint the backhead and add the plates when I have them.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

PS. I also need to reinstate the long drain pipes to the cylinders. I'd cut them back before realising that locos which still had the twin relief valves in BR days, still had the long drain pipes.

 

[P A D]

After removing the existing pipes I had to drill out the drain valves to accept new pipework. I considered using copper, but as the pipes are so long with no way to anchor at the front end, I thought it would be too vulnerable to knocks and would require constant straightening. I settled on 0.7mm NS wire and having studied images of the set up of the pipes and the drawings in the Wild Swann profile, I repositioned the new pipework to be more prototypical. Here's the left hand set dry fit before trimming and painting.


And the left hand side after fitting and painting. I sprayed the pipes with red oxide primer off the model then fitted and brush painted the copper.





I thought the longer drain pipes would hinder the truck movement, but it's the steps which are the limiting factor to the side play on the curves.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Made a start on the backhead and here's where I've got to so far.


Parts are provided for the original regulator but not the layer type, so that will be made from scratch along with the levers for the firebox doors which are also not included.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Here's the backhead after making and adding the regular rod and the the firehole door levers, as well as fitting the gauges.


And in the cab.


I need to do some touching up here and there in the cab. The glazing and reversing mechanism were fitted before the backhead which just wiggled in. I've left off the whistle valve and operating lever top centre on the backhead, as there was no clearance for putting it in with them on.


Here's a front view after adding the Railtec 3D decals for the smokebox number and shed plate. These really are excellent products that I wished I'd discovered years ago. They are so easy to use and far more realistic than etched versions.


The water capacity plate is an etching from Fox Transfers.


That just leaves the works plates which I've ordered from Diane Carney.




Next will be the Fowler 4P backhead and cab interior painting.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[Dave Holt]

Very nice indeed, Peter.
Crabs might not have been pretty, but they certainly looked purposeful and you've really captured that.
As a matter of interest, on my 4 mm version, I fitted some small clips under the front bottom steps to locate the end of the long cylinder drain pipes. Mind you, it's very easy to forget to disengage them before trying to separate the body from the chassis - no need to guess how I know!
Dave.

 

[P A D]

Many thanks Dave.
Yes, not pretty locomotives but like the Stanier Mogul, they would have been much more pleasing on the eye with a full width tender.

The clips sound like a good idea, but on my model I used 0.7mm NS rod so it's quite robust. Also as the ends of the pipes are orientated horizontally, not vertically as rhe original cast pipes were, they are snug under the bottom of the steps, so not too vulnerable to snagging. I think, like you, if I clipped them I'd forget at some time! On the JLTRT kit, I believe the steps are located on the chassis so the pipes can be soldered to the steps. Which remindes me, I must dirty the pipes.
Cheers,
Peter