4mm Llanfair ....

[paulc]

Hi Larry , lovely job as usual . Can i ask , do you airbrush the sides of the rail or just a brush by hand ?
I ask as i am almost at that point but have never painted the side of the track on previous layouts .
Cheers Paul

 

[LarryG]

Hi Larry , lovely job as usual . Can i ask , do you airbrush the sides of the rail or just a brush by hand ?
I ask as i am almost at that point but have never painted the side of the track on previous layouts .
Cheers Paul

I brush Rusty Rails paint on.

 

[LarryG]

Cork trackbed was cut away between the track and bevelled before gluing ballast to it. Ground 'cover' is grey cellulose brushed on and then weathered with the spraygun while weathering the track. The base of the water tank legs were weathered too...



The bevelled edge to the running line continies around the curve now. Once again, the cess is grey paint weathered with the colour I use on coach and wagon underframes...

 

[Andy P]

Hi Larry You asked about my 4mm Layout, its Bute Road, Cornish based in todays era, its very much work in progress, but here are a couple of shots, with added artist impression of how I want it to look.
In the first, think of Cockwood Harbour in Devon.

 

[NHY 581]

Crikey!

That was a bit bright this morning Andy.

On a positive, at least the loco matches the grass. Quite coordinated in fact.

Rob.

 

[LarryG]

I had two more goes at the ground cover under the water tank before using ballast. It fits in with the rest of the area and keeps the layout looking bright....



One outcome was to use a much lighter grey for the drainage cess and then tint it with rust colour.


Corwen, not a million miles away from the place I am modelling, and an Oswestry-based loco that worked the Llanfyllin branch...

 

[Mike Garwood]

Larry

You can do the ground work on Hengoed anytime...wonderful stuff.

Mike

 

[LarryG]

Okay thanks Mike. It's the spraygun that makes the difference., but carrying the "portable" compressor across the lawn isn't recommended on a regular basis.

I wanted some neat GWR buffer stops, but hit the buffers with one manufacturer only producing 7mm (and why not) while another website left me in the dark as how to place an order. Peco get the business as usual.

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

I wanted some neat GWR buffer stops, but hit the buffers with one manufacturer only producing 7mm (and why not) while another website left me in the dark as how to place an order. Peco get the business as usual.

There's these 4mm scale ones from Wizard Models who have an internet shop

Brass MT247: GWR Buffer Stop Kit (cast brass) - Wizard Models Limited

Whitemetal MT244: GWR Buffer Stop Kit (whitemetal) - Wizard Models Limited

 

[AJC]

There's these 4mm scale ones from Wizard Models who have an internet shop

Brass MT247: GWR Buffer Stop Kit (cast brass) - Wizard Models Limited

Whitemetal MT244: GWR Buffer Stop Kit (whitemetal) - Wizard Models Limited

Those are quite good. A wider selection of GWR types available from Lanarkshire Models: Buffer Stop Kits

Adam

 

[LarryG]

Thanks Dave and Adam. I recognised the Lanarkshire page and so I checked my statements. I had ordered from Lanarkshire models after all. Old age thing...! Sorreee.

 

[LarryG]

Doing bits here and there hardly shows and so I envy those with small dioramas. A cattle dock with its muck spreading tendencies is well placed for growing things. BR had tipped in ballast after attending to the drainage but you can't keep a good grass down...


Bedding in the goods shed...

 

[LarryG]

Fitted point rodding this afternoon to manually activate the turnouts...



Round brass rod was soldered to the point end. The other end was looped and soldered shut. Peco nails are rodding guides...


All nine points activated. The ends at the baseboard edge will be hidden under shallow embankment eventually. Still to be fitted are electrical changeover switches to change frog polarity...

 

[Phil O]

Larry,

Some of our older club layouts used double pole slide switches, with a hole drilled through it to activate the turnout and change the polarity. we started off drilling the hole along the axis of the switch and using BA nuts on the wire to set the turnout throw and then drilled the hole across the switch and introduced a rough and ready omega loop into the actuating wire, at the switch end.

 

[simond]

I’ve seen that before, it works well, and ensures switch and blades Move together.

it fits the KISS philosophy!


Edit due to bluddy smellchequer

 

[LarryG]

I'm past messing around in cold sheds.

 

[simond]

I sympathise. I’m younger, yet have very little motivation to go out to the garage & do stuff this afternoon.

It seems we have autumn already, despite the disappointing lack of summer…

despite which, Phil’s suggestion is a good one.

 

[GrahameH]

I'm past messing around in cold sheds.

Just tuck ya vest in your pants Larry it'll keep your back warm !
(Mother always knew best !!! )

 

[GrahameH]

Time well spent Larry and looking rather atmospheric even without any buildings.

 

[LarryG]

What I found was if track is laid in new clean ballast, it is easily weathered with a spraygun to whatever condition we want afterwards. It's like painting a loco ex works before weathering it. When I think back six years or more to when I used dark brown ballast everywhere, it was small wonder my layouts looked terribly depressing.