3D Printing a Early GWR Wagon Body

[paratom]

I’ve never used Solid Edge but if it has a mirror function that would save you a lot of time if the sides and ends are the same. Looks like the xyz axis point is in the middle of the wagon so you would only have to make one end and side mirroring the sides on the y axis and the ends on the x axis.

 

[King Crab]

Thanks for the kind remark
I am using a Saturn2 8k and the resin is Siraya Tech Fast Navel Gray. I just used the setting download off their web site into Chitubox.

Thanks for the info.
I'm hoping to move up from my primitive filament printer,
so any practical information is welcome.

Peter

 

[Rob R]

Pleased to have seen some of ideas put into practice from Scaleseven North! I have been trying to make loco bodies out of as few pieces as possible at the mo, just for a laugh really but this is the latest one piece print. Also using a Saturn 2 and Siraya Tec Fast resin, printed at 0.03 layers. The tender is from five parts. The loco has full, non-working inside motion also! Cheers, Ian View attachment 180703

That looks fantastic Ian. Any chance of a screenshot of your slicer for this print?

 

[Rob R]

Thank you.
It's nice to see how others do it.

 

[GrahamMc]

Solid Edge but if it has a mirror function

It does. In practice you only need to make half of one side and half of one end, mirror those to get an end and a side and assemble your four parts, or make up some standard items, ie corner plates, washer plates etc and assemble. Assemblies can be mirrored as well, you just have to plan your sketch around the planes.

 

[JimG]

I’ve never used Solid Edge but if it has a mirror function that would save you a lot of time if the sides and ends are the same. Looks like the xyz axis point is in the middle of the wagon so you would only have to make one end and side mirroring the sides on the y axis and the ends on the x axis.

Yes, it does have a "Mirror" function and I've used it on other wagons I have drawn since. The Caledonian four planker was the first I attempted using individual planks and the Assembly method and I was using pretty basic operations to see how things proceeded.

 

[paratom]

And the cab has detail too. The tender base with springs is one piece, body another, tank top another, two toolboxes and a filler. Oh that is 6 not 5! Anyway, just building a chassis for them at the moment. Designed with a Slaters gearbox to fit.View attachment 180704

That’s an impressive 3D print, I doubt Shapeways could deliver such results and deliver it with all the delicate bits intact. I’m amazed you were able to remove all the supports from the delicate parts without damaging them. What will be interest to see is if they all keep their form and not warp. Of cause one of the disadvantages of 3D prints is the choice of paints you use on the model. I like to use cellulose as I believe it gives the best finish and haven’t experimented with it on 3D prints but I suspect it wouldn’t take kindly to the paint.

 

[Pencarrow]

And the cab has detail too. The tender base with springs is one piece, body another, tank top another, two toolboxes and a filler. Oh that is 6 not 5! Anyway, just building a chassis for them at the moment. Designed with a Slaters gearbox to fit.View attachment 180704

Amazing what you can get out of a 3d printer these days (with persistence).

One query I do have relates to the durability of the finished loco body. I must admit that I'd be scared to touch or lift the finished model for fear of breaking off the finer detail.

Would certainly elements such as the handrails, safety valves, springs, cab side and front sheets be less prone to breakage if fabricated from brass?

 

[paratom]

Amazing what you can get out of a 3d printer these days (with persistence).

One query I do have relates to the durability of the finished loco body. I must admit that I'd be scared to touch or lift the finished model for fear of breaking off the finer detail.

Would certainly elements such as the handrails, safety valves, springs, cab side and front sheets be less prone to breakage if fabricated from brass?

Agree I would personally use brass on some of those finer details. I couldn’t imagine them lasting a long time if the loco is being handled. For the handrail post if your lucky you can find a match for them using clock makers tapered pins from Cousins UK or Cooksongold.

 

[Dog Star]

Much of the recent posts to this topic are, in my opinion, more appropriate to this other WT topic "3D printing - what to buy - how to use it"... can Ian (@ICH60) ask Adrian (@adrian) to move those posts?

thank you, Graham

 

[ICH60]

Much of the recent posts to this topic are, in my opinion, more appropriate to this other WT topic "3D printing - what to buy - how to use it"... can Ian (@ICH60) ask Adrian (@adrian) to move those posts?

thank you, Graham

Graham.
I have no strong feelings about this But I am happy if Adrian can move them if that what feels more appropriate.

Ian

 

[ianlbsc]

Much of the recent posts to this topic are, in my opinion, more appropriate to this other WT topic "3D printing - what to buy - how to use it"... can Ian (@ICH60) ask Adrian (@adrian) to move those posts?

thank you, Graham

I have removed mine. Cheers, Ian Mac

 

[ICH60]

Ian,
good to see a second one planker in captivity; very impressive. The other one in the Brokenborough stock box, built in Kuwait while not aviating. Are you going to do a bulb section underframe wagon?
Simon

Hi Simon Just had a few days in York Search Engine and found some interesting plans which show bulb section underframes. So the answer is yes but do not hold your breath.

 

[SimonT]

Ian,
excellent. I found my ancient A3 photocopy of one of the wagons a week or so ago. I still have all the CAD from those years.
A few days in York implies Mucky Duck, etc!

 

[Dog Star]

A few days in York implies Mucky Duck, etc!

We neither drank nor ate in that establishment.....

 

[SimonT]

Well it would have been a pickled egg for tea if you had!