P A D
Western Thunderer
Well I'm back and I've really gone off the rails. First of all I've done something I never thought I'd do, i.e. I've gone and bought a ready to run locomotive. Not only is it RTR, but it's also G guage, so yes, I've completely lost the plot!
After finishing the BR86 I was looking for something to do on my makeshift bench in the garage and after much googling, came across the Piko BR64, running on G gauge (45mm) track. Not only is it a very big model, it is also very well detailed and even with the compromises made in the chassis design to allow it to run around 60cm radius curves, it does look the part (mostly). Plus, it is listed on the Piko website for only 650 euros for the analogue version with smoke, but can be bought new for around £550. I bought mine second hand for much less than that, including Massoth DCC and sound.
I don't have a large enough garden to build a circuit with reasonable curves and running through 60 cm curves with the pony trucks out beyond the buffers doesn't appeal, so my intention is to build an end to end line down the longest wall, but that will be for next year and subject to planning permission from the household management. With that in mind, I could remove the toy couplings and add further detail to an already impressive model.
The first 4 images down loaded from the internet shows how it comes. Most of the body detail is separately applied, but with some of the smaller pipe runs moulded. As supplied from new, several details are provided for fitting at the owner's discretion to suit the curves it will be negotiating (piston tail rods, rear ladders) and some to avoid damage in transit (handwheels on the steam domes and grab irons on the front upper platforms). There are no front steps, guard irons, sand pipes or brake cross beams on the chassis and the buffer beams are devoid of brake hoses, steam heating coupling and screw couplings. The driving wheels are nicely represented and have stainless steel rims with a traction tyre on the middle one. Plunger pick ups are fitted to all driving wheels, supplemented with wiper shoes between the first and middle wheels.
The bag of parts includes two spare buffer beams with single central buffers for use with narrow gauge stock and the rear one is in place in this image.
Rather strangely, the wheel centres and chassis are painted in a darker red shade than the other red parts, which look pretty close to RAL3000.
To get it around 60cm curves Piko, have articulated the chassis. The front section (which pivots slightly) includes the Buhler 7 pole motor driving both axles, with a cardan shaft driving the third pair at the rear.
Here are some views after my modifications. In all I made over 60 changes/additions, the most noticeable being the removal of the tension lock couplings and the addition of guard irons, steps and grab rails to a detachable plate screwed under the buffers. Removing the tension lock couplings also involves cutting off the mounting arm from the trucks and burns the bridges should I ever need it to negotiate tight curves or sell it on. Therefore, I purchased two spare trucks (no couplings or wheels) , so that with the removal of the piston tail rods (push fit only), sub sections under the buffer beams and scale couplings, it can be returned to " toy curve" mode.
Most of the additions are made from scratch and in the main fitted with super glue. The exceptions being the electric light sockets and plugs at the front and the screw couplings, which were sourced from outlets in Germany. Thank God for the internet, where you can find almost anything.
The exception to the use of super glue, were one or two parts attached with epoxy and the front and rear subsection which were made from brass and soldered. I don't have my Hakko solder station at home, but my 25 watt antex was up to the job. The wheels and everything else were repainted in RAL3000 mixed up from Tamiya acrylics.
I'm quite pleased with the results and from the side I think it stands up pretty well to the Spur 0 and Spur 1 RTR models at a fraction of the cost. Here are some views after weathering. The buffer stocks were too short and unfortunately the joints at the extensions added to increase the length are highlighted by the weathering.
Although the driving wheels are nicely represented, they lacked the centre boss detail as did the leading and trailing wheels. This was added with overlays of 10 thou plasticard glued in place. The pony wheels only have 8 spokes when the most common number was 9 and sometimes 7. Disc wheels were also fitted, sometimes in combination with spoked wheels.
All the signage and plates are nicely printed, but I've got some etched ones on order from Beckert Modelbau for the BD, Bw, DB, works and number plates. I'll overspray them with some dirty thinners to tone them down before fitting.
Although I have all the information on the cab interior to be able to model that as well, I've decided to pass on that. The track it's sitting on is Piko and is extremely heavy compared to a length of 0 gauge track and is somewhat on the tall side. I understand it stems from when LGB first started G gauge, as they wanted the track to be bullet proof to avoid damage by dozy modellers stepping on it! I believe there are finer options available and I will look into that before I take the plunge and build a railway. The model is also very heavy (over 7lb) and a sod to pick up and handle. I'll post some close up photos later.
Cheers,
Peter
After finishing the BR86 I was looking for something to do on my makeshift bench in the garage and after much googling, came across the Piko BR64, running on G gauge (45mm) track. Not only is it a very big model, it is also very well detailed and even with the compromises made in the chassis design to allow it to run around 60cm radius curves, it does look the part (mostly). Plus, it is listed on the Piko website for only 650 euros for the analogue version with smoke, but can be bought new for around £550. I bought mine second hand for much less than that, including Massoth DCC and sound.
I don't have a large enough garden to build a circuit with reasonable curves and running through 60 cm curves with the pony trucks out beyond the buffers doesn't appeal, so my intention is to build an end to end line down the longest wall, but that will be for next year and subject to planning permission from the household management. With that in mind, I could remove the toy couplings and add further detail to an already impressive model.
The first 4 images down loaded from the internet shows how it comes. Most of the body detail is separately applied, but with some of the smaller pipe runs moulded. As supplied from new, several details are provided for fitting at the owner's discretion to suit the curves it will be negotiating (piston tail rods, rear ladders) and some to avoid damage in transit (handwheels on the steam domes and grab irons on the front upper platforms). There are no front steps, guard irons, sand pipes or brake cross beams on the chassis and the buffer beams are devoid of brake hoses, steam heating coupling and screw couplings. The driving wheels are nicely represented and have stainless steel rims with a traction tyre on the middle one. Plunger pick ups are fitted to all driving wheels, supplemented with wiper shoes between the first and middle wheels.
The bag of parts includes two spare buffer beams with single central buffers for use with narrow gauge stock and the rear one is in place in this image.
Rather strangely, the wheel centres and chassis are painted in a darker red shade than the other red parts, which look pretty close to RAL3000.
To get it around 60cm curves Piko, have articulated the chassis. The front section (which pivots slightly) includes the Buhler 7 pole motor driving both axles, with a cardan shaft driving the third pair at the rear.
Here are some views after my modifications. In all I made over 60 changes/additions, the most noticeable being the removal of the tension lock couplings and the addition of guard irons, steps and grab rails to a detachable plate screwed under the buffers. Removing the tension lock couplings also involves cutting off the mounting arm from the trucks and burns the bridges should I ever need it to negotiate tight curves or sell it on. Therefore, I purchased two spare trucks (no couplings or wheels) , so that with the removal of the piston tail rods (push fit only), sub sections under the buffer beams and scale couplings, it can be returned to " toy curve" mode.
Most of the additions are made from scratch and in the main fitted with super glue. The exceptions being the electric light sockets and plugs at the front and the screw couplings, which were sourced from outlets in Germany. Thank God for the internet, where you can find almost anything.
The exception to the use of super glue, were one or two parts attached with epoxy and the front and rear subsection which were made from brass and soldered. I don't have my Hakko solder station at home, but my 25 watt antex was up to the job. The wheels and everything else were repainted in RAL3000 mixed up from Tamiya acrylics.
I'm quite pleased with the results and from the side I think it stands up pretty well to the Spur 0 and Spur 1 RTR models at a fraction of the cost. Here are some views after weathering. The buffer stocks were too short and unfortunately the joints at the extensions added to increase the length are highlighted by the weathering.
Although the driving wheels are nicely represented, they lacked the centre boss detail as did the leading and trailing wheels. This was added with overlays of 10 thou plasticard glued in place. The pony wheels only have 8 spokes when the most common number was 9 and sometimes 7. Disc wheels were also fitted, sometimes in combination with spoked wheels.
All the signage and plates are nicely printed, but I've got some etched ones on order from Beckert Modelbau for the BD, Bw, DB, works and number plates. I'll overspray them with some dirty thinners to tone them down before fitting.
Although I have all the information on the cab interior to be able to model that as well, I've decided to pass on that. The track it's sitting on is Piko and is extremely heavy compared to a length of 0 gauge track and is somewhat on the tall side. I understand it stems from when LGB first started G gauge, as they wanted the track to be bullet proof to avoid damage by dozy modellers stepping on it! I believe there are finer options available and I will look into that before I take the plunge and build a railway. The model is also very heavy (over 7lb) and a sod to pick up and handle. I'll post some close up photos later.
Cheers,
Peter
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