Yorky D's Küchentisch - Purists look away now.....

Weighbridge and Footbridge

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Those plans for the Weighbridge hut are incorrect. The roof pitch in the drawings doesn't represent the actual building. Philip says in the article that a roof pitch of 50degress is unusual. He is right, because the roof pitch isn't!

Thanks for this snippet. I picked up the mag for the two photos - especially the one showing the rear.

Would the fireplace have been at 45 deg in the corner of the room?
 

BrushType4

Western Thunderer
Thanks for this snippet. I picked up the mag for the two photos - especially the one showing the rear.

Would the fireplace have been at 45 deg in the corner of the room?
Not sure, but seems to make sense as that is where the chimney is. The fireplace is designed to fit at 45deg into the corner. I’ve another picture somewhere from above and I couldn’t see any evidence of the chimney coming from a central fireplace.
 
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Overseer

Western Thunderer
This is a mixture of laser cut MDF for the supports and Trotec acrylic for the sides and steps. I've never come across Trotec before and it'll be interesting working with this and finding out what sticks it together.
View attachment 90296
..
Not sure if your Trotec is the same as the Trotec Trolase I have. Real MEK works well for me, a bit slower acting than on styrene. I buy MEK in half litre bottles from plumbing suppliers, it is used as a primer for PVC pipe joints - make sure you get the clear version not the red stained one.
 

BrushType4

Western Thunderer
Not sure if your Trotec is the same as the Trotec Trolase I have. Real MEK works well for me, a bit slower acting than on styrene. I buy MEK in half litre bottles from plumbing suppliers, it is used as a primer for PVC pipe joints - make sure you get the clear version not the red stained one.
The very same.
 

JimG

Western Thunderer
Hmm, one wonders (or assumes?) whether that's the same Philip Millard who was one-time purveyor of all things 0-gauge...?

More accurately, 7mm FS. I don't think he got round to dealing in Scale7, or even talking about it in measured terms. :):):):)

Jim.
 
Weighbridge and Footbridge

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
A start has been made on the weighbridge.

The outer shell - a relatively simple construction with the four pieces interlocking. Thinned PVA was run into the four inner corners and then left to set after ensuring all was square.
BW 04.jpg
BW 05.jpg
The inner shell - again a simple construction following the same process as above.
BW 07.jpg

The two plinths were glued together and the steps 'worn'.
BW 06.jpg
A painting test for the brick colours carried out. Vallejo acrylic paints and varnishes and pigments from Ammo by Mig Jimenez are used throughout.
BW 08.jpg

The cream bricks are a mixture of buff and white acrylics. The white removes the intensity of the buff and I sparingly mixed in a tad of light rust just to add a bit of variation (just noticeable towards the bottom right).

The blue engineers bricks started with a base coat of black/grey followed by a wash of dark blue. Once dry the side was given a coat of satin varnish. This is to seal the paint and leave a slightly glazed sheen to the brickwork.

The mortar is a mixture of dark grey and concrete pigments mixed into a paste with water. This was painted onto the central section as seen. After drying it was removed with a slightly damp cloth leaving the mortar behind (a patch has been left to show pigment mix as applied). This does not remove it completely from the brickwork but leaves sufficient to give the appearance of some weathering.
 
Weighbridge and Footbridge

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Carrying on with the build the next step was to paint the base and steps a sort of concrete colour with a black and brown wash applied. This will provide the base on which the final weathering will be applied once the weighbridge is complete.

BW 09.jpg

This is the inner carcass on the base and the door painted black (in deference to the Rolling Stones it wasn't initially red). BW 10.jpg

The cream and engineering blue applied, sealed with satin varnish. Once dry the mortar mix was applied and wiped off when dry.BW 11.jpg
BW 12.jpg

Close up of the front window sill. Here I rounded the corners before installation. BW 13.jpg

Onto the end window which was added during the building's life as it did not exist when built. This is as cut and provided in the kit.
BW 17.jpg

This shows the teaks I carried out the the end window lintel to match the the photograph.
BW 14.jpg

The original of the above.
BW 14a.jpg

And finally the chimney. Again this was a relatively simple construction with the four sides locking an internal cap (the cross shaped piece below the chimney). The brick embellishments are the five rectangular pieces at the bottom of the photograph.
BW 16.jpg
Painted and it still requires the cap and pot.
BW 15.jpg
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Carrying on with the build the next step was to paint the base and steps a sort of concrete colour with a black and brown wash applied. This will provide the base on which the final weathering will be applied once the weighbridge is complete.

View attachment 90465

This is the inner carcass on the base and the door painted black (in deference to the Rolling Stones it wasn't initially red). View attachment 90466

The cream and engineering blue applied, sealed with satin varnish. Once dry the mortar mix was applied and wiped off when dry.View attachment 90467
View attachment 90468

Close up of the front window sill. Here I rounded the corners before installation. View attachment 90469

Onto the end window which was added during the building's life as it did not exist when built. This is as cut and provided in the kit.
View attachment 90479

This shows the teaks I carried out the the end window lintel to match the the photograph.
View attachment 90470

The original of the above.
View attachment 90471

And finally the chimney. Again this was a relatively simple construction with the four sides locking an internal cap (the cross shaped piece below the chimney). The brick embellishments are the five rectangular pieces at the bottom of the photograph.
View attachment 90478
Painted and it still requires the cap and pot.
View attachment 90472

Love the concrete colour and texture, Dave. May I enquire of your methods?

Regards,

Jonte
 
Weighbridge and Footbridge

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Hi Jonte

As requested.

These are the basic colours I use for pre-war and 1950-60's concrete. The grey smooth concrete seen today is a more appears less common during the period I'm depicting.
WB 1.jpg

These are the washes and colours used later in the process. WB 2.jpg

The palette. I tend to mix up the main concrete colour with Middlestone and Buff and randomly add a touch of Stone Grey and White to vary the tone. There's no hard and fast mixing ratio - I just mix the colours until it looks right to me.WB 3.jpg

This is the basic colour applied to MDF and on a piece of rough card. WB 4.jpg

Once dry I apply a wash. This may vary depending on the effect I'm after. Here I have used Oxide, none and a Brown wash.WB 5.jpg

I then wiped the excess off WB 6.jpg

Then I drybrushed a mix of Buff, Stone Grey and a touch of Yellowish Rust. The latter gives a slighly pink effect some concretes have. In some cases I will apply a further Grey/Brown wash to simulate the dirt into the lower areas.
WB 7.jpg

Having seen the effect on the rough card I may end up using this for hard standing areas and the linear effects almost replicate hand tamped concrete where a length of wood has been used as a float.
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Hi Jonte

As requested.

These are the basic colours I use for pre-war and 1950-60's concrete. The grey smooth concrete seen today is a more appears less common during the period I'm depicting.
View attachment 90525

These are the washes and colours used later in the process. View attachment 90526

The palette. I tend to mix up the main concrete colour with Middlestone and Buff and randomly add a touch of Stone Grey and White to vary the tone. There's no hard and fast mixing ratio - I just mix the colours until it looks right to me.View attachment 90527

This is the basic colour applied to MDF and on a piece of rough card. View attachment 90528

Once dry I apply a wash. This may vary depending on the effect I'm after. Here I have used Oxide, none and a Brown wash.View attachment 90529

I then wiped the excess off View attachment 90530

Then I drybrushed a mix of Buff, Stone Grey and a touch of Yellowish Rust. The latter gives a slighly pink effect some concretes have. In some cases I will apply a further Grey/Brown wash to simulate the dirt into the lower areas.
View attachment 90531

Having seen the effect on the rough card I may end up using this for hard standing areas and the linear effects almost replicate hand tamped concrete where a length of wood has been used as a float.

Dave

Extremely kind of you to go to such lengths to demonstrate your excellent technique.

I am deeply grateful.

This is art not just scenic modelling. I’m privileged.

Thank you.

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
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