Welshwizards Models
- Thread starter welshwizard
- Start date
Simon
Flying Squad
Pedigree Pekinese or 1/35 characters to inhabit your growing housing estate?
welshwizard
Western Thunderer
Colin.
Don't know how you feel but white aliways looks contrived to me and i end up pushing it right back into the weathering colours after i have applied it above them.
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Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
Oh yes Fred, I always work it in and never use it neat at any rate.
On the F3, above, I had added a spot of black to the white oxide to tone it down before dry brushing it, but then I used some more grime on top after so it gives the effect of grinning through from under succesive coats of dirt.
ATB, Col
welshwizard
Western Thunderer
Looking to get texture like that Colin, is it succesive coats of enamels to build it up to that thick body coating ?
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
You got it Fred, good old Humbrol mixes, there is some cutting back in areas. The soot on top surfaces is matt black and depending on how heavy I want it I will use some powder whilst the paints still wet, bit like sprinkling castor sugar on a cake.
I find that weathering a loco or any other stock for that matter is a bit suck it and see (said the Bishop to the Actress) I'm constantly standing back and looking at it( yeah, there's another joke in there somwhere) before deciding what to do next, adjusting the mix or application etc. A bit more art and a little less modelmaking is how I look at it.
ATB, Col.
Purple-haze
Western Thunderer
Slightly OT, but for anyone interested, David Shepard is exhibiting at Bristol (not sure where but probably West of England academy) his personal collection of originals,for what I belive is only its third time.It's on for about a fortnight.
regards
Rog
regards
Rog
welshwizard
Western Thunderer
Colin, i burnish the finnished weathering coats with flat edged brushes which as you will know on passanger engines gives the impression of cleaning the loco and gives a bit of a sheen with the metalcoat gunmetal. I do not want this on fright loco's and want the effect you have reached but the surface becomes very dusty and open to smudges and of course customers fingers, is your finnish like this ?.You got it Fred, good old Humbrol mixes, there is some cutting back in areas. The soot on top surfaces is matt black and depending on how heavy I want it I will use some powder whilst the paints still wet, bit like sprinkling castor sugar on a cake.
I find that weathering a loco or any other stock for that matter is a bit suck it and see (said the Bishop to the Actress) I'm constantly standing back and looking at it( yeah, there's another joke in there somwhere) before deciding what to do next, adjusting the mix or application etc. A bit more art and a little less modelmaking is how I look at it.
ATB, Col.
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
I think that maintaining that flat grimy finish is difficult, it is a dusty sort of finish, but there's no way of coating it succesfuly and not ruining the finish as far as I know. Certainly matt varnish/laquer will not work as it still seems to have a slight sheen (unless I have a crap product), I always handle stock with gloves (powder free) and then never by the main part of the body.
I think customers need a little educating sometimes as to how to handle their stock.
There's always the danger of finger prints and smudges again thats down too how it's handled.
Something I think we need to experiment more with Fred is finding a protective coating for this type of finish. I have not yet tried using acrylics for large surface areas such as this for as you know you can't cut back if the need arises and it's made me shy away from trying, acrylic may look as flat and have the right texture we are looking for but it's a bugger if we need to change it while applying, if that makes sense
Col
I think customers need a little educating sometimes as to how to handle their stock.
There's always the danger of finger prints and smudges again thats down too how it's handled.
Something I think we need to experiment more with Fred is finding a protective coating for this type of finish. I have not yet tried using acrylics for large surface areas such as this for as you know you can't cut back if the need arises and it's made me shy away from trying, acrylic may look as flat and have the right texture we are looking for but it's a bugger if we need to change it while applying, if that makes sense
Col
welshwizard
Western Thunderer
Yes i agree with that Colin any atempt at covering the work with a varnish or the like just seems to take it back to the strogest base colour, ive even tried hair laquor and artists covering but it has the same efect
.
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Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
I have ruined a nice weathering job by adding a coat of varnishYes i agree with that Colin any atempt at covering the work with a varnish or the like just seems to take it back to the strogest base colour, ive even tried hair laquor and artists covering but it has the same efect
.............I'm told brush painting Slaters Mek over the varnish improves matters?, but I haven't had the courage to try it yet 
Buckjumper
Flying Squad
Varnish *shivers* ugh. I tried goodness knows how many types over the years and never liked one. However, I have found a true matt varnish in a can - Vallejo Acrylic Barniz Varnish, and blimey it's good, but can be difficult to source. After a couple of days you can even use enamels over it. It was suggested by Paul Marshall Potter here.
I've not tried it over a heavy weathering, but I'm loathe to do so anyway - even the grimiest of jobs have little areas that aren't dead matt, and like Fred I'm concerned that it will still take it back to the strongest base colour anyway. Next time I'm doing a heavy weathering I'll do a test piece and try the Vallejo varnish over the top then post results on the forum.
There's a lot to be said for only handling stock with powder-free gloves. A box of a hundred is under a fiver on fleabay - and if they help protect a model that's worth much more than that in either time or money, then it's worth it.
I've not tried it over a heavy weathering, but I'm loathe to do so anyway - even the grimiest of jobs have little areas that aren't dead matt, and like Fred I'm concerned that it will still take it back to the strongest base colour anyway. Next time I'm doing a heavy weathering I'll do a test piece and try the Vallejo varnish over the top then post results on the forum.
There's a lot to be said for only handling stock with powder-free gloves. A box of a hundred is under a fiver on fleabay - and if they help protect a model that's worth much more than that in either time or money, then it's worth it.
Buckjumper
Flying Squad
No I've not tried that, but will buy some and give it a whirl.
Old Buffer
Western Thunderer
Fred,
I don't know your second name but is it you that was elected area 12 rep for the GOG at the Bristol do today, if it is congrats, if not please ignore.
Alan
I don't know your second name but is it you that was elected area 12 rep for the GOG at the Bristol do today, if it is congrats, if not please ignore.
Alan
welshwizard
Western Thunderer
Alan.
Many thanks its Lewis and yes it was me.
Many thanks its Lewis and yes it was me.
welshwizard
Western Thunderer
Thanks Mike.
welshwizard
Western Thunderer
I think that maintaining that flat grimy finish is difficult, it is a dusty sort of finish, but there's no way of coating it succesfuly and not ruining the finish as far as I know. Certainly matt varnish/laquer will not work as it still seems to have a slight sheen (unless I have a crap product), I always handle stock with gloves (powder free) and then never by the main part of the body.
I think customers need a little educating sometimes as to how to handle their stock.
There's always the danger of finger prints and smudges again thats down too how it's handled.
Something I think we need to experiment more with Fred is finding a protective coating for this type of finish. I have not yet tried using acrylics for large surface areas such as this for as you know you can't cut back if the need arises and it's made me shy away from trying, acrylic may look as flat and have the right texture we are looking for but it's a bugger if we need to change it while applying, if that makes sense
Col
colin want you to look for a humbrol colour the next time you are out its called clear coat number 1322, it is brilliant for coupling rods and motion. Martyn Welsh was showing it me yesterday he said it was cellulose based and did smell like it but he had been thining it with cellulose or using the brush in it but it was a lovely oily rod finnish.