Spitfire2865
Western Thunderer
I cant see why they wouldnt use the same hardware. The bolt would be the same size so I doubt theyd have a special nut specifically for the staple.
SER Stepped End Wagon
- Thread starter Jon Nazareth
- Start date
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Trevor
That's what I would have thought. In the case of this wagon, the horse hook covers two holes and if a smaller bolt was used, it would, I think, weaken the fixing.
Jon
That's what I would have thought. In the case of this wagon, the horse hook covers two holes and if a smaller bolt was used, it would, I think, weaken the fixing.
Jon
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Here are the SER transfers from Fox's. Now that I have counted them, I see that I have enough for twelve wagons so, if anyone wants a set of these transfers, I am willing to sell them for £4 a set inc. postage. Anyone interested then please send me a private email.
Jon
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
The top fixings on the W iron pass through the cant(?) rail and sole bar. My original thinking was to spot these from the W iron and then use dummy nuts. But, I found some styrene of the correct size that would act as a spacer between the dummy cant( I think that's what it's called) rail, and the sole bar and so, I fixed it in place. I started to think that this may be a way of keeping the body separate from the frame and so, I spotted the holes right through the dummy cant rail and to my great surprise, all of the holes lined up with those that were already drilled in the sole bar/W iron! I'm going to make up the styrene ends but nothing will be fixed until the hinges and strap etches arrive when they will be drilled and fixed in place while the ends and sides are still in the flat, so to speak.
The new brass W irons that Jamie cut for me, thank you Jamie, are plain to see but so are the holes where the earlier W irons were fixed. I did plug and fill these so, fingers crossed that they won't show up once the whole has been painted.
Jon
Spitfire2865
Western Thunderer
I believe the term is curb rail. I think cant rail is higher up on a covered body.
Oddly they tended to be not directly connected to the solebar, having spacers between them. Not sure why.
The wagon is coming along nicely. Ive not seen axleguards bolted through the curbrail, Only behind.
Are the holes in the headstocks for safety chains?
Oddly they tended to be not directly connected to the solebar, having spacers between them. Not sure why.
The wagon is coming along nicely. Ive not seen axleguards bolted through the curbrail, Only behind.
Are the holes in the headstocks for safety chains?
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Trevor
Ah, so that's what it's called
. If you look at the drawing on page 1, you can see the fixings through the curb rail. This method of fixing is also shown on the two original drawings that I have. Yes, the holes in the headstocks are for safety chains. They are shown as blackened items in one of the pictures also on page 1.
Its a shame that Slaters don't supply 3'-1" mansells as these are the type of wheel originally used.
Jon
Ah, so that's what it's called
. If you look at the drawing on page 1, you can see the fixings through the curb rail. This method of fixing is also shown on the two original drawings that I have. Yes, the holes in the headstocks are for safety chains. They are shown as blackened items in one of the pictures also on page 1.Its a shame that Slaters don't supply 3'-1" mansells as these are the type of wheel originally used.
Jon
geoff_nicholls
Western Thunderer
You can see the gap between the curb rail and the solebar on this Williams Models LBSC open wagon. I think it is there because the wagon body evolved to become wider, but the solebar width is fixed by the track gauge. The curb rail is deeper than the thickness of the floor planks, hence the gap. Some railways, eg the LNWR, filled that gap The Gloucester 5 plank opens which had the diagonal strapping on the inside of the side, and the outside of the solebar, were narrower and had the curb rail hard against the solebar.
Mike W
Western Thunderer
"The Gloucester 5 plank opens which had the diagonal strapping on the inside of the side, and the outside of the solebar, were narrower and had the curb rail hard against the solebar."
And the inner face of their solebars was 6ft 1in whereas many railways were still 5ft 11in at that time.
And the inner face of their solebars was 6ft 1in whereas many railways were still 5ft 11in at that time.
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Mike
I've just read in the G3 Newsletter that Walsall are selling 'wood inserts' to convert their carriage wheels into Mansell versions. I'll have to give them a call.
Thinking about the makeup of a Mansell wheel, I don't think tat I could make an overlay myself
Jon
I've just read in the G3 Newsletter that Walsall are selling 'wood inserts' to convert their carriage wheels into Mansell versions. I'll have to give them a call.
Thinking about the makeup of a Mansell wheel, I don't think tat I could make an overlay myself
Jon
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Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Had a look at the Walsall website and couldn't see any overlays for G3 or any other scale.
geoff_nicholls
Western Thunderer
Check out the GRS three hole wagon wheels:
PG700 3 Hole Disc Wheels 42 Dia 4mm Axle 63.5mm | Garden Railway Specialists Tel:01844 345158
The central steel bush is at the same level as the tyre, so you'd need to turn it down on a lathe, or make the cosmetic Mansell overlay as a washershape
PG700 3 Hole Disc Wheels 42 Dia 4mm Axle 63.5mm | Garden Railway Specialists Tel:01844 345158
The central steel bush is at the same level as the tyre, so you'd need to turn it down on a lathe, or make the cosmetic Mansell overlay as a washershape
Mike W
Western Thunderer
Jon, in my experience much of Walsall's range is not on their website, but their wheels are 3ft 7in and you need 3ft 1in. You won't be able to see the centre, so really just need as washer with thin scribe marks for the segments and a ring around the edge with bolts. Too often in models the segments are overdone - the grain is fine and the joins flush, so the lightest touch is needed. If you can build that wagon, you are more than able to make a Mansell overlay!
Spitfire2865
Western Thunderer
What a shame to those who cant go to exhibitions they frequent and rely on internet commerce for hobby support.
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Thanks everyone for your suggestions and as there is quite a way to go before I truly need the wheels, I'll give it some more thought.
Jon
Jon
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
The latest update on wheel overlays is that both Rob Pulman and JimG have offered to make these up for me. There are some nice people out there 
.
Jon
.Jon
Ian@StEnochs
Western Thunderer
I think the discs seen on some Scottish wagon wheels were just thin sheet steel. Their purpose was to prevent the use of ‘sprags’ through the spokes to brake the wagon causing damage to the quite delecate wrought iron spokes. Canny Scots!
Ian.
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
I've made a start on the stepped ends which look surprisingly like the ends of a dolls bed!
. The first picture shows the simple jig that I made to bend the styrene around. I had to use Plastruct which I don't really like as it's sides are slightly concave and the styrene is harder than Evergreen. I had no choice in this case as Evergreen don't make a 4mm x 4mm section.Jon