Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
G scale class 20
We don't just like Blue round here
..........we tolerate green too :laugh:
We don't just like Blue round here
..........we tolerate green too :laugh:
Re: G scale class 20
- Thread starter rjr
- Start date
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
G scale class 20
Oh by the way if anyone couldnt find any blue aerosol at Telford thats because i stocked up :lol:
Rob. :wave:
Yes very true but MAINLY blue :lol:Phill Dyson said:We don't just like Blue round here
Oh by the way if anyone couldnt find any blue aerosol at Telford thats because i stocked up
:lol: Rob. :wave:
G scale class 20
Sorry guys cant be convinced.. As much as I like blue, and green for that matter, I just fancy a change..
The basic colours are now in place, but will need some rework, in particular the red which is still somewhat transparent.
Following the yellow, the next colour up was the Railmatch Grey for the sides, which like the yellow was applied from a rattle can in very thin coats "force" dried with a hair drier, then another coat applied until an even coverage was achieved. The grey went on last night.
This morning the sides were masked a the lighter grey roof was done (actually primer grey) several proto pictures show the livery as having the same grey on the sides as on the roof, but the picture I am working (see previous post) shows the lighter roof.
Early afternoon the red stripe was added with a brush, the black was also applied by brush, both these colours need a bit of tidying up for depth and edges, but I'm not going to push my luck to far, it really needs a chance to all harden of now.
Next job is to work on some "arrows of indecision" for on the sides.
Sorry guys cant be convinced.. As much as I like blue, and green for that matter, I just fancy a change..
The basic colours are now in place, but will need some rework, in particular the red which is still somewhat transparent.
Following the yellow, the next colour up was the Railmatch Grey for the sides, which like the yellow was applied from a rattle can in very thin coats "force" dried with a hair drier, then another coat applied until an even coverage was achieved. The grey went on last night.
This morning the sides were masked a the lighter grey roof was done (actually primer grey) several proto pictures show the livery as having the same grey on the sides as on the roof, but the picture I am working (see previous post) shows the lighter roof.
Early afternoon the red stripe was added with a brush, the black was also applied by brush, both these colours need a bit of tidying up for depth and edges, but I'm not going to push my luck to far, it really needs a chance to all harden of now.
Next job is to work on some "arrows of indecision" for on the sides.
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
G scale class 20
Even for the fact i dont really like the livery, you have done a SUPERB job. Credit where credit's due
Rob :wave:
Even for the fact i dont really like the livery, you have done a SUPERB job. Credit where credit's due
Rob :wave:
G scale class 20
Oh its big !!
Thanks for the comments one of the reasons for the livery is the challenge to do something with lots of masking as its not my favourite thing or in fact something I have done much of. The other reason, as it shares its bogies with the 25 it will never be out at the same time, unlike conventional layouts I dont need to match everything together if I only use one at a time.
This evening I have been playing with a logo, I already had a small version for the 25 which I enlarged to the right size. I then inverted the colours so the bit I wanted was white leaving the background grey. Finally I printed it on some white paper, self adhesive labels.
These were stuck on and given a coat of satin spray varnish to seal them.
John
Oh its big !!
Thanks for the comments one of the reasons for the livery is the challenge to do something with lots of masking as its not my favourite thing or in fact something I have done much of. The other reason, as it shares its bogies with the 25 it will never be out at the same time, unlike conventional layouts I dont need to match everything together if I only use one at a time.
This evening I have been playing with a logo, I already had a small version for the 25 which I enlarged to the right size. I then inverted the colours so the bit I wanted was white leaving the background grey. Finally I printed it on some white paper, self adhesive labels.
These were stuck on and given a coat of satin spray varnish to seal them.
John
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
G scale class 20
Nice work John
Nice work John
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
G scale class 20
Pretty much - I remember the last vestiges of blue, but it seemed terribly boring compared to all of the other modern liveries such as the Railfreight triple grey and Network South East, at the time!Jordan said:(Pugs looks like he's too young to remember it, which is why he thinks Blue was boring... :shock:
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
G scale class 20
It wasn't the colour scheme so much, but the variety of loco's & stock of the earlier era..........even if they were all more or less the same colour :laugh:
Phill :wave:
Pretty much - I remember the last vestiges of blue, but it seemed terribly boring compared to all of the other modern liveries such as the Railfreight triple grey and Network South East, at the time![/quote:2dxmftzs]Pugsley said:[quote=""Jordan"":2dxmftzs]
(Pugs looks like he's too young to remember it, which is why he thinks Blue was boring... :shock:
It wasn't the colour scheme so much, but the variety of loco's & stock of the earlier era..........even if they were all more or less the same colour :laugh:
Phill :wave:
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
G scale class 20
EXELLENT work John
Rob :wave:
EXELLENT work John
Rob :wave:
G scale class 20
Thanks Rob.
When I built my 25, I struggled to come up with a way of cutting plasticard into discs. It had me stumped for days ! and then I came up with a real simple solution... 4pence tooling
Step One
Super glue four 1 pence pieces to a strip of styrene.
Step Two
Using a blade score straight lines round the penny, then with a pair of pliers snap the surplus off. You need to hold the penny to the card.
Step Three
Dress the edge with a file using the penny as a file guide (yes you may damage the penny !)
Step Four
A final tidy with a nail emery board. and the front edge is given a slight rad.
Finally
Flip over and solvent weld a tube on the back, this tube has an Outside diameter the same as the Inside diameter of the one the cab
Then its a push fit onto the body
The inside of the cab has also had a coat of paint to reduce the yellow glow !
Thanks Rob.
When I built my 25, I struggled to come up with a way of cutting plasticard into discs. It had me stumped for days ! and then I came up with a real simple solution... 4pence tooling
Step One
Super glue four 1 pence pieces to a strip of styrene.
Step Two
Using a blade score straight lines round the penny, then with a pair of pliers snap the surplus off. You need to hold the penny to the card.
Step Three
Dress the edge with a file using the penny as a file guide (yes you may damage the penny !)
Step Four
A final tidy with a nail emery board. and the front edge is given a slight rad.
Finally
Flip over and solvent weld a tube on the back, this tube has an Outside diameter the same as the Inside diameter of the one the cab
Then its a push fit onto the body
The inside of the cab has also had a coat of paint to reduce the yellow glow !
G scale class 20
It may not seem like a big job, but it wasn't half fiddly !!
I have applied the orange line round the top, I considered painting it but chickened out. So I stopped off at my local sign makers, and cadged an off cut of orange vinyl tape, its self adhesive and just needed cutting into 1.5mm strips.
Note that Pointing Man has turned up too !!!!
John
It may not seem like a big job, but it wasn't half fiddly !!
I have applied the orange line round the top, I considered painting it but chickened out. So I stopped off at my local sign makers, and cadged an off cut of orange vinyl tape, its self adhesive and just needed cutting into 1.5mm strips.
Note that Pointing Man has turned up too !!!!
John
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
G scale class 20
Hi John,
yet another great model there and one to certainly be proud of.
As far as the lining is concerned, I have been using 'Trim-line' which is self adhesive and really aimed at our aircraft and car cousins. It comes in 8 different widths on one roll about 2.5 metres long for the princely sum of ?2.95 a roll (2009 price) and is available in eight or more colours.
I obtained mine from Blackburn Model Supplies -
http://www.blackburnmodels.com
telephone 01254 265358
Used it for the yellow stripes on the MLV
[attachment=1:2zadj7s3]IMG_1083.JPG[/attachment:2zadj7s3]
[attachment=0:2zadj7s3]IMG_1087-1.JPG[/attachment:2zadj7s3]
regards
Mike
Hi John,
yet another great model there and one to certainly be proud of.
As far as the lining is concerned, I have been using 'Trim-line' which is self adhesive and really aimed at our aircraft and car cousins. It comes in 8 different widths on one roll about 2.5 metres long for the princely sum of ?2.95 a roll (2009 price) and is available in eight or more colours.
I obtained mine from Blackburn Model Supplies -
http://www.blackburnmodels.com
telephone 01254 265358
Used it for the yellow stripes on the MLV
[attachment=1:2zadj7s3]IMG_1083.JPG[/attachment:2zadj7s3]
[attachment=0:2zadj7s3]IMG_1087-1.JPG[/attachment:2zadj7s3]
regards
Mike
Attachments
G scale class 20
Very nice coachwork Mike, I know the "trim line" you mean, my Dad is a keen R/C boat modeller and on occasions hands me his cast offs. Its nice and tnin and easy to work with. I just didnt have any orange to hand hence the cadge from the sign makers.
Jordan: You have already answered the question, Pointing man the magician ... pennies disappearing is no problem compared to a class 20 !!!!
No seriously, once I am happy with the shape of the plastic buffer disc its real easy to pop the penny off by just starting a knife blade in-between the penny and the plastic. I only use a small amount of super glue between the two and to be honest it doesn't take that well to dirt pennies
Very nice coachwork Mike, I know the "trim line" you mean, my Dad is a keen R/C boat modeller and on occasions hands me his cast offs. Its nice and tnin and easy to work with. I just didnt have any orange to hand hence the cadge from the sign makers.
Jordan: You have already answered the question, Pointing man the magician ... pennies disappearing is no problem compared to a class 20 !!!!
No seriously, once I am happy with the shape of the plastic buffer disc its real easy to pop the penny off by just starting a knife blade in-between the penny and the plastic. I only use a small amount of super glue between the two and to be honest it doesn't take that well to dirt pennies
G
Graham Powell
Guest
G scale class 20
I'm not into diesels but that is lovely model. Most impressive. I would like to know what you use for plasticard adhesive as I find that Humbrol Poly makes me ill if I try using plasticard in the workshop. I'm sure they old Mek Pak didn't so perhaps they 've changed the formula.
rgds
Graham Powell
I'm not into diesels but that is lovely model. Most impressive. I would like to know what you use for plasticard adhesive as I find that Humbrol Poly makes me ill if I try using plasticard in the workshop. I'm sure they old Mek Pak didn't so perhaps they 've changed the formula.
rgds
Graham Powell
G scale class 20
Im using EMA Plastic Weld available and my local model shop and many others, I believe the principle chemical is Di-Clhorine
http://www.ema-models.co.uk/products/04 ... nt-ml.html
It is water like cold to the touch like acetone and does have a smell so is best if you dont leave the top off for extended periods, not to mention evaporation costs money
Slowly adding the details, glazing, wipers, dividers on side windows domino dots bits and bobs under the headcode.
Im using EMA Plastic Weld available and my local model shop and many others, I believe the principle chemical is Di-Clhorine
http://www.ema-models.co.uk/products/04 ... nt-ml.html
It is water like cold to the touch like acetone and does have a smell so is best if you dont leave the top off for extended periods, not to mention evaporation costs money
Slowly adding the details, glazing, wipers, dividers on side windows domino dots bits and bobs under the headcode.