Peter's Workbench a Urie S15

[Peter Cross]

I have not designed a kit or any etch work. But to my mind it can't take any more effort to draw the part corectly as incorrectly. I must geta drawing program and have a play as there are a few bits I would like for the layout.

 

[Peter Cross]

I have had some more success with the tender.



I started off by forming the radiused corners for the flares. I made three three as the first two did not match. They took a bit of fiddling butfar better than makingthemfrom brass fingers and solder. I also cut a fairly large hole in the footplate hopefully this will stop the tinny noise when running if not it gives access to fill it with foam.













I then fitted the tender top and the side raives. The top fitted quite well. but the side were poor. I decided it would be quicker to fill the gap than make new ones. Also they were both etched the same instead of a left and right. I still need to do a bit of serious cleaning up to be done. I feel another email to William is on the way.











Most of theetched parts for the front have been fitted. There are a few details I want to add that are not in the kit. I am not quite sure what William's idea was. there were two etched sand boxes as I have used. He also supplies cast ones that could be soldered to the footplate, which would be fine but the footlate is etched to take the full height etched ones.









I quick cheack to find out how things line up. It seems to me to be looking something like it should.









I would like to get the last of the main parts on the loco and tender finished just to leaving the detail work to be done after I have finished the getting the chassis running.

 

[Peter Cross]

Back to the frames. I did add the coal plate and shovelling plate to the tender no photos as yet.





I sorted out the mounting for the expansion link.. I made two new ones from scrap. This is what I had to start with the etched beading will be replaced as there is no way it will fit.









When I had made the extra two I soldered them to two strips the wider one is for fixing to the frames the thin one will be removed after they are soldered to the motion bracket.









It took quite a bit of frame modification to make it fit at the right level. I will be able to fix the assembly to the frames. I think I will need to rienforce the join to the motion bracket. It is quite a long assembly.















It looks the part. I can now start the assembly of valve gear. The expansion link will be suspended on a screw between the frame which will make removal easier.



Here is the whole lot joined together and fixed at both ends. It all seems to be in the right place now.

 

[Peter Cross]

A little closer to the end. Progress seems very slow at the moment, I think I spend too much time sorting the builders problems. Or causing them depending which side of the fence you are sitting.


Next up I connected the connecting rods to the cross headssorted out the reverse crankpins for both the centre and front drivers. At least with SR locos there is less of a clearence issue as the front pin only has to miss the connecting rod not the cross head.











I also made a start with the valve gear assembly. I am doing it one peice at a time, and in pairs. It is not unknown for me to make to lefts or rights rather than one of each. The valve gear will disconnect from the cross head and unscrew from the return crank.




One side of the valve gear done. A couple of minor adjustments are required. The screw heads in view will be thinned down to remove the slots. I seem to have got a tight spot appear which needs looking into now. I am halfway through the second side. But have to remake the union link as a hole broke out whilst enlarging to take the mounting screw.



All in all I am pleased with the result William seems to of caught the character of the prototype. I am not sure how it would of worked without moving the mounting for the expansion link forward about 5mm.



I keep looking at the bigend, I am going to have to add some form of representation of the wedges etc.








I have discovered I have lost the ashpan in the move to the upstairs room. I am sure it will turn up as soon as I have made anew one.

 

[Peter Cross]

It has been sometime since my last post. I just have not had time to get to the bench. It all started back in March when mother in law sadly passed away. since then we have built an extension on the house moved and our adopted son arrived a month ago, being just 2 days old at the time he takes a bit up a bit of our time.

I am finally finding odd minutes to sit at the bench, and if I do not spend to much time pondering I can actully do something.

Back to the S15.



Poor state of affairs when I sat back at the bench after clearing the accumilated clutter. First of all I had not put the loco away as last time there I was going back next day.



Well, while refreshing my mind about where I had got to. I found I was not only missing the ash pan, but the left hand union link I was remaking had gone, along a return crank, broken valve rod.



I restarted work by making the missing and broken parts. I also re did a couple of joins on the right hand side to matchthe better method used on the left.



Heres the right side modified.




The left side completed. All looking good.







I also fited themotor for testing. I think itis a MSC crailcrest and JH gearset. I did add some bushes to it to give more bearing surface. Plus it all fits into the firebox nicely.








I have now taken the motion off the frames so I can finish detailing them, while I work out what I need to add I went back to the body. I made and fitted the washout plugs none in kit. The holes for which were in the wrong place. I assume the boiler had been pre rolled inside out. This meant I needed to fill the existing and drill new ones. Not hard to do just a pain as it was unnecessary if rolled the right way







That's it for now. It has taken me a week to do this little bit.

 

[Steph Dale]

Nice to see you're still fighting through Peter!
It looks like you're winning now too.

Steph

 

[Peter Cross]

Nice to see you're still fighting through Peter!
It looks like you're winning now too.

Steph

Thanks Steph

I feel like I am over the hump with it now. I always feel much better once the valve gear is done. When it is all together it looks like an S15 so that's a good sign. Just need to and the details now.

 

[Peter Cross]

Having finished the valve gear I went back to the frames.



I started by adjusting two sand boxes to be closer to the right shape as they where not in the kit, and nothing sent to me from william. these fit behind the slide bars and the pipes have to clear the rear of the bogie.







The next up was the spings. I used cast ones out of my spares boxes. This is because I cut the etched ones off of the frames, they just do not look beefy enough unless there are a few layers of etch to pad them out. The front ones act as keeps for the horn guides. the centre one are mounted on the side beams. front and rear are on the frames.









I then went onto the drain cocks, not in the kit, and the relief valves on the cylinder fronts, hole is in the kit but valve is not. The drain pipes are a bit thick but would be very fragile nearer scale size as very long. I need to trim back to buffer beam.












Well I think that it for the frames. Hopefully I can send them to the paint shop now. Time to press on with the loco and tender bodies. Must also look and see if the Dukedog needs any paint touching up.

 

[Peter Cross]

Cant believe how much I have got done in the last few days. I have a cold so have been relieved of baby feeding duty for a while.



I have never wished for a cold to last, but better get on while the sneezes fly.



I went back to the body today. Time to sort out the reversing rod etc. There are two sets of bearing blocks weedy etched ones or reasonable cast ones. These were drilled to take the shaft, this was curved under the boiler, a bit more so than it should be but I was not going to cut away some of the cladding. There were no levers so they needed to be made. The reversing rod to the cab was in the kit the front end was adapted to look a little more workman like. I also had to make the support to fit midway along.



I thought this was going to be easier than sorting out the smoke deflectors. I not quite sure whether I picked the right one to start on.















Still trying to figure out what to do about the smokebox door, the kit only had the Urie one. But I need the Maunsell one for the Maunsell boiler supplied with the kit. Again not much luck with parts from William.

 

[Peter Cross]

Cold is over so back to my baby duties. It has been hard not cuddling him.



I have done a little to the S15 mostly to bits that will be added in the fullness of time.



I started with the smoke deflectors, these have been made lower and shortened. Also cut out to go over the steam pipes. These now need the straps adding to the top and a possibly some angle to hold the bottom in place.









I then got on with the loco and tender steps. It started off well I folded and fitted the lower treads. but when it came to the upper ones. Four of the upper ones can be seen lower right these bear no resemblance of what is require. I still need to figure out what to do.











Then onto the smokebox door. this is the one from the kit. Looks more H15 than S15, it is a Urie one anyway.







The one I am making. Just dogs and hinge to add now.















A few other parts were done too, but did not photo well.

 

[oldravendale]

Oh, the joy of an Ace Kit.

Glad to see that you've not had to call out the men in white coats just yet.

Brian

 

[Steph Dale]

Peter,
The step treads on a Urie loco don't look like either the modified, unmodified or assembled parts anyway, unfortunately.
I'd get rid of them and start again...

Steph

 

[Peter Cross]

Peter,
The step treads on a Urie loco don't look like either the modified, unmodified or assembled parts anyway, unfortunately.
I'd get rid of them and start again...

Steph

I will have to have a closer look at some photos. The supports look about the right shape. I never really looked at the treads. I suppose it is what happens when you try to use the bis from the kit.

 

[dibateg]

Great determination and results Peter, I feel better about some of the awful kits I've put together now!

Regards
Tony

 

[Peter Cross]

Smoke box door finished. Now need to press on with the rest of it.





I have added all the lamp irons, which came out of the stores. The hinges are the second attempt. I made a hinge then looked at the photos and realised it needed a forked end, after muttering oh fork, I took them off and started again.











And the two together just to show the difference. All in all I am pleased with it. I think it looks the part. My only criticism is I think the handrail does not quite look right. That might change once fitted and surrounded by smoke deflectors.

 

[mickoo]

Nice door, with craftsmanship like that I don't know why your bothering with the rest of the kit, just get some sheets of metal and make your own, it'd be quicker and better.

MD

 

[Peter Cross]

Nice door, with craftsmanship like that I don't know why your bothering with the rest of the kit, just get some sheets of metal and make your own, it'd be quicker and better.

MD

I do like to scratch build I have just done a LSWR G6 and half way through an 0395.

 

[Peter Cross]

Back to the steps. I was prompted by a reply on here that the steps in the kit did not look right. I decided to make new treads.

These are from 010´´ nickel silver for strength. Six pieces soldered together. This needs to be cut and filed carefully to make sure they all remain the same size.



The treads only have the front part of the sides turned up not the whole edge.







The loco steps











The front steps added to the loco, I just need to add a strengthening strip behind them.

 

[Steph Dale]

Much better!

I think the supporting rod from the back of the steps probably bolts to the frames, but that's a tricky thing to pull off however a kit is designed.

Steph

 

[Peter Cross]

Much better!

I think the supporting rod from the back of the steps probably bolts to the frames, but that's a tricky thing to pull off however a kit is designed.
Steph

I was or have just used all a L shaped wire up the back with the short leg soldered to the floor. Not right, but gives the back a bit of support.