Modelling GWR 4-plk opens in 7mm... which kit to choose?

adrian

Flying Squad
Thanks for resurrecting this - it's from a couple of years ago

With reference to what you were responding to
Col,
No doubt someone will correct me if I am wrong but I believe you can usually only laser cut from one side, so if you want your planks marking inside and out you need to use two layers.

It's another project I need to write up and publish. When I got my latest laser cutter I purchased and fitted a cheap laser crosshairs to the laser head. It is now very simple to laser etch plywood from both sides and accurately aligned , no jigs are required and it has totally transformed my laser cutting efforts.

Basically Lightburn software has an x-y offset function. So you etch one side of the wagon, turn the side over, use the crosshairs set to one corner and laser etch the other side, the offset positions the start of the laser cut precisely where the laser crosshairs were so it can laser etch the inside planking as well on the same piece of plywood. Very simple and very quick - I'll try and get a more thorough user guide written up as soon as I have chance.

laser-align - 1.jpeg
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Adrian,

I shall be pleased to read further posts on your exploits with laser etching.

As an interim, in regard to the plywood:-

* What thickness are you using for the sheeting?
* What grade /type /spec is the plywood?
* Which company supplies the plywood?

thank you, Graham
 

adrian

Flying Squad
Adrian,

I shall be pleased to read further posts on your exploits with laser etching.

As an interim, in regard to the plywood:-

* What thickness are you using for the sheeting?
* What grade /type /spec is the plywood?
* Which company supplies the plywood?

thank you, Graham

I'm using 1.5mm birch ply which is pretty close to the 2 3/8" thickness for the RCH wagons. If I remember correctly I got it from LaserPly as they did thinner sheets at 0.4mm and 0.8mm as well. Laserply Plywood Archives - Laserply
 

paratom

Western Thunderer
laser cut the ironwork (probably not a hobby machine) from mild steel shim. No cusp... (and it rusts realistically)
I would imagine you would need a high wattege laser cutter to even cut through steel shim and if you are using a hobby laser cutter it will probably not do the job. The metal work could be 3D printed on a resin 3D printer flat on the print bed then removed after it is cured. If it is removed before curing it will warp.
 
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