7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Another one re-assembled and into the fitting out shop, Finney7 kit with FMJ casing and painted by Warren Haywood

I need to turn some bushes to pack out the connecting rod so it's nice and straight and then trim the crank pin to suit; currently still using the big securing pins as they're easier to work with, but the kit cast ones with detail on will go in at the end.

Name, numbers, speedo, whistle, sand bin covers, hooks and glazing to complete ready for hand over end of the month to Neil Podbery for weathering.

Also need to fit a new tender step tread as one has gone awol :rolleyes:

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cmax

Western Thunderer
Another one re-assembled and into the fitting out shop, Finney7 kit with FMJ casing and painted by Warren Haywood

I need to turn some bushes to pack out the connecting rod so it's nice and straight and then trim the crank pin to suit; currently still using the big securing pins as they're easier to work with, but the kit cast ones with detail on will go in at the end.

Name, numbers, speedo, whistle, sand bin covers, hooks and glazing to complete ready for hand over end of the month to Neil Podbery for weathering.

Also need to fit a new tender step tread as one has gone awol :rolleyes:

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It looks the business now, can't wait to see Spitfire after weathering.
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Another one re-assembled and into the fitting out shop, Finney7 kit with FMJ casing and painted by Warren Haywood

I need to turn some bushes to pack out the connecting rod so it's nice and straight and then trim the crank pin to suit; currently still using the big securing pins as they're easier to work with, but the kit cast ones with detail on will go in at the end.

Name, numbers, speedo, whistle, sand bin covers, hooks and glazing to complete ready for hand over end of the month to Neil Podbery for weathering.

Also need to fit a new tender step tread as one has gone awol :rolleyes:

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Look at that beauty!
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Another one re-assembled and into the fitting out shop, Finney7 kit with FMJ casing and painted by Warren Haywood

I need to turn some bushes to pack out the connecting rod so it's nice and straight and then trim the crank pin to suit; currently still using the big securing pins as they're easier to work with, but the kit cast ones with detail on will go in at the end.

Name, numbers, speedo, whistle, sand bin covers, hooks and glazing to complete ready for hand over end of the month to Neil Podbery for weathering.

Also need to fit a new tender step tread as one has gone awol :rolleyes:

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Very nice and i dont even particularly like them , too slabby .
Oh that'll open up a 'can' of worms .
Happy Christmas to all W T ers .
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Well that took longer than planned but finally ready for weathering. The thread on the cast crankpin nuts is just :rant: so I've left the turned ones in for now. I'll skim the heads down on the turned ones later, then cut the detailed heads off the casts ones and sweat them together.

The 1/8th nameplate also needs a couple of gloss coats and final fitting to the stand.

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Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Mick,

Look for a post from me on this subject... enter "crank pin nut" in the search box and dog star as the author.... then scroll down the list for my posts of 18th and 19th August 2012. Several photos of relevance.

Rgds, Graham
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Mick,

Look for a post from me on this subject... enter "crank pin nut" in the search box and dog star as the author.... then scroll down the list for my posts of 18th and 19th August 2012. Several photos of relevance.

Rgds, Graham
Interesting :thumbs: but not quite like a Bulleid Pacific SR crank retaining system I’m afraid, so not much help in this instance.

I will add the technique to the data banks for future use.
 
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mickoo

Western Thunderer
Bear in mind there are two types of connecting rod retention fittings and four types of connecting rod fittings.

The original Bulleid coupling rod is a depressed dished cover over, this is what the Finney7 castings represent.....kind of.

All leading axles have this type of fitting.

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The other fitting is a washer with nut and cotter pin, this came along when the engines were rebuilt and a quick check shows all rebuilds have this type of fitting, however, it appears they modified more wheels than engines rebuilt so it is possible to see a BR crank pin fitted wheel on the rear axle of original engines.

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Both engines also have the BR type of fitting on the driving axle, a domed cover and four bolts, on BR rebuilds these four bolts hold the return crank, on originals a simple cover suffices.

You need to check your engine and date and then find out which retaining fittings it had at that time and they do vary a lot across the class.

One other aspect on the rear axle, the LH side also has four studs to hold the speedo crank, despite whatever fitting is on the RH side.

In this instance (34066) and our date line had SR - BR - SR fittings and I don't have an indexing table so not quite sure yet how to replicate the four studs on the BR axle, mind I do have an XY table so that might work. More as likely I'll get some etches done on the side of another sheet and then fit them later as I doubt the model will be back here for final checks for several months.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Just when you think you have everything you need.....

Couple of extra castings for the B1 project, whilst there is an etched eccentric rod big end bearing cover, it's nickel silver; so a brass casting seemed a better option.

We were also planning to use the BLP steam turbo generator but on close inspection, all the ports and cable entries were all wrong, so we have a new one drawn up for the B1. I haven't cross checked yet but I think it'll also be right for other LNER engines.

I may need to pop back to the turbo and tweak a few bits to get it to print well and I think it's missing some fine details on the turbine end. The problem is, this thing is tiny and as soon as you paint it, those tiny details get lost, which begs the question, do you need to model them in the first place?

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Clarence3815

Western Thunderer
Do we actually `need` a collection of railway related artifacts miniature or full size?

If we do then we can each decide what level of fidelity to detail we want.

Knowing it is there is sometimes more important than being able to see it - perhaps.

Having a model that doesn`t satisfy is always going to be a dud for me.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Having a model that doesn`t satisfy is always going to be a dud for me.
But your level of satisfaction is vastly different from everyone else, that's why bespoke commerical builds are so special, they are tailored to the exact customers requirements.

It's a whole new ball game when you start to pack and sell kits, what do you and what do you 'not' put in; irrespective of that conundrum one thing is certain....someone will be upset.....so all you can do is reduce that level of disappointment to the lowest level practicable; with experience, that value will never be zero sad to say.

If I don't put the turbo generator in then people will complain, if I add the BLP one people will complain because it's the wrong type, if I put the correct one in...guess what...people complain as they don't want to pay the extra price for a detail they didn't want.

Anyone want to guess what the pattern is here? Yup, people are going to complain :D, knowing that then I add what I think is value for money and required.
 

Clarence3815

Western Thunderer
I understand your conumdrum.

I thought of suggesting a list of options customers could select from. But then you need to have a special packing regime available for each kit. And that is never going to work at a show with all the hubbub going on.

I did have a special arrangement with a now ceased kit supplier and could order just what I wanted. I would order 12 months in advance to give the order time to be processed along with other custmer`s orders.
 
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