mickoo
Western Thunderer
Thank you, look forward to seeing your updates
7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Appreciated, I think it's going to be even more impressive once painted.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Finally managed to finish up the Connoisseur 4F back from paint recently, reassemble the inside motion and run in ready for DCC to be fitted shortly.
The extra effort on the inside motion upgrade was worth it, it fills the big hole under the boiler just nicely.
Clients specification was early LMS, LH drive, Welsh shed (Swansea Victoria - Paxton Street) all topped out in black by Warren Heywood
The extra effort on the inside motion upgrade was worth it, it fills the big hole under the boiler just nicely.
Clients specification was early LMS, LH drive, Welsh shed (Swansea Victoria - Paxton Street) all topped out in black by Warren Heywood
mickoo
Western Thunderer
A new week and a new project, not quite, time to spend some quality time back with the MR compound kit. The final (hopefully) tender test etches turned up a few weeks back; so it's a case of building it, photographing it and knocking up some words for the blurb.
The metal work so far is all fine, so it was time to flex some electrons and see what the printer turfed out. I'm not sure....and I haven't checked extensively.....but I don't think there are any 3rd party castings to suit this type of axle box and spring hangers so it was 3D or nothing really.
The two main differences are the lower shackle brackets and the twin rod retention bars, very much like the Cartazzi trucks on Gresley engines, Thompson and Peppercorn too if I recall correctly. The rods are not fitted yet, I'll fabricate some up later on, some brass rod and small nuts will do the trick.
MR and then LMS moved on around the same time to the then to become standard flat bar bolted to the frames, some bogie tenders fitted to other engines employed flat bars, but these are twin rod versions.
The axle box is currently only held on by the lower pins which are soldered to the frames, this allows them to be pulled off and the lining completed behind the springs. The wheels are also lined, so need to be pulled out as well; to accommodate that, the axle box rear is hollowed out to accept the bearing and wheel set removal. It does leave a hole in the bottom, but that's a small price to pay.
The upper pins are, quite frankly, an enthusiasm feature. They can be printed, but even the Form has trouble clearing and forming the pin between the shackle faces. The other downside is that the rear is the sacrificial face and any pin printed on the rear gets sanded off. So despite being a bit of a pain to cut and fit, the individual pins do look much better and add a nice detail.
The brake shoes are simple monkey see monkey do affairs, although getting just the right orientation to minimise artifacts has proved a little more time consuming than I envisaged/wanted, but they're nearly there; these only needed a slight waft with the fibre brush to clean up. Conversely the axle box and spring assembles knocked out the park very early on in that respect.
The brake pull rods are held in place with small pins through the beams and the lower section of the bolster with equalising links all comes out as well as one unit, so it breaks down nicely for paint.
I may rework the springs a little in later (final) renditions, primarily around the upper pin and shackle area, currently the Y shaped link blends in with the spring at the end, I need to pull the spring face back toward the centre by about 0.1 - 0.15 to define the two as separate items so to speak.
The metal work so far is all fine, so it was time to flex some electrons and see what the printer turfed out. I'm not sure....and I haven't checked extensively.....but I don't think there are any 3rd party castings to suit this type of axle box and spring hangers so it was 3D or nothing really.
The two main differences are the lower shackle brackets and the twin rod retention bars, very much like the Cartazzi trucks on Gresley engines, Thompson and Peppercorn too if I recall correctly. The rods are not fitted yet, I'll fabricate some up later on, some brass rod and small nuts will do the trick.
MR and then LMS moved on around the same time to the then to become standard flat bar bolted to the frames, some bogie tenders fitted to other engines employed flat bars, but these are twin rod versions.
The axle box is currently only held on by the lower pins which are soldered to the frames, this allows them to be pulled off and the lining completed behind the springs. The wheels are also lined, so need to be pulled out as well; to accommodate that, the axle box rear is hollowed out to accept the bearing and wheel set removal. It does leave a hole in the bottom, but that's a small price to pay.
The upper pins are, quite frankly, an enthusiasm feature. They can be printed, but even the Form has trouble clearing and forming the pin between the shackle faces. The other downside is that the rear is the sacrificial face and any pin printed on the rear gets sanded off. So despite being a bit of a pain to cut and fit, the individual pins do look much better and add a nice detail.
The brake shoes are simple monkey see monkey do affairs, although getting just the right orientation to minimise artifacts has proved a little more time consuming than I envisaged/wanted, but they're nearly there; these only needed a slight waft with the fibre brush to clean up. Conversely the axle box and spring assembles knocked out the park very early on in that respect.
The brake pull rods are held in place with small pins through the beams and the lower section of the bolster with equalising links all comes out as well as one unit, so it breaks down nicely for paint.
I may rework the springs a little in later (final) renditions, primarily around the upper pin and shackle area, currently the Y shaped link blends in with the spring at the end, I need to pull the spring face back toward the centre by about 0.1 - 0.15 to define the two as separate items so to speak.
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mickoo
Western Thunderer
Another stage update on the MR Compound bogie tender.
Chassis all done now.......(well not quite, there's a cover plate to go over the rear hook area once it's fitted), one or two corrections required to the etches, Wackamole syndrome, eventually though they all get resolved. The water feed pipework is brass, just easier to paint it with the resin fittings attached, they're not yet fully secured so a few gaps here and there.
The Vacuum pipe run is fun, you have to do it in sections and fortunately there are couplings on the real tender that make it a bit easier, it is an enthusiasm feature but if the holes are there then it had better be test fitted in case anyone else follows. It doesn't quite line up at the rear, my fault, the hole is in the wrong place.....incorrect datum point used to measure offset for the hole...that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it
With the bogies fitted there is very little clearance and bogie swing is very limited, however you don;t need much as it's such a short wheel base and negotiates 6' curves easily. It's on par with later LNER 8 wheel tenders in that respect and they are rigid frames.
The front bogie is from an earlier test build but it'll get swapped out shortly and the rest of the brake gear fitted up and tested, then it'll be onto the tank to complete.
For now it's time to organise the photos, mark them up with part numbers and write some blurb whilst it's all still fresh in my mind
Chassis all done now.......(well not quite, there's a cover plate to go over the rear hook area once it's fitted), one or two corrections required to the etches, Wackamole syndrome, eventually though they all get resolved. The water feed pipework is brass, just easier to paint it with the resin fittings attached, they're not yet fully secured so a few gaps here and there.
The Vacuum pipe run is fun, you have to do it in sections and fortunately there are couplings on the real tender that make it a bit easier, it is an enthusiasm feature but if the holes are there then it had better be test fitted in case anyone else follows. It doesn't quite line up at the rear, my fault, the hole is in the wrong place.....incorrect datum point used to measure offset for the hole...that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it
With the bogies fitted there is very little clearance and bogie swing is very limited, however you don;t need much as it's such a short wheel base and negotiates 6' curves easily. It's on par with later LNER 8 wheel tenders in that respect and they are rigid frames.
The front bogie is from an earlier test build but it'll get swapped out shortly and the rest of the brake gear fitted up and tested, then it'll be onto the tank to complete.
For now it's time to organise the photos, mark them up with part numbers and write some blurb whilst it's all still fresh in my mind
mickoo
Western Thunderer
End of weekend up date on the MR Compound bogie tender, front bogie completed, it differs from the rear at the front end where the transom stay is cranked to clear the brake gear structures.
All the brake rigging is now completed and with one or two discreet pins pulled, can be removed to allow everything to be stripped down for paint.
It's not a quick task by any means and I'm sure there are other ways to do it all, but it's practical and works.
Fully fitted out the tender chassis, just needs buffers and vacuum pipe stand to complete, I'll need to source the relevant castings in due course. There's not much swing on the bogies with all the brake gear in place, but enough flex to go through 6' curves well enough.
Next up the tank top and finally finish off the blurb.
All the brake rigging is now completed and with one or two discreet pins pulled, can be removed to allow everything to be stripped down for paint.
It's not a quick task by any means and I'm sure there are other ways to do it all, but it's practical and works.
Fully fitted out the tender chassis, just needs buffers and vacuum pipe stand to complete, I'll need to source the relevant castings in due course. There's not much swing on the bogies with all the brake gear in place, but enough flex to go through 6' curves well enough.
Next up the tank top and finally finish off the blurb.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
End of week update on the MR Compound tender.
Nearly done, just the three rear lamp irons to fit, source some buffers, hand brake stand and vacuum hose stand pipe.
Unfortunately the new ultrasonic cleaner has battered the paint on the resin lockers and tank fillers....note to self, do not fit these until after the last clean up The Chassis and bogies are okay as they've not been though yet.
Even though it's mechanically clean it still needs a further decreasing but that'll be later tomorrow after I've written up the blurb. Infuriatingly the US cleaner seems to highlight those areas, probably the cleaning agent for the flux....curses.
Nearly done, just the three rear lamp irons to fit, source some buffers, hand brake stand and vacuum hose stand pipe.
Unfortunately the new ultrasonic cleaner has battered the paint on the resin lockers and tank fillers....note to self, do not fit these until after the last clean up
The Chassis and bogies are okay as they've not been though yet.Even though it's mechanically clean it still needs a further decreasing but that'll be later tomorrow after I've written up the blurb. Infuriatingly the US cleaner seems to highlight those areas, probably the cleaning agent for the flux....curses.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Quick update on the MoK 4MT, assembled back together and run in, just glazing and backhead to finish and fit, hooks on order and vacuum hose glad hands are still on walkabout, I'll send the Rangers out at dawn and herd them back.
I'll do some studio shots when it's all done, then it'll be off for some weathering and DCC.
I'll do some studio shots when it's all done, then it'll be off for some weathering and DCC.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
More 3D madness. I was asked if it were possible to replicate the SR Z class horn guides and springs as cosmetic resin components. The anchor points are not shown and will attach to the spring ends via brass rod.
I've not seen this type or bracket/beam before so it's an interesting subject. The beam appears to have no load bearing function and primarily appears to keep the spring in place below the axle box, possibly due to the amount of side play they reasoned the spring might deform or slip out of centre?
The original concept had the spring and beam integral but the resin would not clear the small gap between the spring leaves and beam sides, the second attempt was more for giggles, is it possible to make the spring as an individual item that slots up inside the beam, the answer is of course yes.
The horn guides are handed, this one is a LH one, the large block to the rear face is the wedge adjuster, there being some sort of fixing through here to the adjustable wedge, the drawings are not clear on that detail so it remains off at the moment. There also appears to be some swaging/flaring/bulging of the beam around the spring centre block, again the drawings are ambiguous so the beam is currently flat right across.
This type will suffice for three of the axles, the forth requires the axle to be removable, thus as well as an independent spring, the beam will need to be separate as well, requiring the horn guides to be fitted individually, bit of a faff but should cover all objectives.
Apologies for the slightly thick layer of paint it's late in the end of a long day
I've not seen this type or bracket/beam before so it's an interesting subject. The beam appears to have no load bearing function and primarily appears to keep the spring in place below the axle box, possibly due to the amount of side play they reasoned the spring might deform or slip out of centre?
The original concept had the spring and beam integral but the resin would not clear the small gap between the spring leaves and beam sides, the second attempt was more for giggles, is it possible to make the spring as an individual item that slots up inside the beam, the answer is of course yes.
The horn guides are handed, this one is a LH one, the large block to the rear face is the wedge adjuster, there being some sort of fixing through here to the adjustable wedge, the drawings are not clear on that detail so it remains off at the moment. There also appears to be some swaging/flaring/bulging of the beam around the spring centre block, again the drawings are ambiguous so the beam is currently flat right across.
This type will suffice for three of the axles, the forth requires the axle to be removable, thus as well as an independent spring, the beam will need to be separate as well, requiring the horn guides to be fitted individually, bit of a faff but should cover all objectives.
Apologies for the slightly thick layer of paint
it's late in the end of a long day
mickoo
Western Thunderer
More progress on the LMS Garratt. Finally managed to get sight of some works drawings, good and bad, good in that they show lots more detail and help building the model, bad in that a lot of what went before had to be binned.
Most of the time has been spent on the boiler frame pipework, there's quite a lot of it
All good practice for when I get to my SAR Garratts
Basically everything in grey is new 3D print work and the upper works have had a good dose of attention too, I'll post those images up tomorrow as there's a couple of pieces still in progress to finish that sub assembly off. The boiler frame just requires ash pan door linkages and hand brake linkage up toward the footplate, it continues above on the upper assembly.
The white metal pipe alongside the ash pan will almost certainly get altered once the exhaust steam injector gets drawn up, printed and fitted.
Most of the time has been spent on the boiler frame pipework, there's quite a lot of it
All good practice for when I get to my SAR Garratts Basically everything in grey is new 3D print work and the upper works have had a good dose of attention too, I'll post those images up tomorrow as there's a couple of pieces still in progress to finish that sub assembly off. The boiler frame just requires ash pan door linkages and hand brake linkage up toward the footplate, it continues above on the upper assembly.
The white metal pipe alongside the ash pan will almost certainly get altered once the exhaust steam injector gets drawn up, printed and fitted.
Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen
Western Thunderer
Mick,
Your work is a great demonstration of the use of multimedia in the construction of our models and really shows where the future lies.
David Rayner , S-Club-7, on this forum is also showing the way with track components and wagon axleboxes plus loads of other stuff.
Tim
Your work is a great demonstration of the use of multimedia in the construction of our models and really shows where the future lies.
David Rayner , S-Club-7, on this forum is also showing the way with track components and wagon axleboxes plus loads of other stuff.
Tim
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Tim, appreciated
Dave's stuff is on another level though, five or so years ago when he did the first track chairs I didn't think they'd stand up to regular use, Love Lane demonstrates differently.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
As mentioned a few days back, JM Garratt topsides plus a few other under gubbins added.
I'll be honest, the hand brake turn buckle and linkage was a fiddle but looks nice for the effort, I couldn't see anything in the kit for this, maybe I missed it.
Safety valves are 3D printed with brass stems for the pips, I opted to drill right through and solder the brass wire inside the firebox top as well as adhesive, the brass wire core might help protect them if they get a knock....probably not
Chimney has some miniature hex bolts coming to detail it out and the firebox blisters are only temporarily fixed. The vacuum injector has turned out well and just needs piping up now, it is straight despite the photos showing different.
Just noticed the bearing bed plate castings have dropped down during the photos......drat and botheration
I'll be honest, the hand brake turn buckle and linkage was a fiddle but looks nice for the effort, I couldn't see anything in the kit for this, maybe I missed it.
Safety valves are 3D printed with brass stems for the pips, I opted to drill right through and solder the brass wire inside the firebox top as well as adhesive, the brass wire core might help protect them if they get a knock....probably not
Chimney has some miniature hex bolts coming to detail it out and the firebox blisters are only temporarily fixed. The vacuum injector has turned out well and just needs piping up now, it is straight despite the photos showing different.
Just noticed the bearing bed plate castings have dropped down during the photos......drat and botheration
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Larry, the object has to start out in CAD I'm afraid. If you had a solid master then you would have to use that as a template and draw one up in CAD and then print, not undo able, just extra work but not that much. The real work comes in getting it to print in the machine, orientation and support are quite (very) important.
JimG
Western Thunderer
There's also the option to use a 3D scanner to create a 3D file of the object it scans - like Modelu does of full size humans to generate files to scale down to 3D print the model figures. But I suspect that the resolution of the scanners that we modellers could afford is probably not good enough to scan very small objects like model parts. You would probably be easier finding a full size part and scanning that.
Jim.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Good point, I completely dismissed a 3D scanner.There's also the option to use a 3D scanner to create a 3D file of the object it scans - like Modelu does of full size humans to generate files to scale down to 3D print the model figures. But I suspect that the resolution of the scanners that we modellers could afford is probably not good enough to scan very small objects like model parts. You would probably be easier finding a full size part and scanning that.
Jim.
I assumed Larry had a model part in mind so never thought of a 3D scanner, and, as you note, decent scanners are not a cheap hobby option.
Ian@StEnochs
Western Thunderer
Superb work Mick.
Is the different colours of printed parts significant and can you tell us what printer you use please?
Ian.
Is the different colours of printed parts significant and can you tell us what printer you use please?
Ian.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Appreciated.
The colour difference is simply paint, the older red oxide parts were done on the previous hobby printer and the grey resin made it hard to observe details, especially when photographed. Therefore I gave them a cover coat in red oxide to highlight the details, it also made it readily evident to viewers that they were 3D prints and not, lets say primed brass or white metal fittings.
Problem is, now all models go through a ultrasonic cleaner and that batters the paint and causes large areas to flake off; thus you have to go back and scrub the paint off with either soft fibre brushes or wash with IPA, and then clean again, a right pain to say the least.
All new prints remain in grey now unless they are for demonstration, like the Z class springs/horn guides and parts on the 3 Cyl compound tender.
It's just a change in work flow really.
The current printer is a Form 3.