7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench

simond

Western Thunderer
Nice.

Does the bit of tube in the first picture define the longitudinal position of the bogie, and if so, does the screw and washer in the fourth picture retain the bogie but allow it to rock fore & aft, i.e. pitch to accommodate track undulations?

sorry, geek mode engaged at bar, hasn’t switched off yet…
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Yes, the tube limits longitudinal movement which is critical if you want to avoid the rear axle shorting, but, allows free lateral and rotational movement.

The retaining screw diameter is smaller than the lower slot in the bogie so it can pitch and roll and the rear axle also has a central rocking bar to give the axles some compensation play as well.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Still Bimbling along with the JLTRT Castle, most of the bulk is done so time to clean up, fill any gaps and add the details.

I still need to fabricate the fire iron tunnel top, let it into the intermediate and trailing splasher and then notch the RH intermediate splasher for the reversing reach rod.

The mud holes covers are cast, at least I think the blobs are mud hole covers? I usually replace them with the stamped copper ones from Malcolm Mitchell A Shop stores.

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mickoo

Western Thunderer
I made up a brass drift, and stamped a few of my own from shim copper into a bit of lead. Worked quite well but I made a lot of duff ones.
Well that is one way to do it, I think a 3D FNG stamp and die would work well for thin copper sheet to be honest, but for practical means, it's a lot easier to just buy them from Malcolm and support a cottage trader.

It'll probably be a lot cheaper too if you tot up my man hours to make the die set, source the copper sheet and then trim up the stampings afterward as it'd only do the indenting and not cutting out.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Like these....
View attachment 216988
From Simon Hill (Hobbyhorse)
Just like those ;)

I am going to be 'learned' on how to make the stamp at my next visit to Bucks Hill, whilst I have no issue supporting Malcolm in the immediate instance, there will come a time when he does finally close his doors; so I need to future proof going forward.

I have another Castle, King and Star on the books and I'm sure more will turn up in the future.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Mick,can I ask if you have a preference for a filler as mentioned above?

regards Rog
Depends on what needs repairing, if it's a gap in metal then I'll try to solder and dress back but if the gap is too big then it'll need a backing piece and then low melt solder to flood the joint and dress back. Where that's impractical then I'll either use Milliput fine or for fine stuff I'll use knifing putty and for scratches etc I'll use layers and layers of filler primer paint and sand back until smooth.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Quick end of week update on the JLTRT Castle, hopefully wrap it up early next week and then straight onto the second one.

No time for cleaning or a wash and excuse quick phone grab shots as heading out the door.

For the weekend, real trains down at Swanage and research for future projects.

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Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Quick end of week update on the JLTRT Castle, hopefully wrap it up early next week and then straight onto the second one.

No time for cleaning or a wash and excuse quick phone grab shots as heading out the door.

For the weekend, real trains down at Swanage and research for future projects.

View attachment 217127

View attachment 217128

Hi Mick, hope you enjoyed the Bulleid weekend at Swanage - research is a good excuse! I attended the similar weekend they held prior to COVID lockdowns and thought it was great. Very noticeable differences in the exhausts of the various types of loco and blastpipe.
 
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