Mickoo's BR modelling
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
Buckjumper
Flying Squad
Nice rescue! 
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Mick,
If you are going to use enamel, please, please please use precision. It's different class.
Better still get some cellulose
Regarding which green, this is BS 381c 224 deep bronze green, the picture has it very close.
Cheers Warren
If you are going to use enamel, please, please please use precision. It's different class.
Better still get some cellulose
Regarding which green, this is BS 381c 224 deep bronze green, the picture has it very close.
Cheers Warren
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Warren,
That's the colour I want
Do precision supply in rattle can or is it tins only, only ask as my airbrush went awol when we moved ten years ago so the added expense along with a modern compressor is not something I need in my life right now.....but will at some point in the future
I'm guessing that's Land Rover deep bronze green? Which I understand is no longer available from the motoring trade?
Nice model BTW
Best Mick
Addendum, seems Land Rover deep bronze green (actually touted in a lot of places as army green) is available in acrylics from the right sources and Pheonix do BR green in a spray can (ordered for next day delivery...lets see if that happens LOL) I'll probably get some of these motoring cans as well and see what finish they have.....until I get an airbrush
That's the colour I want
Do precision supply in rattle can or is it tins only, only ask as my airbrush went awol when we moved ten years ago so the added expense along with a modern compressor is not something I need in my life right now.....but will at some point in the future
I'm guessing that's Land Rover deep bronze green? Which I understand is no longer available from the motoring trade?
Nice model BTW
Best Mick
Addendum, seems Land Rover deep bronze green (actually touted in a lot of places as army green) is available in acrylics from the right sources
and Pheonix do BR green in a spray can (ordered for next day delivery...lets see if that happens LOL) I'll probably get some of these motoring cans as well and see what finish they have.....until I get an airbrush 
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Mick,
I use Autopaints Doncaster, quote the BS number you want and they will do an aerosol in celly.
The finish will be far better than any enamel paint.
There number is 01302822822, they will post aswell.
I use Autopaints Doncaster, quote the BS number you want and they will do an aerosol in celly.
The finish will be far better than any enamel paint.
There number is 01302822822, they will post aswell.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Awsome, cheers for that
I presume it'll be ok to spray celly over acrylic? I had to strip it all back again!!Whilst I have your attention, I'm guessing there's three basic types of paint, Acrylic, Enamel and cellulose, I seem to recall in days gone by (wargamming...!) that one you could wash the brush in water and wasn't petrolium based?
I always used to use enamel when spraying with an airbrush in the past, mind that was military vehicles and most of them were matt and I seem to remember that matt enamel was a different beast to satin or gloss.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Cheers, should never have cocked it up in the first place LOL, all these new paints and what not
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Graham, I think the problem is that the paint doesn't bond to its self very well, I'm guessing its main sticking ability comes from adhering to the metal, which in my experiance so far isn't that good, however other paints I've tried probably don't adhere any better but do adhere to them selves better and form a skin as such, bit like a Scotch egg in broad terms.
I did however find the coverage very good and achieved a nice even coating on large expanses and in nooks and crannies, which many spray paints often leave a thin seam of low density paint. Some globules did spatter through once or twice, probably paint temp or nozzle spatter so my fault, my only issue is that it appears to not adhere to the metal work very well and I accept that could be down to my cleaning or surface preparation....wash in Viakal twice and rinse in hot water.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Ordered
Which means I have a part used tin of Railmatch going spare and a Phoenix spray can in the post, hopefully one of those two will be the business.
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Mick,
You won't be able to spray celly over acrylic or enamel, best to bite the bullet and get it to bare metal and start again. I think it will be worth it in the long run.
If you want to know anything else regarding 'the dark art' just ask, been there, done it all, and I think I have it perfected now
This is how I would do it,
First etch primer coat, best with an airbrush but possible with a can
Then paint the lot cellulose gloss black,
Mask the black and add the green.
Letter and line then a satin lacquer.
Ideally you would use an airbrush as any rubbing down can be over sprayed with neat thinner to bring back the finish without the need for any more paint.
Have a practice on some coke tins first until you get a grasp on how the paint reacts.
You won't be able to spray celly over acrylic or enamel, best to bite the bullet and get it to bare metal and start again. I think it will be worth it in the long run.
If you want to know anything else regarding 'the dark art' just ask, been there, done it all, and I think I have it perfected now
This is how I would do it,
First etch primer coat, best with an airbrush but possible with a can
Then paint the lot cellulose gloss black,
Mask the black and add the green.
Letter and line then a satin lacquer.
Ideally you would use an airbrush as any rubbing down can be over sprayed with neat thinner to bring back the finish without the need for any more paint.
Have a practice on some coke tins first until you get a grasp on how the paint reacts.
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Just to add,
The reason the second coat of green did what it did is because although the paint is enamel the solvent it is mixed in to spray is cellulose. The wetness of the second coat reacted with the dried paint underneath and caused the crackling.
That means that you can really only do one coat with the Railmatch. No idea what you would do if it needed rubbing down and recoating! Not good really.
The reason the second coat of green did what it did is because although the paint is enamel the solvent it is mixed in to spray is cellulose. The wetness of the second coat reacted with the dried paint underneath and caused the crackling.
That means that you can really only do one coat with the Railmatch. No idea what you would do if it needed rubbing down and recoating! Not good really.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Warren,
Cheers, oddly I've never had an issue over spraying enamels before when using an airbrush, I have had issues with gloss varnish obver matt varnish or matt paint mind. I'm wondering if my first layer wasn't dry enough and the second was too wet as not all of the model crackled, the rear was the worst....where I'd given it an extra pass to get in the step creases, the RH side was quite good (about 20% crackled and small crackles of about 1-2mm) and the left side inbetween in patches.
Good idea on some cans I'll try as you suggest and see how the paints react, I'm hoping the Phoenix may spray on two layers providing the first is really dry and warmed and the second a very thin mist. Another trick I used to use on militaty models was to add a thin coat of Klear as a boundary layer before applying a gloss varnish which would be cellulose based. The other option of course is to find a source of BR green in acrylic....like Halfords used to do but no longer support
I'd rather not strip it all back down, in my bitter experiance that never goes well! But if I do end up stripping it, I presume cellulose thinners is the way to go given hints from others above? hopefully that'll take the etch primer off as well?.
None the less, I will 'follow' your lead in future
Best Mick
Cheers, oddly I've never had an issue over spraying enamels before when using an airbrush, I have had issues with gloss varnish obver matt varnish or matt paint mind. I'm wondering if my first layer wasn't dry enough and the second was too wet as not all of the model crackled, the rear was the worst....where I'd given it an extra pass to get in the step creases, the RH side was quite good (about 20% crackled and small crackles of about 1-2mm) and the left side inbetween in patches.
Good idea on some cans
I'll try as you suggest and see how the paints react, I'm hoping the Phoenix may spray on two layers providing the first is really dry and warmed and the second a very thin mist. Another trick I used to use on militaty models was to add a thin coat of Klear as a boundary layer before applying a gloss varnish which would be cellulose based. The other option of course is to find a source of BR green in acrylic....like Halfords used to do but no longer supportI'd rather not strip it all back down, in my bitter experiance that never goes well! But if I do end up stripping it, I presume cellulose thinners is the way to go given hints from others above? hopefully that'll take the etch primer off as well?.
None the less, I will 'follow' your lead in future
Best Mick
mickoo
Western Thunderer
I'm enjoying this spray a test can malarky
Top tip today pop pickers fix your can down or in my case fill 2/3rds full of water, if not on the first pass of the spray can it'll turn into a fairground tin can alley projectile and A: either land on something expensive (carpet, books, insert object of your choice if your inside) or....in my case.....B: if your outside, on the garage floor, where it will become covered in dirt and useless.
Mind you, that does have an added bonus in that to obtain another test can one must first empty said contents into one large glass for consumption
Top tip today pop pickers
fix your can down or in my case fill 2/3rds full of water, if not on the first pass of the spray can it'll turn into a fairground tin can alley projectile and A: either land on something expensive (carpet, books, insert object of your choice if your inside) or....in my case.....B: if your outside, on the garage floor, where it will become covered in dirt and useless.Mind you, that does have an added bonus in that to obtain another test can one must first empty said contents into one large glass for consumption
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
.like Halfords used to do but no longer support
Hi Mick.
Sorry - I'm a bit late to this thread.
I bought some Land Rover Bronze Green in spray cans from Halfords only about a month ago. I had to go to their service section and ask them to mix it which they did while I waited. The only difficulty was that they really need a vehicle VIN number to match, which I don't have. In view of this I simply asked them to mix to a Land Rover Bronze Green from their recipe book which they did.
So far these cans are unused so I can't tell you how good they are - just that they are still available. They are also expensive - over £20 for two spray cans.
I should now apologise to Warren - earlier this year I promised to have a go at air brushing with celly and I've yet to do so.
Brian
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Brian,
Cheers, that's not a bad price actually, I reckon around £10 a can these days or £15-18 if posted.
Do you know if the paint is an acrylic or cellulose? I might pop to the local store tomorrow and see what they can do, just preferably need an acrylic to cover this tender really.
Best Mick
Cheers, that's not a bad price actually, I reckon around £10 a can these days or £15-18 if posted.
Do you know if the paint is an acrylic or cellulose? I might pop to the local store tomorrow and see what they can do, just preferably need an acrylic to cover this tender really.
Best Mick
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Well, I'm getting a nice collection of cans to test with
, so I'll try and use the same base coat but try another etch primer first, maybe this Halfords Etch8 and then spray each green and see what happens. Of course a can is not the best subject matter, no nooks and crannies and I've found those to be the Achilles heel of spray paints, quite a lot puddle in crevices but only the carrier solvent, not the paint, though some of that might be technique as well.
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Mick, I'm sure if you do a search online you will find somebody who does a BS colour as an acrylic spray.
I once had H**fords do me some land rover deep bronze green! it came out almost grey, so beware! although i think it was the YTS girl that mixed it
alcazar
Guest
Might be an idea to go onto www.yell.com, enter "Motor vehicle paint supplies", and see what turns up.
Even Scunthorpe has a decent one.......
Even Scunthorpe has a decent one.......