Metropolitan Class C OO gauge
- Thread starter Jarmstro
- Start date
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
I doubt it
. I think you'll end up with two C class 0-4-4T locos as there are noticeable differences between the original and rebuilt versions. The 3DP body available is for the original version albeit with some details missing.
Jarmstro
Western Thunderer
Oh, I think I'm done Dave once I've cobbled together a C. Yes I am aware of the variations but I am not a scratch builder . Can I find an OO gauge Ramsbottom safety valve? No I can't. And that's the problem. And with the very sad demise of Markits that's the end also for me. (I spoke to him, at length, a week before he went into hospital. I reckon my Class G wheelset must be one of the last he sent out.) Also Allen from Worsley Works has packed it in. I am sick of this plastic, brittle 3D rubbish. My side of the hobby is dead sadly. Still, once I get this built I've got the full house so I'll concentrate on electrifying the bogies where necessary.I doubt it
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PS The 3D print is at best a guess. Mine will depend on whether I can find some Ramsbottom safety valves. I'll email Bachmann to see if they can supply a one as a spare part..Or I need to find what was the cheapest RTR model with Ramsbottom valves and try and buy a scrap one.
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Paul Tomlinson
Western Thunderer
John, re the safety valve - as well as a few of the closed or shrouded types, Alan Gibson list an M.R. Ramsbottom S/V Open Type, ref. 4M728 - I'd guess it'd be similar to the lower photo in post #22 showing the rebuilt loco? I'd check first whether it was for a belpaire or round-topped firebox... If I were looking, I'd drop them an email with a picture of what you're seeking, in case they have something suitable. HTH.
Jarmstro
Western Thunderer
Thanks so much for that. I'll try Alan Gibson. I need some more medium handrail knobs in any case. PS Email sent. EDIT Had a email back and it's just the job. Thank you for the heads up.
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Jarmstro
Western Thunderer
Right! Back on track. I am very grateful to Paul Tomlinson for pointing me towards the safety valves. I'll rub it down once the primer has set and get rid of the thing on the top of the dome.(I'm reciting the phrase I MUST not drop it once I've filled it with lead. )
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Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
If you wanted to strengthen the body a bit one solution is to apply a thin veneer of epoxy resin in the interior ensuring it doesn't interfere with any fixing points, motor and any other chassis fittings.
Jarmstro
Western Thunderer
It's a runner after the usual fight with the bogie wheel clearances. Still, I'm on the home straight now...Don't know why the paint on the boiler looks so pitted in the photo? Looks OK to me on the model itself and it will improve once it sets and it's varnished. To be honest my eyesight is now very poor. PS I wish I could find a source for some weak springs for the bogie. Not just for this loco but for all of the locos I've built.
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Jarmstro
Western Thunderer
I won't drop this one. (Famous last words!) But these resin prints are very brittle. You can drill them and rub them down but you can't snip bits off. And you can't drop them. Not the ideal solution for model railways IMO.
simond
Western Thunderer
This is true, resin prints seem particularly prone to brittle failure (they’ll flex, quite extraordinarily if done slowly, but any kind of shock, and you get a free jigsaw) whereas FDM prints are extremely tough, and can be treated with disdain, but you can’t easily file them, or adjust them as they go sort-of furry, as they partially delaminate.
Horses for courses.
best
Simon
Horses for courses.
best
Simon
Phil O
Western Thunderer
Have you considered cutting old Biro springs down? It may take a bit of experimenting to find the ideal length.
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Have a look at Prime Minuiatures on the well known auction site. Compression springs are available in various lengths and diameters.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13135375...4HoW2tqxp/Ad7pZdAmpHF78Nc=|tkp:Bk9SR4CYx6D4Zw
When searching t'interweb look for Micro Miniature Small Compression Springs.
Jarmstro
Western Thunderer
Yes. But the last time I did it my wife caught me and I was punished severely..
Jarmstro
Western Thunderer
I'll check it out. Thanks. But usually I find that they are just too strong...
simond
Western Thunderer
Cutting down springs does not make them softer, it makes them stiffer, but reduces the preload at a given compressed length.
Slaters do at least two small springs in packs of 12. I’m not sure if they do larger ones.
Most Amazon “spring selections” are far too big and far too stiff for our needs
atb
Simon
Phil O
Western Thunderer
Simon,
I know that it doesn't soften them, but it does make them shorter, so does reduce the downward force. You can also soften them by heating them to reduce the temper, but you need to very careful not to over do it, especially with springs that small.