JLTRT Class 44 Build

[Andrew Thompson]

Irvine we have a problem.

See attached photos of the present position .I glued the sides on but failed to check whether the cabs fitted (never thought ) . If I had checked before hand would have removed some plastic from the roof edges to ensure the correct high was maintained ,me thinks to late now .Tried adding plastic card to make up the gap but doesn't look right so unless I can unglue the CA looks like I will have to reduce the sides and re position the fuel holes .Any suggestions on how to unglue happy to listen to .

 

[Andrew Thompson]

Forgot the photos

 

[lancer1027]

Will be watching this thread with interest.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Yes me too! ........sorry no experience of separating Cyno though, although I do believe you can buy de-activator for some types?

 

[Andrew Thompson]

I don't think trying to unglue the roof is a goer so will shave a couple of mls of the sides .
I am not happy with the paint job on the cab bulkheads so any suggestions for removing enamel so I can have another go . Thought of Nitromoss but not sure whether this would attack the resin ,any thoughts.

Andrew

 

[Heather Kay]

Andrew, I'm finding Phoenix Precision PQ18 SuperStrip works a treat on most kinds of paint and most surfaces. If you can dunk the bulkheads in the stuff, it'll start to shift the paint in a matter of minutes. I have been stripping some badly painted GWR coaches, using an old toothbrush, dipped in and scrubbed on.

It seems to be based on IPA, so you might try some of that if you have any about.

Usual disclaimer, just a satisfied customer.

 

[richard carr]

I think you let Laurie know what has happened send him those photos (don't tell him to look on WT) and see what he suggests, in theory their guarantee should replace everything for you if necessary, I have had coach sides replaced before without any quibble after I damaged them, so you might be surprised what he offers. Trying to unglue it will be difficult.

Richard

 

[Dog Star]

I think you let Laurie know what has happened send him those photos (don't tell him to look on WT) and see what he suggests, in theory their guarantee should replace everything for you if necessary, I have had coach sides replaced before without any quibble after I damaged them, so you might be surprised what he offers.

I shall second this advice, Laurie has replaced parts on several occasions because the part is either mis-shapen or spolit (by me). Take a photo square on to the lower edge so that there is no mistaking the mis-match.

 

[Cliff Williams]

Stick it in the freezer for a few hours and then gently apply opposing pressure to the joints, they will ping, even with the most liberal application of cyano.
I once had to do this and I think I even applied some hot water to it immediately after the freezing.

 

[Andrew Thompson]

Thanks for all the advice .
In retrospect I shouldn't have glued the cabs on as I knew at that stage there was a problem and should have contacted Laurie so don't feel justified in returning the parts now. Having spoken to the owner he can live with the fuel holes not been in the correct place by a few mls .So I have taken my scrawer and removed the excess .I may still move the body holes but not sure whether anyone will notice once painted etc. . (see attached photos) . Just some fine sanding required to make good .
Andrew

 

[Phill Dyson]

Hi Andrew

I assume from your avatar that your a BR (WR) man....just wondering why you chose a 44 for your Peak?

Looking forward to the next instalment

Phill

 

[Andrew Thompson]

Phill

Building it for a friend who lost his mojo . Then back to my own JLTRT Western ,Tower warship, and Class 22 SB. As this build has given me new impetus to get these projects finished .

Andrew

 

[lancer1027]

Hi Andrew,

Hope to see these loco builds on your workbench

Rob

 

[Andrew Thompson]

A bit more progress .
A) Bogies wired and tested .
B) Various fittings added
C)Pony trucks ready for soldering.
D) Bogie side steps added . I had intended to drill holes and solder pegs in place as additional strengther's ,but had difficulty drilling the castings . Advised probably cheap drill and to much speed ,in the end solder two wires per step under the treads as additional fixings ,drilled the frames and super glued in place .Nice firm fix and shouldn't easily get knocked off .

Advice now required folks

I now realise that I will have to remove the axle stubs of the slaters wheels as they are stopping the bogie frames from fitting . I don't possess a lathe or grinder so is my only option to take a hacksaw to the offending items . All previous builds had stub axles so never even thought about it .

Andrew

 

[adrian]

I now realise that I will have to remove the axle stubs of the slaters wheels as they are stopping the bogie frames from fitting . I don't possess a lathe or grinder so is my only option to take a hacksaw to the offending items . All previous builds had stub axles so never even thought about it .

The axles are probably just mild steel so a hacksaw or piercing saw would work fine. That said being Preston based myself, I have a small workshop with lathe, pillar drill and pendant drill you are more than welcome to use if it helps. Or drop the axles off and I can trim them for you.

 

[Andrew Thompson]

Adrian .
Thanks for the offer much appreciated but as I had to super glue some of the derlin gears in place , will try the hacksaw /piercing saw route first .

Andrew

 

[Brian Daniels]

For christ sake don't remove the ends of the Slaters wheels you have as they are the pony wheels and should be there! I take it you mean the main wheels which look like Roxey? I just snipe the ends off with an old Xuron side cutter then file the end flat.

 

[Dog Star]

... don't remove the ends of the Slaters wheels you have as they are the pony wheels and should be there!

Brian, are there any axleboxes on the outside of the pony wheels? As I cannot see axleboxes for the pony wheels then what is the purpose of that plain journal?

thank you, Graham

 

[SteadyRed]

Graham

The axle ends on the pony wheels of BR classes 40, 44, 45 & 46 all stand proud of the bogie wheel.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/86020500@N06/7999486414

Dave

 

[Brian Daniels]

The pony axles are supported inside, like your model, that's what those two big lumps are doing on the bufferbeam.

To make the vacuum pipe look right try to insert it into the round moulding on the cylindrical bit to it's left.