4mm Jan's 4mm WB: Hello, Old Friend

[Lyndhurstman]

All Ends Up
The weekend overtime has - for once - paid dividends to the Works.

The picture above (another example of the Crewe L Enlargement technique) shows a more fixated finale to the Palbrick. In order to make firm the end, we’ve drilled and pinned all four corners (0.3mm) before dropping some Henkel (Loctite to you and me, but the pun is all, here. Even if it is weak) on it. We’ve also started to fill the offending gaps twixt the uneven whitemetal end platform and the strengtheners with some Squadron White. This will be sanded, I’m sure. But that’s a job for another day. This one is done, for us.

Here’s a shot of the days doings from a more tolerable distance:


Cheers

Jan

 

[matto21]

Cracking work! Whose buffers will you be using? Does the kit come with something or will they be from Lanarkshire Models?

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Cracking work! Whose buffers will you be using? Does the kit come with something or will they be from Lanarkshire Models?

Hello Matt,
Thank you. It’s certainly testing my patience; it would have been easier to build one from scratch, I think Or buy one of the 3D printed versions...

Yes.. I’ll probably use some LMS units. These two were part-built from someone on EBay, and I had to wreck the headstocks getting the glue apart!

As to specifics; Rowland has them at 1’ 6”. And V2 of Larkin has some B’s with 4 ribs, and some with 2. As well as some B with Oleo’s... so plenty to choose from (but the Oleo C’s were built between November ‘59 and June ‘61 - so maybe a tad too close to MIB fresh for us).

Cheers

Jan

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Slow Ahead Both
Not much to show today. Nothing momentous. Just some work on one bufferbeam.

The buffers are LMS B006 (1’6” 2 rib, 13” head). The coupling hook is LMS CH04 (rectangular mounting plate). I’ve just twigged that we’ve got ahead of ourselves, and fitted the hook without opening the hole for the link. The bufferbeam itself is Plastruct 90534 - 5/32” channel with one side cut off and filed down to bring it down to the 9” depth required.
I would note that the shadow between the baseplate and the bufferbeam suggests that there’s a deal of overhang where there shouldn’t be. You’ll have to believe us when we say it looks worse than it is.

We’ve also moved the inner strengthening plates on the adjuster end closer together. Looking down on the top of the assembly highlighted that the initial construction was too disparate.

Cheers

Jan

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Cleansed
The things you do... Maybe we’re mugs.
We’ve had a few mad moments putting together a Scale Model Scenery pallet. 7 laser cut components stacked in three layers. One pallet is approximately equal to one @jonte in surface area... Only another 5 to go...

Cheers

Jan

 

[jonte]

Cleansed
The things you do... Maybe we’re mugs.
We’ve had a few mad moments putting together a Scale Model Scenery pallet. 7 laser cut components stacked in three layers. One pallet is approximately equal to one @jonte in surface area... Only another 5 to go...
View attachment 107684
Cheers

Jan

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Braking News
The Palbrick gets some help to halt.
The undergear is FourMost Models (ABS) D121 whitemetal Morton from Stores. I’ve taken the piercing saw to the brake loops and replaced them with reconfigured staples (the old tricks are the best: they make you feel like a ‘real’ modeller, and connect you with the past masters of the hobby). The V hangers are from Bill Bedford’s RCH 10ft fret (CES901). There will be a vacuum cylinder and actuator - all part of the FourMost consignment. And a cross-shaft from sub-1mm brass. We shall use the kit brake levers, as well; there’s been so much compromise in this construction, it seems silly to go mad and add closer to scale thickness components.


Cheers

Jan

 

[AJC]

Hi Jan,

That’s scrubbing up surprisingly well. The proposed compromise with the brake levers makes sense, too: this way it’ll look ‘of a piece’, which is the point, after all. Better tidy throughout than refined in parts, I think.

Adam

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Hi Jan,

That’s scrubbing up surprisingly well. The proposed compromise with the brake levers makes sense, too: this way it’ll look ‘of a piece’, which is the point, after all. Better tidy throughout than refined in parts, I think.

Adam

Thanks, Adam. You’re very kind. Yes; looking ‘of a piece’ is very much the mindset here.

Here’s two sides of the same coin. Not sure about its value, mind...
As threatened, I’ve added the vac cylinder and linkage, and - after backwards and forwardsing for half a lifetime - committed the levers to their respective sides. I’m prevaricating about fitting tiebars between the axleboxes; my scouring says that some Morton’d B’s had ‘em, and some didn’t..

Cheers

Jan

 

[AJC]

As threatened, I’ve added the vac cylinder and linkage, and - after backwards and forwardsing for half a lifetime - committed the levers to their respective sides. I’m prevaricating about fitting tiebars between the axleboxes; my scouring says that some Morton’d B’s had ‘em, and some didn’t..

Cheers

Jan

Fitted Morton brake 10' wheelbase vehicles certainly should have tiebars and I've yet to find a Morton-fitted Palbrick without.

Adam

 

[jonte]

Modelling don’t come much real-er than this, my friend.

Like a fine wine lost on my Mars Bar palate, much of this is wasted on the likes of me. Shame really. But ain’t that what WT’s all about?

Btw, looks I’d do myself an injury trying to lift it. Substantial.

Bestest,

Jonte

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Fitted Morton brake 10' wheelbase vehicles certainly should have tiebars and I've yet to find a Morton-fitted Palbrick without.

Adam

Hello Adam,

OK. Thanks! I may have confused myself in this; it wouldn't be the first time! I was probably looking at the clasp-braked variants.

Cheers

Jan

Modelling don’t come much real-er than this, my friend.

Like a fine wine lost on my Mars Bar palate, much of this is wasted on the likes of me. Shame really. But ain’t that what WT’s all about?

Btw, looks I’d do myself an injury trying to lift it. Substantial.

Bestest,

Jonte

Hi Jonte,

Thanks. I have to say I do wonder why I do it! But I know - and appreciate - that it stops me thinking about the slathering, howling, rabid world that lies beyond the TTR door. So I'll keep on keeping on. With or without MoJo. WT is a great help, for me. It's full of good things, and good people, and bloody fine modelling. And there's alwas something to learn.

Yes; it's a fair weight. But despite the weight, it runs nicely on the MJT units - maybe it pays not having pinpoint axles

Cheers

Jan

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Coupling
Here’s the Rumney Models screw link fitted to the Palbrick.

Nickel silver, and the fret comes with 8 potential lengths of loop to suit individual requirements - just right for this neck of the woods.

There are 3 layers to the boss, and the holes are 0.5mm. We’ve erred on the long side with the loops here, as the curve on the outside slip is a bit tight. We’ve also used 0.3mm NS in the pins - rather than 0.5 as per instructions, to give a bit of flexibility.

A good compromise:
1. a bit of a fiddle to construct - you really need two 0.5mm drills for the assembly of the boss
2. cheap, and
3. quickly delivered.

The first also applies to the Exactoscale version. But the second definitely not!
And the third.... ah.... if only Masokits were easy to access...

Bottom line: they look the part, and can be moved. Fundamentally, A Good Thing.

One down; one to go...

Cheers

Jan

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Worked Out

The Palbrick is done. We’ve finished off the build by adding the tiebars (1mm NS strip).
We’ve added a scribed floor of 10 thou plasticard, and 5 thou representation of the central retaining pillar.

We tried to fit the rope cleats - there should be 3 per side - but gave upon them, as they were found to be beyond the most extreme values of Faff. Ditto with the inside framing for the forklift holes in the side. We’re not anywhere near the levels of Mr Kent’s skill - and patience.

In the queue for the Paint Shop Boys it goes.

Our best to you all

Jan

 

[matto21]

That looks excellent!

 

[jonte]

Well done, chaps!

You must be extremely pleased, Jan

Jonte

 

[Lyndhurstman]

That looks excellent!

Thanks, Matt. It’s come out reasonably well. We have an NS one on the books, too. A bit more State Of The Art than this one.

Well done, chaps!

You must be extremely pleased, Jan

Jonte

Thanks Chum,
Relieved, more than anything, I think!

Cheers
Jan

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Stages
The PSB have done their best with this heavily pierced sows ear.

The externals are Railmatch Freight Bauxite (235) and Weathered Black (412). Both need a bit of thinning; for which we’ve used Humbrol Enamel Thinners. We weren’t sure of the internal colour of the plywood sides, so we’ve decided to use 235 in there, too.

The floor is our freestyle jazz interpretation (we’re pretty hep cats, here) of almost-new wood. Based around Humbrol Matt 63 (Sand) with a bit of Matt 147 (Light Grey). Individual planks are picked out in HR103 (GWR Lining Cream). The whole floor was then dusted with Carr’s C1100 Weathering Powders - Rust & Coal. With more of the former than the latter.

Interestingly - in a response to a query regarding the loading of these glorified hods in MR - Paul Bartlett identifies that the traffic for these wagons (refractory bricks - like those used in loco fireboxes - rather than the normal building brick) diminished to a third of its size between 1958 and 1962, and so in their latter years are probably best represented empty.

Anyway. Numbering next. And then The Inspector Calls.

All the best

Jan

 

[jonte]

You’ve nailed the wood, Jan.

Colours noted

Jonte

 

[Lyndhurstman]

You’ve nailed the wood, Jan.

Colours noted

Jonte

Hello @jonte

Ba Boom Tish!

Thank you. Note away; I like how the deck has turned out. Not bad for a bit of scrawked Plasticard, even if I do say so myself!

The colours are what I had to hand. I seem to have eight different shades of Red Oxide, and a couple or tins of Dunkelgrau from my 1/35 days - some 40+ years ago!

Thanks again

Cheers

Jan