Any chance of a picture of your crank pin approach please ? The second picture shows me dropping some loctite on and then once it goes off the cheese head is removed and I intended to use some CPL nuts.
Mick
Mick, looking at my models most of the crankpins being represented are the early fixed type with split brasses in the coupling rods instead of the ring and cotter retained latter type. The filed down screws look like this -
To replicate this -
And the underframe of a Hawthorn 0-4-2T long term shelf queen with turned down Slaters 4' diameter wheels.
Using the standard Slaters wheels I sink the brass nut into the rear of the wheel but this in not necessary with the S7 Group wheels. I nearly always have to use the smaller 1.5mm diameter bushes to fit in the small coupling and connecting rods used on the earlier locomotives instead of the larger bushes supplied with most Slaters wheels. The bushes are mounted so the 'rim' is against the wheel centre and the filed down screw head retains the rods without a washer. To represent the ring and cotter retainer I would turn the screw head to the shape of the prototype ring instead of just filing it flat.
I hope that helps. Sorry Simon for the thread highjack.