Intentio 7mm SR Concrete Provender Store

[Pencarrow]

This isn't the next post but a funny(?) story.

At the end of day one, with the roof panels temporarily fitted and the building all primed up, my other half came in and said "wow, you've done that really quickly, looks great". She didn't stop there though, and a question followed... "So why do all your other buildings take many months to do?".

I did point out that this was a kit, where all the hard work had been done, and my other buildings were scratch built but I think this subtle difference was lost... Why do I bother??

 

[Phil O]

Chris,

Just an off the cuff thought, could the wall and roof structure be glued together, without glueing the walls to the floor and thus gain access to the interior that way?

 

[Pencarrow]

This is the referred to next post.

So on to the roofing. This is provided for on the kit by what I can best describe as single faced corrugated cardboard. It's been perforated to give the impression of panel joints and comes in a single sheet for each side.


The intention in the kit is for this to be applied in one piece. If done so it looks like this:


Now, wearing my best "Captain Deviation" pants and cape, I decided that, with only a minor change I could add a little relief between horizontal rows of sheets. I carefully folded it along the horizontal perforations to break the joint on the corrugated side.


Turned it over.


And using minimal pressure and a new blade, cut through the rear backing.


Giving three separate strips.


On the lower surface of the upper two strips, a strip of paper was glued. One occasion where junk mail comes in useful.


Glue was sparingly applied to the roof and the three strips applied. Starting at the top with the narrow strip pushed hard to the ridge dowel.


With all three strips attached, the roof looked like this.


At a glance, very similar to the original flat sheet, but with a hint of relief between rows to imply sheets being overlapped. A small difference but worth doing IMO.

Obviously, this is a personal preference and not one that's required or necessary.

 

[Pencarrow]

Chris,

Just an off the cuff thought, could the wall and roof structure be glued together, without glueing the walls to the floor and thus gain access to the interior that way?

That was another option I considered but I discounted due to the sheer number of tabs and slots needing to be aligned each time. The bottom of the L shaped posts in particular are quite thin and they are a tight fit between the floor beams. I couldn't see them lasting well if the walls were removed multiple times from the floor.

I have made some of my own scratch built buildings in the past so the the walls and roof sit on /over the floor and interior. I just didn't think it was practical in this case.

In contrast, I'm finding the separate roof very easy and quick to take on and off.

 

[MarkR]

Hi Chris,
Enjoying your build, the tool looks interesting, can you provide a bit of detail on it please? Thank you
Mark

 

[Pencarrow]

Hi Chris,
Enjoying your build, the tool looks interesting, can you provide a bit of detail on it please? Thank you
MarkView attachment 219615

Certainly Mark, it's a very useful tool made by Tamiya, particularly if working with plasticard. The cutting edge is on the rear of the blade so it cuts as you pull the tool towards you. The blade is more like a chisel than a knife and removes a grove of material with each pass.

The blurb says this "Tamiya Plastic Scriber II Craft Tool: This tool is perfect for tasks such as scoring and cutting plastic sheets, creating mould lines on model parts, and modifying Mini 4WD machines. The blade can be retracted after use and two spare blades are also stored inside the handle."

Mine is quite old now but the current version seems to be this:


Also excellent for general distressing plasticard...

 

[MarkR]

Hi Chris,
Many thanks, just added to my eBay basket! They also do a pin chuck, which will be useful when I replace the 0.88 m (!) diameter spokes with 0.30 mm brass wire on my 1/18 1934 Aston Martin Ulster, should be interesting!
Mark

 

[Pencarrow]

Hi Chris,
Many thanks, just added to my eBay basket! They also do a pin chuck, which will be useful when I replace the 0.88 m (!) diameter spokes with 0.30 mm brass wire on my 1/18 1934 Aston Martin Ulster, should be interesting!
Mark

Happy to help.

 

[Pencarrow]

Whilst that lot was setting I decided to have a crack at the platform canopy.

There's the roof and seven ribs on the thin, dark hardboard sheet and the two supports from the thicker MDF.


Obviously the tabs on the supports go into the slots in the roof. The seven ribs fit between the lasered pairs of lines.


I decided to glue the five central ribs before fitting the two supports. I left the outer two ribs off to make filling and sanding down the tabs easier. The parts in the white sheet are designed to go either side of the supports under the roof.


The supports were glued in, with the tabs proving to be just proud of the roof top. There were also a few gaps around the tab, so filling and sanding would definitely be needed.


To start, a spot of extra glue, left to set.


A spot of filing the glue down.


Still a few gaps, so in with some filler. More sanding and then fitting the outer two ribs.


The canopy fits into slots in the underside of the door opening, formed by sticking a short MDF piece in the upper edge of the door opening.

 

[Pencarrow]

Steps can always be a bit tricky and prone to ending up twisted or out of alignment. Here it was a simple case of putting another six parts from the thin brown hardboard sheet together and then using the MDF block from the ground /baseplate to keep them straight and true whilst drying.









Steps is steps, not many words needed.

I did find that Phil needs to make a small adjustment to the position of the step base in the ground sheet. Apparently this is the result of a late design change and will be corrected in production kits.


The steps have tabs that engage in slots in the floor beams. A nice touch, but it highlights the importance of making sure you have the beam with the slots on the right side of the platform.

 

[Pencarrow]

Doors, four to make up. All the parts come again from the thin brown hardboard sheet.

The main door face and framework parts are all detailed with planking on one side only. So the first decision is to decide if your doors will be open or closed. Depending on what you decide, the rear door framework is glued on one or other of the door faces. There's also rain strips to add at the base of the door.

Parts.


The sides that will be seen, with the planking detail on the door faces, are seen below. Note that the diagonals go from hinge side (low) to door edge (high).


The side that won't be seen, with the blank door faces are shown below.

 

[Pencarrow]

The last bits to fit to the vanilla kit were the two barge boards and four strips from the hardboard sheet in the vertical corners as seen on the shots below.









The idea is that the kit shell is painted up and then the detailing parts seem below are fitted afterwards. This makes painting much easier and joints between colours crisper.


That's it then....

 

[Pencarrow]

Or is it? Feel free to skip the next few posts if you want to just build and finish the kit as provided.

I didn't as I can't really help myself. So here's a run through of some of the adjustments I made...

Here's a photo extract from Southern Nouveau for illustrative purposes showing the frontage of the platform. Looks like an old cast off sleeper to me.


The MDF piece by comparison looked too tall and a bit too neat and tidy.


I therefore decided to cut a strip off the bottom, leaving a sleeper about 12" tall. I added blocks under the sleeper as per the photo and then distressed the MDF to make it a bit more knackered looking.



I then looked at the road vehicle opening as below. Again obviously an old sleeper, complete with impression from a chair base.


I hadn't fixed the original kit part so cut it down and distressed it.


From talking to Phil I think he's considering making these changes to the kit and including a couple of his old sleeper parts.

 

[BrushType4]

The kits now include three used sleepers for this purpose and the original mdf parts are deleted from the kit.

 

[Pencarrow]

The kits now include three used sleepers for this purpose and the original mdf parts are deleted from the kit.

Smashing, I think that will be a really nice enhancement. It does mean however that "Captain Deviation" in his scratch built pants and cape will have to find something else to personalise this kit...

 

[BrushType4]

I won’t be putting anymore interior details in the kit so you’ve all the interior planking you can add?

 

[paulc]

Hi Chris , what are the dangly bits that hang either side of the overhanging porch , they look like the bumpers that guys would put on old 32 ford hotrods .

 

[Pencarrow]

Hi Chris , what are the dangly bits that hang either side of the overhanging porch , they look like the bumpers that guys would put on old 32 ford hotrods .

Hi Paul, good question.

I actually think they were welded tubular steel frames that supported the roof on the prototype. Two bars seemed to run between them, parallel to the front, and the roof sheet was bolted to that.

On the model the representations of the welded tubular steel frames wouldn't be robust enough to hold up the roof and I imagine it being damaged the first time someone breathed on it. As a reasonable compromise, the kit has the two solid supports coming out of the doorway.

The canopy roof slopes back towards the main building and there was a gutter between the two that extended to a downpipe on the corner opposite the steps. I'll be adding this feature to my model.

 

[Pencarrow]

I won’t be putting anymore interior details in the kit so you’ve all the interior planking you can add?

Hi Phil, really enjoying the kit build so far and it's built into a smashing little(ish) building.

Because it's what I enjoy doing, there's a few more details that I'm going to add, including:

# drilling a third bolt hole in the ends of the floor beams
# adding plastic rod in the appropriate holes in the floor beams to simulate bolts
# making and adding hinges, handles and locks to the doors
# fabricating and adding a representation of the horizontal wooden strapping that was fixed to the interior walls. In hindsight, I should have painted the interior walls and fixed this strapping before gluing the walls to the floor
# adding the gutter and downpipe referenced in the reply to Paul above
# adding some details to the wooden dowel that forms the ridge to represent joints
# adding some paper overlays to the edges of the roof to represent the L shaped sheet edge detail

I'm also contemplating having a play to see if I can amend the canopy roof to make it look like those tubular steel frames are doing the holding up rather than the MDF supports. I'm thinking of attaching brass rod to the roof underside and drilling holes in the front wall to structurally support the roof, then very carefully adding the tubular steel frames underneath with one edge touching the wall.

I may make a replacement structure to start with so, if it all goes pear shaped, I've still got the original canopy. I will however be sacrificing the strength and robustness of the kit for something that will be more prone to damage and note this won't be everyone's cup of tea.

For others reading this, I must stress these additions are purely personal and aren't intended as a criticism of the kit as supplied, which I still think is great. All in all, nothing major but hopefully just gilding the lily, so to speak.

 

[Osgood]

Hi Chris , what are the dangly bits that hang either side of the overhanging porch , they look like the bumpers that guys would put on old 32 ford hotrods .

Lightbulb moment:

Thats what Captain Deviation could do - a full hot rod job on the provender store.
With its MDF construction it lends itself ideally to being cut, shut, chopped, dropped, shaved, slammed - and even Frenched if outside lights are envisaged.

Hang on, did I forget my medication last night?