Insulating the loco body from the frame?

[WM183]

Hello folks.

So... uh, yeah. How do you all insulate the bodies of your locomotives from the frames? I... have no idea how to do this!

Amanda

 

[richard carr]

Hi Amanda

It's very easy, you don't, I have never done it.

Richard

 

[Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen]

As Richard has said avoid having to do it but if there isno alternative sellotape on the flat surfaces that touch the frames works quite well.

Tim

 

[PhilH]

Presumably this is because you're using split frame electrical pick up. I've done it once by using thin paper fixed with varnish - coat the underside of the footplate (and inside the bufferbeams if these are attached to the footplate) with varnish, apply the layer of paper and varnish over the surface. If the bufferbeams are fixed to the footplate make sure there's enough clearance between them and the end of the frames for the paper layer.

 

[WM183]

I am using split frame pickup... isn't that the norm for 2mm? Quite confused.

 

[PhilH]

I am using split frame pickup... isn't that the norm for 2mm? Quite confused.

I don't know what the norm is for 2mm, I work in 7mm scale but the principle should be the same

​

This was done about 40 years ago and the body has been off and on several times - 2 new motors, DCC sound etc, with no problems. You can probably just make out the roughness of the paper surface under the footplate but of course it doesn't show normally.
The frames are fitted together with perspex blocks and the brake cross beams are pcb material with the copper removed.

 

[Andrewnummelin]

Kapton tape is a good option.

 

[Bob Essex]

For testing with the bodies in plain metal a layer of masking tape is good. Once the bodies have had a coat of primer and top coat then that is all the insulation I normally use.

Bob

 

[WM183]

I was concerned that shorts between the body and the split chassis were very common. I would be happy if that weren't so!

 

[garethashenden]

If using a split chassis the frames do need to be isolated from the body, if the body is metal. In the 2mm world cigarette rolling paper is common, as its thin and readily available. Cut a piece to size, fit it to the underside of the footplate, and soak it with cyanoacrylate. Once its dry its easy to trim openings for motors/gears/et cetera.

 

[Bob Essex]

Not sure how the chassis is constructed re frame spacers but you do need to ensure that the central portion -where the retaining screws/bolts go - is of course isolated from both chassis frames. Just one cut down the centre of the pcb spacers is not enough.

Bob

 

[WM183]

Hi guys.

Ive insulated the center of all the copper clad spacers with cuts near both sides. I've checked to be sure theyre isolated - and the frames isolated from each other - with a multimeter. From here out... new shorts are new!

Thanks for the help. Ill use the cig paper for insulation. Everyone seems to have them on hand here in Holland for some reason...

Amanda

 

[DavidB]

Insulating tape. The clue is in the name!

 

[Allen M]

A sheet of 5th plasticard on the underside of the footplate.

Allen

 

[Ian Smith]

Amanda,
As has been suggested, I always use cigarette papers. I tend to put it on the underside of the footplate and if necessary within the splashers. Cut to size then fixed with thin cyanoacrylate - being thin the glue soaks through the paper and fixes the paper to the metal. Once cured the glue stiffens the paper allowing excess to be cut away with a sharp scalpel.
Ian

 

[simond]

Insulating tape. The clue is in the name!

No! It does insulate, of course, but it’s useless stuff, at least the modern stuff.

The tape shrinks and wrinkles and the glue oozes out, stains everything, makes your hands and everything they touch sticky, and does not adhere the damn tape to the object to which you applied it.

Never, ever, ever, rely on horrid, useless, unpleasant and, did I mention, useless? insulating tape!

Kapton is a different kettle of fish. That works.

 

[Ian@StEnochs]

No! It does insulate, of course, but it’s useless stuff, at least the modern stuff.

The tape shrinks and wrinkles and the glue oozes out, stains everything, makes your hands and everything they touch sticky, and does not adhere the damn tape to the object to which you applied it.

Never, ever, ever, rely on horrid, useless, unpleasant and, did I mention, useless? insulating tape!

Kapton is a different kettle of fish. That works.

I guess you don't like insulating tape Simon!
However it can have it's uses.
Way back in the dim and distant past it was advocated as a matetrial for making boiler bands. I used it a few times and illustrate here a model sporting them. Built in 1975 the bands are still there though the white paint I carefully applied, much better eysight then, to the edges has faded somewhat.
As I recall the tape was stuck to a sheet if glass, lined, then cut with a razor blade and applied to the model.
Ian.

 

[simond]

That was then, in the good old days!

The modern stuff on general sale is appalling leaving a slimy tacky layer on everything except the damn tape!

 

[WM183]

I worked for an alarm company for quite a number of years in the late 90s and early 2000s. The black "electrical tape" always turned into gooey nasty slime.

Horrid stuff!