Hunslet Works in 7mm
- Thread starter Andy Ross
- Start date
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
Not sure what happened there but I have sorted it out
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
With the infill between the rails on the test tack done and dry, it was time to move on to completing all the cobbles and laying the plywood that will represent the concrete. The plywood had been proven on the internals of the building when it was painted and toned down.
The cobbles are engraved into MDF with the laser. The shaped sections around the point have been cut for a while. I started with these sections fixing them in place using No More Nails as it will fill in the gaps on the ballast etc
As well as the cobbles I started cutting the plywood sections. These are glued onto 3mm sections of ply using Evo Stick. The section next to the building includes holes and cutouts for fall pipes and grates.
The ply and the cobbles sit gust below rail level.
The tie bar on the point will have a removable cover to represent a steel cover. There is also a slot for a dummy point lever to sit in.
The straight section to the baseboard joint were straight forward. I just needed to make sure the holes for the down pipes were in the correct place.
I did need to engrave an cut some more cobble sections as when you add it all up there is quite a lot. It is quite a slow progress and you can see the laser doing the engraving in the video below.
https://youtu.be/PIOAOT8oSvQ
When I got onto the section where the track goes into the shed, it got a bit more complicated.
I cut some of the parts from the drawings. They were close but not good enough. The track was built in place on the drawing but somewhere along the line I must of moved of line slightly which is not surprising. So some carful measuring and redrawing was needed. Normally I do the drawing away from the layout but this needed the laptop in the garage.
The section on the inside of the curve was quite complicated.
The section outside the curve was surprisingly simple with only a few alterations from the original drawing.
I had hoped to get this all done over the weekend and I am pleased to say with the exception of a bit of fettling I did do it.
It has also completely changed the look of the layout.
I also tried the doors, some clay from the track infill had gone through the slots and stopped one from closing, this was removed and they work fine.
I am really pleased with how it looks with the doors closed. and how the slot almost disapears.
All that is left to do is the section inside the building.
Once this is done I will scribe in the joints in the concrete and get it all painted.
Andy
The cobbles are engraved into MDF with the laser. The shaped sections around the point have been cut for a while. I started with these sections fixing them in place using No More Nails as it will fill in the gaps on the ballast etc
As well as the cobbles I started cutting the plywood sections. These are glued onto 3mm sections of ply using Evo Stick. The section next to the building includes holes and cutouts for fall pipes and grates.
The ply and the cobbles sit gust below rail level.
The tie bar on the point will have a removable cover to represent a steel cover. There is also a slot for a dummy point lever to sit in.
The straight section to the baseboard joint were straight forward. I just needed to make sure the holes for the down pipes were in the correct place.
I did need to engrave an cut some more cobble sections as when you add it all up there is quite a lot. It is quite a slow progress and you can see the laser doing the engraving in the video below.
https://youtu.be/PIOAOT8oSvQ
When I got onto the section where the track goes into the shed, it got a bit more complicated.
I cut some of the parts from the drawings. They were close but not good enough. The track was built in place on the drawing but somewhere along the line I must of moved of line slightly which is not surprising. So some carful measuring and redrawing was needed. Normally I do the drawing away from the layout but this needed the laptop in the garage.
The section on the inside of the curve was quite complicated.
The section outside the curve was surprisingly simple with only a few alterations from the original drawing.
I had hoped to get this all done over the weekend and I am pleased to say with the exception of a bit of fettling I did do it.
It has also completely changed the look of the layout.
I also tried the doors, some clay from the track infill had gone through the slots and stopped one from closing, this was removed and they work fine.
I am really pleased with how it looks with the doors closed. and how the slot almost disapears.
All that is left to do is the section inside the building.
Once this is done I will scribe in the joints in the concrete and get it all painted.
Andy
John57sharp
Western Thunderer
It’s a real treat seeing this come together. Brilliant.
John
John
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
With all the yard MDF sets and the plywood for the concrete glued down it all needed painting.
From when I did the concrete inside the building, I made a note the base paint I used. As I have said before I use the Army Painters range, because these are for painting war gaming figures they have some interesting names, in this case Brainmatter Beige. I also thought this might work for the sets as well.
I painted a small area to do a trial with the beige and then used one of the washes called strong tone which is more brown than some of the others. Even thought the washers are very thin I added a small amount of thinners to it. This was to ensure it ran into the gaps in the sets.
The wash was applied with a brush. I was more than pleased with this so I took the plunge and painted the rest of the yard.
I also brush painted the concrete sections with the wash and to be honest I was not happy with it as I could not get rid of the brush marks.
I tried using thinners and wiping it down but this made it worse. So I used a sanding block and tock the top off the surface. This got rid of most of the marks.
So on the second attempt I decided to use the air brush.
This worked a lot better. You will also note that the concrete section was scribed before the wash was applied to represent the joints in the concrete .
I also still need to make some grates. I also let some of the wash go onto the bottom of the doors which has come out really well when dried.
I also added some darker wash to represent oil spills on both the test track and along the siding were there were always locos parked up for storage.
So after a bit of a false start I am now happy with the result so far. There will be a bit more to do as the buildings are put back on around fall pipes and other fixed items that are still to add.
I will be putting the buildings back onto the narrow board as I intend to take this to our exhibition in October as part of my 3d CAD demonstration at Leeds Grammar School 25th & 26th October. Go to Leeds Model Railway Society - our annual exhibition for details.
Andy
From when I did the concrete inside the building, I made a note the base paint I used. As I have said before I use the Army Painters range, because these are for painting war gaming figures they have some interesting names, in this case Brainmatter Beige. I also thought this might work for the sets as well.
I painted a small area to do a trial with the beige and then used one of the washes called strong tone which is more brown than some of the others. Even thought the washers are very thin I added a small amount of thinners to it. This was to ensure it ran into the gaps in the sets.
The wash was applied with a brush. I was more than pleased with this so I took the plunge and painted the rest of the yard.
I also brush painted the concrete sections with the wash and to be honest I was not happy with it as I could not get rid of the brush marks.
I tried using thinners and wiping it down but this made it worse. So I used a sanding block and tock the top off the surface. This got rid of most of the marks.
So on the second attempt I decided to use the air brush.
This worked a lot better. You will also note that the concrete section was scribed before the wash was applied to represent the joints in the concrete .
I also still need to make some grates. I also let some of the wash go onto the bottom of the doors which has come out really well when dried.
I also added some darker wash to represent oil spills on both the test track and along the siding were there were always locos parked up for storage.
So after a bit of a false start I am now happy with the result so far. There will be a bit more to do as the buildings are put back on around fall pipes and other fixed items that are still to add.
I will be putting the buildings back onto the narrow board as I intend to take this to our exhibition in October as part of my 3d CAD demonstration at Leeds Grammar School 25th & 26th October. Go to Leeds Model Railway Society - our annual exhibition for details.
Andy
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
It's been a few weeks since my last post.
I have been away on holiday for two weeks - on saying that I did take my lap top and when we had some persistent rain I did do a bit on a couple of etching drawings.
I must admit, I did not realise how many etched parts were still required for the buildings, but it is good these are now finished and I have just sent them off to PPD for pricing.
This includes the following.
The steel supports for the power house bridge.
The steel front panel and windows for the power house bridge - I have done this in two formats to see which is best.
The Boiler shop sliding door.
The cover for the toilet pipework
Two ducts and a few more small parts
You can see most of these in the photos below.
I have also included screen shots of the etches.
There are also some window frames for the front of the wheel shop.
It's been nearly two years since I sent anything for etching so it will be interesting to see how things come out.
It's also less than two weeks to the Leeds Exhibition where I will be demonstrating 2d and 3d CAD. I will also have the narrow board on display. if you come along you will be able to see the latest advancement with the building and the yard, including the laser etched cobbles/sets.
See link for details of the exhibition.
Leeds Model Railway Society - our annual exhibition
If you do come along, please say hello.
Andy
I have been away on holiday for two weeks - on saying that I did take my lap top and when we had some persistent rain I did do a bit on a couple of etching drawings.
I must admit, I did not realise how many etched parts were still required for the buildings, but it is good these are now finished and I have just sent them off to PPD for pricing.
This includes the following.
The steel supports for the power house bridge.
The steel front panel and windows for the power house bridge - I have done this in two formats to see which is best.
The Boiler shop sliding door.
The cover for the toilet pipework
Two ducts and a few more small parts
You can see most of these in the photos below.
I have also included screen shots of the etches.
There are also some window frames for the front of the wheel shop.
It's been nearly two years since I sent anything for etching so it will be interesting to see how things come out.
It's also less than two weeks to the Leeds Exhibition where I will be demonstrating 2d and 3d CAD. I will also have the narrow board on display. if you come along you will be able to see the latest advancement with the building and the yard, including the laser etched cobbles/sets.
See link for details of the exhibition.
Leeds Model Railway Society - our annual exhibition
If you do come along, please say hello.
Andy
Debs.
Western Thunderer
Wilco, Andy; 'looking forward to your demonstrations.
Mike Edge's excellent Wentworth Junc. will be another major attraction for me.
Debs.
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Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
Its been a little while since the last post.
There has been some activity but it has been a bit erratic.
I decided to make a panel for setting up the DCC locos. I got the Idea from Peter Kirmond who has a similar panel for his 2mm fine scale locos for his YORK layout, albeit a lot smaller.
I also had to include all the different gauges and it needs to be big enough for a main line Steam and Diesel locos.
This was designed around the Digitrax Zeper unit.
This was all cut on the laser.
I had to pause this for a while as I was waited for some rail I had ordered. I even stained it.
So while I waited for the Rail,I decided to build some cupboards and shelf units from the kits I designed.
The shelves have been toned down with a dark wash. I have attached a photo showing the cupboards in place as a reminder of where they will be fitted.
Once the rail arrived for the dcc panel I made the decision to recut the top panel to build the track on. this was to prevent damage with the iron to the panel.
I also cut some track gauges for all the gauges.
The rails are not at the same spacing as the layout but do provide the following gauges. 9, 14, 16.5, 21, 32 39mm. This will also work around one isolating gap.
I started with the inner rails. Then the outer ones.
The sleepers are only held in place with double sided tape.
The track will be removed from the piece of board and will be fixed in place on the panel with Evostic. You will note the gauge has a bar that locates on the edge of the board and this will be used to position the track on the panel.
I am hoping to get the panel wired and the track fixed in place in the next few day.
As for the layout itself, i need to get my act back together as I have removed so much for finishing or updating that I have found it hard to know what to do next.
The cupboards and the panel were on the list. Being able to cross something off the list of jobs should help with the motivation. The etches referred to in earlier posts have also arrived, so this will allow the yard building to be completed once all the parts are made up.
Andy
There has been some activity but it has been a bit erratic.
I decided to make a panel for setting up the DCC locos. I got the Idea from Peter Kirmond who has a similar panel for his 2mm fine scale locos for his YORK layout, albeit a lot smaller.
I also had to include all the different gauges and it needs to be big enough for a main line Steam and Diesel locos.
This was designed around the Digitrax Zeper unit.
This was all cut on the laser.
I had to pause this for a while as I was waited for some rail I had ordered. I even stained it.
So while I waited for the Rail,I decided to build some cupboards and shelf units from the kits I designed.
The shelves have been toned down with a dark wash. I have attached a photo showing the cupboards in place as a reminder of where they will be fitted.
Once the rail arrived for the dcc panel I made the decision to recut the top panel to build the track on. this was to prevent damage with the iron to the panel.
I also cut some track gauges for all the gauges.
The rails are not at the same spacing as the layout but do provide the following gauges. 9, 14, 16.5, 21, 32 39mm. This will also work around one isolating gap.
I started with the inner rails. Then the outer ones.
The sleepers are only held in place with double sided tape.
The track will be removed from the piece of board and will be fixed in place on the panel with Evostic. You will note the gauge has a bar that locates on the edge of the board and this will be used to position the track on the panel.
I am hoping to get the panel wired and the track fixed in place in the next few day.
As for the layout itself, i need to get my act back together as I have removed so much for finishing or updating that I have found it hard to know what to do next.
The cupboards and the panel were on the list. Being able to cross something off the list of jobs should help with the motivation. The etches referred to in earlier posts have also arrived, so this will allow the yard building to be completed once all the parts are made up.
Andy
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
Finished the DCC set/testing unit tonight.
Track was removed from temporary board used to build it on glued in place with Evostic using track gauges as guide to get it parallel to box.
First loco to be tried, Bachmann Quarry loco and the good news is it all works.
https://youtu.be/-d5FIC7vdtw
The box is also designed so I can put the power supply in for transporting.
At last something I can cross off on the list.
Andy
Track was removed from temporary board used to build it on glued in place with Evostic using track gauges as guide to get it parallel to box.
First loco to be tried, Bachmann Quarry loco and the good news is it all works.
https://youtu.be/-d5FIC7vdtw
The box is also designed so I can put the power supply in for transporting.
At last something I can cross off on the list.
Andy
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Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
This weekend has seen a start on putting the etches together that I received a couple of weeks back.
First up was the two extraction ducts.
These are designed with the tap system and sacrificial sections method I use on most etch designs.
I tried the first one in place as soon as I had done enough to enable me to try it in the holes in the building. `I fitted perfectly.
The two assemblies were finished and fettled.
Second was the cover that goes over the waste pipes coming from the toilets. This was a bit trickier being so long and I had to control the heat. I started from the middle and worked out.
The top plate went on last, but due to the angle this left quite a bit of material to be filled of to make it flush.
There are two pins that locate the cover onto the building.
See the photo below of the prototype for comparison.
The cuts outs for the fall pipes also appear to line up in the cover.
I also put the beam together that goes above the garage door.
There are two more beams to make up to go in the garage.
Andy
First up was the two extraction ducts.
These are designed with the tap system and sacrificial sections method I use on most etch designs.
I tried the first one in place as soon as I had done enough to enable me to try it in the holes in the building. `I fitted perfectly.
The two assemblies were finished and fettled.
Second was the cover that goes over the waste pipes coming from the toilets. This was a bit trickier being so long and I had to control the heat. I started from the middle and worked out.
The top plate went on last, but due to the angle this left quite a bit of material to be filled of to make it flush.
There are two pins that locate the cover onto the building.
See the photo below of the prototype for comparison.
The cuts outs for the fall pipes also appear to line up in the cover.
I also put the beam together that goes above the garage door.
There are two more beams to make up to go in the garage.
Andy
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Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
Since the last post I have been soldering up all the other parts I have had etched. Mainly for the support structure under the power house bridge.
Some of this is not that visible, but it will get caught in photos all being well looking down the yard.
The uprights are a bit tricky to build but they have come out looking like the originals.
The etch also had the boiler shop door on it. some of the parts had to be redrawn as I had got the rivet half etches on the wrong side and I missed some altogether.
You will also notice that I had redrawn the ducts that come out of the side of the shop. When I did the originals I guessed all the dimensions and although they looked ok and they would do for now I was not convinced I had got them right. My problem was that they were too deep. The plan was to leave them and redraw when I did some more etching. Due to the door errors I thought I would just get them done now.
If you compare this version against the photo of the real one in the photo below, they look a lot better.
The other thing I have done is a couple more little kits for details in the workshop.
These make up into charge hand desks.
I have ringed in the phot below the tall type which is just visible in the photo.
I stained these with some of the Army Painters washes.
I need to make something to look like the material lists etc to put into the slots in the back of the desk.
There should be some further updates over the holidays.
Andy
Some of this is not that visible, but it will get caught in photos all being well looking down the yard.
The uprights are a bit tricky to build but they have come out looking like the originals.
The etch also had the boiler shop door on it. some of the parts had to be redrawn as I had got the rivet half etches on the wrong side and I missed some altogether.
You will also notice that I had redrawn the ducts that come out of the side of the shop. When I did the originals I guessed all the dimensions and although they looked ok and they would do for now I was not convinced I had got them right. My problem was that they were too deep. The plan was to leave them and redraw when I did some more etching. Due to the door errors I thought I would just get them done now.
If you compare this version against the photo of the real one in the photo below, they look a lot better.
The other thing I have done is a couple more little kits for details in the workshop.
These make up into charge hand desks.
I have ringed in the phot below the tall type which is just visible in the photo.
I stained these with some of the Army Painters washes.
I need to make something to look like the material lists etc to put into the slots in the back of the desk.
There should be some further updates over the holidays.
Andy
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
Todays progress.
The power house bridge that comes out over the test track had a metal front and window frames. I had this etched but as you will see in the picture it is made up of panels riveted together.
To create this I half etched a strip the width of the lap plates for each joint, and then soldered riveted strips in. The only problem was that when soldering the strips in the heat from the 80w iron caused the panel to bend due to it absorbing all the heat. Sometime it went back when it cooled down, but other times I had to keep straightening it. I had the same issue soldering the strip on either side of the windows.
I placed the panel on the building and it looks the part.
I also put the door beam for the boiler shop door together.
After getting two of the layer re etched due to errors with rivets I have also laminated up the Boiler shop door that goes at the top of the yard. I learnt with the main doors that you can not solder these up and this was layered up using double sided adhesive sheets.
I have even managed to put a false man door into the layers and it all lined up.
You can see the man door in the photo of the prototype below.
Andy.
The power house bridge that comes out over the test track had a metal front and window frames. I had this etched but as you will see in the picture it is made up of panels riveted together.
To create this I half etched a strip the width of the lap plates for each joint, and then soldered riveted strips in. The only problem was that when soldering the strips in the heat from the 80w iron caused the panel to bend due to it absorbing all the heat. Sometime it went back when it cooled down, but other times I had to keep straightening it. I had the same issue soldering the strip on either side of the windows.
I placed the panel on the building and it looks the part.
I also put the door beam for the boiler shop door together.
After getting two of the layer re etched due to errors with rivets I have also laminated up the Boiler shop door that goes at the top of the yard. I learnt with the main doors that you can not solder these up and this was layered up using double sided adhesive sheets.
I have even managed to put a false man door into the layers and it all lined up.
You can see the man door in the photo of the prototype below.
Andy.
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
Update on progress.
1. Finally got round to using the new DCC set up rig to change the chip number on the Ellis Clark Black 5.
Yes I know this is a relatively simple task, but when you are still a DCC novice I am please I can now do this myself.
2. I have finished drawing the remaining doors for the yard building.
The double door dropped straight into the aperture in the structure.
I just need some warmer weather so I can get these painted.
3. Glazing and glazing bars for main building.
For the mock ups and when I took the layout was a work in progress, I used some scribed black acrylic to represent the windows in areas such as above the side sliding doors.
The real ones need to be clear (with a bit of weathering on them) and I have been struggling to come up with a method of getting glazing bars on both sides.
I have been doing several trials. Note, I have had to do these in black acrylic as my Diode laser will not cut clear material (The beam from the laser is blue and goes straight through clear without cutting). The first was to 3d print some glazing bars with profile on both sides.
I then cut slots in the acrylic so the beam could slides into the slot - the gap in the end lets the bar go all the way.
This did work but the assembly was too fragile and even with the bars glued in place, it was too easy to break the panel.
It then struck me to just cut part slots in the material and print the bars in two halves.
Once these are glued in place they are a good representation of glazing bars with the detail on both sides.
https://youtube.com/shorts/jlKUN6AF1Yo
All I need to do now, is do some drawings of the glazing panels and send the to JS Models to cut them in clear acrylic. If they come out looking as good in the clear, this is another major stumbling block that has been sorted.
Andy
1. Finally got round to using the new DCC set up rig to change the chip number on the Ellis Clark Black 5.
Yes I know this is a relatively simple task, but when you are still a DCC novice I am please I can now do this myself.
2. I have finished drawing the remaining doors for the yard building.
The double door dropped straight into the aperture in the structure.
I just need some warmer weather so I can get these painted.
3. Glazing and glazing bars for main building.
For the mock ups and when I took the layout was a work in progress, I used some scribed black acrylic to represent the windows in areas such as above the side sliding doors.
The real ones need to be clear (with a bit of weathering on them) and I have been struggling to come up with a method of getting glazing bars on both sides.
I have been doing several trials. Note, I have had to do these in black acrylic as my Diode laser will not cut clear material (The beam from the laser is blue and goes straight through clear without cutting). The first was to 3d print some glazing bars with profile on both sides.
I then cut slots in the acrylic so the beam could slides into the slot - the gap in the end lets the bar go all the way.
This did work but the assembly was too fragile and even with the bars glued in place, it was too easy to break the panel.
It then struck me to just cut part slots in the material and print the bars in two halves.
Once these are glued in place they are a good representation of glazing bars with the detail on both sides.
https://youtube.com/shorts/jlKUN6AF1Yo
All I need to do now, is do some drawings of the glazing panels and send the to JS Models to cut them in clear acrylic. If they come out looking as good in the clear, this is another major stumbling block that has been sorted.
Andy
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
A bit of a catch up.
Now I had cracked the glazing bars, I could now get on with the facing on the Boiler Shop dummy wall and roof section.
This would also mean I could see how I will get on with York Model Company adhesive tiles over a big area.
The first job was to fit the gutters. These are 3d Printed and glued in place using Evo Stik.
With the gutters fitted it now needed painting green. I was doing this in the Christmas holidays, and it was very cold in the garage. I covered the layout with some polythene to get a big enough area to paint it and I had a heater on in the garage. I managed to get it up to seven degrees. This was not really warm enough but I knew from past experience that the coloured primers from Army Painters are very forgiving so I gave it a go and got away with it.
Once the paint had dried I brought it back into the house onto the breakfast bar to do the tiles.
I had scored some lines onto the panels to help fit the tiles but they were not at the correct spacing, I had bought one of their template rulers and used this to mark lines at the correct spacing. I then just worked from the bottom up.
I have put in a couple of slipped tiles and also cut the corners of lots.
There is just the top edge to sort when I know how I am going to match it up to the roof light panels.
With the tiles done as far as I can go I moved onto the vertical glazing using the process described in the previous post. I set up the printer and did about 100 glazing bars.
I need 80 but thought it better to do some spares.
When they come off the supports you are left with the blips to fettle.
Once they were all fettles, they were then brush painted with Army Painter gun metal.
The acrylic sheets were all cut and I then had to glue these in place without getting glue on the window area.
At this point I have to apologise for not taking any pictures as I went on.
With all the Glazing bars fitted I then used double sided adhesive sheets to fix these to the wall.
The next job was to fit the barge boards that go over the top of the bars.
The complete assembly was then positioned on the layout.
I have put this in place as I need to determine where the fall pipes will go. I have printed these and I also needed to make sure they are not too long or will fowl on anything.
I am really pleased how this has come out and yes it is all too bright but it will look a lot better when the washes are applied. This will be done at the same time as the main building so it all matches.
For comparison I have included the Black 5 picture which is similar.
With the wall done I now have to move onto the roof panels. These are in two so there are twice as many roof bars although they are much shorter. They will also run onto the main base board as well.
Today I have fettles 120 so far. Probably another 300 required.
I had to split this post due to number of pictures - see below.
Now I had cracked the glazing bars, I could now get on with the facing on the Boiler Shop dummy wall and roof section.
This would also mean I could see how I will get on with York Model Company adhesive tiles over a big area.
The first job was to fit the gutters. These are 3d Printed and glued in place using Evo Stik.
With the gutters fitted it now needed painting green. I was doing this in the Christmas holidays, and it was very cold in the garage. I covered the layout with some polythene to get a big enough area to paint it and I had a heater on in the garage. I managed to get it up to seven degrees. This was not really warm enough but I knew from past experience that the coloured primers from Army Painters are very forgiving so I gave it a go and got away with it.
Once the paint had dried I brought it back into the house onto the breakfast bar to do the tiles.
I had scored some lines onto the panels to help fit the tiles but they were not at the correct spacing, I had bought one of their template rulers and used this to mark lines at the correct spacing. I then just worked from the bottom up.
I have put in a couple of slipped tiles and also cut the corners of lots.
There is just the top edge to sort when I know how I am going to match it up to the roof light panels.
With the tiles done as far as I can go I moved onto the vertical glazing using the process described in the previous post. I set up the printer and did about 100 glazing bars.
I need 80 but thought it better to do some spares.
When they come off the supports you are left with the blips to fettle.
Once they were all fettles, they were then brush painted with Army Painter gun metal.
The acrylic sheets were all cut and I then had to glue these in place without getting glue on the window area.
At this point I have to apologise for not taking any pictures as I went on.
With all the Glazing bars fitted I then used double sided adhesive sheets to fix these to the wall.
The next job was to fit the barge boards that go over the top of the bars.
The complete assembly was then positioned on the layout.
I have put this in place as I need to determine where the fall pipes will go. I have printed these and I also needed to make sure they are not too long or will fowl on anything.
I am really pleased how this has come out and yes it is all too bright but it will look a lot better when the washes are applied. This will be done at the same time as the main building so it all matches.
For comparison I have included the Black 5 picture which is similar.
With the wall done I now have to move onto the roof panels. These are in two so there are twice as many roof bars although they are much shorter. They will also run onto the main base board as well.
Today I have fettles 120 so far. Probably another 300 required.
I had to split this post due to number of pictures - see below.
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Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
Other activities.
I had intended to get the steel work under the Power House bridge done over Christmas, unfortunately I made a mistake on the longitudinal beams and they are 4mm too short. I had been looking to see if I could add some bits on and make then fit, in the end I have altered the drawings and they are currently away for etching.
I did make a cradle to work on the bridge upside down to fit the beams
I have also made a couple of benches and cut the parts for the stairway that goes upto the toilets.
These large areas that need lots of parts and time are getting a bit frustrating, but once they are done I will be happy.
Andy
I had intended to get the steel work under the Power House bridge done over Christmas, unfortunately I made a mistake on the longitudinal beams and they are 4mm too short. I had been looking to see if I could add some bits on and make then fit, in the end I have altered the drawings and they are currently away for etching.
I did make a cradle to work on the bridge upside down to fit the beams
I have also made a couple of benches and cut the parts for the stairway that goes upto the toilets.
These large areas that need lots of parts and time are getting a bit frustrating, but once they are done I will be happy.
Andy
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
Despite having a cold over the weekend I have managed to put together the replacement etchings for the structure under the powerhouse bridge so this could be progressed.
The first job was to punch through all the rivets. I don’t usually count them but I did this time and you would not believe there were just over 1700 in the five beams and the false beam face for the other bridge.
I soldered up the false beams first.
This was tried in place on the structure and will represent the beams that in real life joined to two bridge structures together.
Unfortunately, this cannot be built as a proper beam as the baseboard joint is between the two bridges.
The five replacement beams were soldered up, and the structure was then assembled on the underside of the bridge structure.
The four legs were added with the two on the wall side fitted flush to the wall.
The complete assembly was then put in place on the layout to see if it all fits in place. I also clamped the front plate with the window frames to see if it fitted where it joined the other structures.
It all fitted as expected although there is still a little bit of tweaking required to get it to sit as it should.
I have included a photo of the real structure for comparison.
As with most things, this is just another structure that is now on the list of items to paint when the weather improves.
Andy
The first job was to punch through all the rivets. I don’t usually count them but I did this time and you would not believe there were just over 1700 in the five beams and the false beam face for the other bridge.
I soldered up the false beams first.
This was tried in place on the structure and will represent the beams that in real life joined to two bridge structures together.
Unfortunately, this cannot be built as a proper beam as the baseboard joint is between the two bridges.
The five replacement beams were soldered up, and the structure was then assembled on the underside of the bridge structure.
The four legs were added with the two on the wall side fitted flush to the wall.
The complete assembly was then put in place on the layout to see if it all fits in place. I also clamped the front plate with the window frames to see if it fitted where it joined the other structures.
It all fitted as expected although there is still a little bit of tweaking required to get it to sit as it should.
I have included a photo of the real structure for comparison.
As with most things, this is just another structure that is now on the list of items to paint when the weather improves.
Andy
Andy Ross
Western Thunderer
Hunslet Works in Railway Modeller.
Part 6 of the articles for the RM is in March addition released today.
This one is all about the painting of the structure.
The articles are running well behind the current progress.
On another point, I really need the rain to stop, the persistent damp in the garage is now causing problems on any unpainted timber. All the packing boards will now need rubbing down when they dry out and painting, along with the legs and the fiddle yard board and the edges of the other baseboards. They are all covered in black damp marks.
I will look at storing next winter in the club rooms which is cold but not damp.
Andy
Part 6 of the articles for the RM is in March addition released today.
This one is all about the painting of the structure.
The articles are running well behind the current progress.
On another point, I really need the rain to stop, the persistent damp in the garage is now causing problems on any unpainted timber. All the packing boards will now need rubbing down when they dry out and painting, along with the legs and the fiddle yard board and the edges of the other baseboards. They are all covered in black damp marks.
I will look at storing next winter in the club rooms which is cold but not damp.
Andy
