Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
This reminds me of when my son was small and we lived in a back to back terrace in Bradford. I had done quite a bit of work on our front "garden" (read yard
) and ours was the only flat play area on what was quite a steep and at that time cobbled street. I came home from work one night to find a couple of the neighbours girls playing in the garden (no sign of my son). So as I walked into the garden I said to the eldest (about 3) "now then ladies what are you playing" the reply from the little girl was "we're not ladies, you plonker! we're girls"
jamiepage
Western Thunderer
Floors fitted, which are putting a bit more strength into the bodies. Well, just a push fit at the moment but will probably epoxy eventually. It's tempting to leave the push fit but I assumed that the cut and paste sides would need the longitudinal support of a glued- in floor.
Compartment partitions ready, awaiting seat castings.
Brackets have been fitted to the underframes which help locate the bodies and will take screws to hold one to t'other.
Much pantograph work currently, producing the various brakegear bits.
Compartment partitions ready, awaiting seat castings.
Brackets have been fitted to the underframes which help locate the bodies and will take screws to hold one to t'other.
Much pantograph work currently, producing the various brakegear bits.
jamiepage
Western Thunderer
Guv'nor, questions like .. why?.. for instance?
The bit I think you're asking about is a packing piece, 1 1/2 in. timber on the originals and 1/16 basswood on the models. All glued with bolts then going from the back through wooden solebar, steel flitch plate, said packing piece, and nickel silver axleguard. And the stepboard brackets where appropriate.
Not sure about stepboards yet. Whatever is used will need to stay straight and not wave about. Maybe timber, but perhaps not strong enough. I have some 2mm. tufnol sheet which may do. Or single sided PCB if it's thick enough (is it still obtainable?), copper side down and a quick solder job to the brackets.
Very open to ideas.
The bit I think you're asking about is a packing piece, 1 1/2 in. timber on the originals and 1/16 basswood on the models. All glued with bolts then going from the back through wooden solebar, steel flitch plate, said packing piece, and nickel silver axleguard. And the stepboard brackets where appropriate.
Not sure about stepboards yet. Whatever is used will need to stay straight and not wave about. Maybe timber, but perhaps not strong enough. I have some 2mm. tufnol sheet which may do. Or single sided PCB if it's thick enough (is it still obtainable?), copper side down and a quick solder job to the brackets.
Very open to ideas.
28ten
Guv'nor
Timber would seem the best option as it is much easier to cut than PCB and it would distress nicely, but fixing it would be difficult. the best i could come up with would be a lamination of brass strip and timber so the step could be soldered in place but with the visual advantages of wood.
jamiepage
Western Thunderer
Milling out a channel on the underside of wood boards to take a brass strip could work very well. Solder brass strip in place then glue on a wood 'cover'. Only the wood visible, but the brass giving rigidity and the means to solder in place. Thanks guv'nor, may be onto something there.
JimG
Western Thunderer
Jamie,
I remember an article in the MRN in the 1960s by, IIRC, Mel Thorburn about soldering parts to wood. I think I remember him using copper or brass rivets. I'll go digging and see if I can find the article.
Jim.
28ten
Guv'nor
Even better if you mill a recess.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Unless the G3 population are going to lie between the rails then the only stepboard surface which benefits from a wood texture is the top, front face and ends. If you are prepared to compromise over the ends then the wood can be "L" shaped.