7mm Finney Battle of Britain

[mickoo]

Hi Mick,
What a beautiful kit, and superb workmanship to complement it! Those castings are just exquisite!
I love threads like this where I gain so much inspiration, and the urge to make a better job of my own builds in the future!

Thank you, not sure about the workmanship though , you don't see, or more importantly hear, the struggles I go through to get anything to look anywhere decent.

I know what you mean about inspirational, there are a great many posts here that add fuel to the creative fire. But I have to confess that I want to know how Attilio Mari keeps things so clean! Trenomania Foto gallery - Fermodellismo>Hobby Model Expo - Novegro 2007/Novegro 2007 - E.626 di Attilio Mari that's probably my greatest driving force these days, cleanliness.

Much of it comes down the the design of the parts, hidden or blind solder points help a great deal, I know it all gets painted in the end so it's a pointless quest, but I still strive for as clean as I can get.

MD

 

[Dog Star]

They also show all your mistakes and poor workmanship ... good job PSP has a clone brush

... the next section I'm going to try and complete with latex gloves on, primarily to stop finger prints...

Just as long as the photos allow us to believe that assembly by the masses is achievable .

 

[mickoo]

Just as long as the photos allow us to believe that assembly by the masses is achievable .

I was merely jesting

Besides, I haven't changed anything in the kit, there is no need to, if it was achievable before then why would it not be now

On a more practical note, should we show poorly constructed and badly fitting images just so it looks believable?

Do Loveless, Masterpiece Models, JLTRT, et al show tardy items in their brochures?

The concept of good clean and concise workmanship, is to show that it can be achieved, with time, patience, guidance and practice. If I can do it, trust me, anyone can

 

[Eastsidepilot]

.................and the every increasingly annoying task of getting them off the work piece for decent photos.

MD

Cotton bud and lighter fuel works well.

Col

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

Good clear annotated photos of complex areas in a kit will generally trump a drawing for me. It really helps to see the parts in relation to each other.

Totally agree. If this became de facto within the Finney range it will raise their kit instructions to stratospheric levels to which others will have to strive to achieve.

 

[OzzyO]

I know what you mean about inspirational, there are a great many posts here that add fuel to the creative fire. But I have to confess that I want to know how Attilio Mari keeps things so clean! Trenomania Foto gallery - Fermodellismo>Hobby Model Expo - Novegro 2007/Novegro 2007 - E.626 di Attilio Mari that's probably my greatest driving force these days, cleanliness.
MD

Do we know what scale this loco is built in? looking at the track it sort of looks 10mm/foot (Gauge 1), not that it matters too much. It is a fine piece of model building.

Just after the photos were taken farmer Jones said that's a nice kit-build of So & so's kit I'll give you £200 for it, he got 2 hectares for nothing (but he did walk funny for a day or two afterword).

Just keep up the good work,

OzzyO.

 

[simond]

Ozzy,

Two acres is 0.8074 hectares...

The photos, and the modelling they depict, do provide a target to which to aspire. Dipping in occasionally to remind myself, loco building will recommence one day.

Best
Simon

 

[Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen]

Do we know what scale this loco is built in? looking at the track it sort of looks 10mm/foot (Gauge 1), not that it matters too much. It is a fine piece of model building.

Just after the photos were taken farmer Jones said that's a nice kit-build of So & so's kit I'll give you £200 for it, he got 2 hectares for nothing (but he did walk funny for a day or two afterword).

Just keep up the good work,

OzzyO.

I pretty sure this is Gauge 1 to 1/32 scale.
Tim

 

[mickoo]

Brake gear.





Still needs a bit of a clean up on some of the joints but all completed now.

Mick D

 

[mickoo]

Question, just looking at the instructions for the bogie, there are no 5/32nd bearings.

There are two for the trailing truck but the bogie has none, the instructions say to fit the white metal castings and then ream appropriately, is this right, don't think white metal bearings are going to last very long at all if I'm honest.

MD

 

[daifly]

UnLTRT?

 

[Steph Dale]

Question, just looking at the instructions for the bogie, there are no 5/32nd bearings!

There are two for the trailing truck but the bogie has none, the instructions say to fit the white metal castings and then ream appropriately, is this right, don't think white metal bearings are going to last very long at all if I'm honest.

MD

Mick,

If you ream them once assembled (is this what's suggested?) this will ensure they're in line so they should be fine. After all, it's what the prototype uses. It's only high/low/rough spots that will cause problems.

I have even heard of people deliberately running their models on whitemetaled bearings...

Steph

 

[mickoo]

Yes Steph, the instructions say to attach the white metal castings to the side plates and then ream once the bogie is assembled, it does ensure squareness but I was just wondering about the longevity of white metal over brass.

Agreed, the real deal has white metal bearings but they are lubricated quite liberally in service, may be that's what is required, scale felt pads and oil pots

It must be okay as the kit has been around for some time, I've just never come across it before.

Mick D

 

[OzzyO]

Mick,

if you are thinking that the W/M bearings could run dry just drill a small reservoir "hole" in the bottom of the bearing. You don't need a deep hole only about 0.5mm that will keep the bearing wet enough to stop it locking up.

For a long time ships used wood as the last bearing on the prop. shaft as the water on the outside of the ship caused it to form a seal on the shaft. But a lot if not most of the bearings that are used on turbine bearings are still W/M and these can be running at 20,000 rpm+ it may say something for them.

OzzyO.

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

I was just wondering about the longevity of white metal over brass.

It should all be okay providing the bearings and axles are polished and the lubrication does do not dry out - no need for scale felt pads unless you really want to , however this will become a dust trap .

Also the model bearing will not be carrying the weight the prototype did.......unless you are scaling the weight as well .

 

[Genghis]

OK, so pretending to be 40 years younger (gulp!) and going back to University days, I think we need to remember that whitemetal is a pretty generic term and that bearing whitemetals are very different animals to the casting alloys used by us. Whitemetals used for bearings have significant amounts of Antimony added as this forms hard intermetallic cubes. These hard cubes align themselves in the soft lead-tin matrix to provide the bearing support. The hard cubes are wear resistant. I doubt whether the normal casting alloys have this property, but given that the loads are very low, a spot of oil ought to keep things under control.

Anyway, it's a beautiful model and the illustrations for the instructions are what I aspire to.

 

[oldravendale]

In practical terms brass or steel to W/M has worked well for me in the past. Good combination! Don't try white metal to white metal, though. It's a combination which tends to stick. However, (and I'm not an engineer, so this is all apocryphal) I believe it's good practice to have two rubbing or otherwise engaging surfaces in dissimilar materials.

B

 

[mickoo]

I believe it's good practice to have two rubbing or otherwise engaging surfaces in dissimilar materials.

B

Not unless it's galv or stainless steel, mix either of those and your fastener is stuck solid. We had a whole load of stainless steel bolts in a threaded galvanised structure, after just a few weeks it was impossible to extract the bolts.

Anyway, not to worry, white metal it is so white metal it shall be.

Personally, I'd be happier boring the white metal and sleeving with brass tube, the brass tube could then be extended out from the bearing and limit side control and thus remove the need for washers to achieve that task.

7mmMick did something similar on the M7 by using tube instead of washers to limit bogie wheel side play, but that tube was not fixed to the bogie or structure and free to rotate....I think?

I'll follow the same with this but perhaps add a washer between the tube and white metal, thus acting to limit any end cutting forces the tube might try to do. It may be that the Nickle silver bogie frame bore is small enough to protect the white metal casting on the inside.

Mick D

 

[mickoo]

Anyway, it's a beautiful model and the illustrations for the instructions are what I aspire to.

Thank you, the illustrations do mean that you have to build every model before you can revamp the instructions, that could be some time if you have a large collection of models in the catalogue

I should also say, that alongside the images, others have been working incredibly hard at the rest of the document to support the images and make it a cohesive article.

Mick D

 

[mickoo]

Motion bracket, nice neat little fold up affair, the only fiddly bits are the lubricator pipes.





All needs a good scrub, Sodium Bicarbonate first, then Cillit Bang very quickly and finally good old fairy liquid. The down side to Sodium and Cillit is that they both turn any solder residue dark grey, not good for photos.

Mick D