7mm Finney Battle of Britain
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Mick
If you are going to do a lot of close ups I think its worth investing in Helicon focus and the remote control software thats used with a laptop. This way you can shoot at F5.6 and get front to back all in perfect focus and it does it all for you.
If you are going to just do the odd shot now and again it's probably not worth it.
The last photos I posted of the class 15 were taken using it with my D810 and a 50mm F1.8 lens at F5.6
Richard
If you are going to do a lot of close ups I think its worth investing in Helicon focus and the remote control software thats used with a laptop. This way you can shoot at F5.6 and get front to back all in perfect focus and it does it all for you.
If you are going to just do the odd shot now and again it's probably not worth it.
The last photos I posted of the class 15 were taken using it with my D810 and a 50mm F1.8 lens at F5.6
Richard
mickoo
Western Thunderer
They do a free one month trial 
, now just have to find a free month 
I will over time be doing a lot of close up work, mostly instruction photos where sub assemblies can be accomplished with simple high F stop, but it would be nice to develop the studio side of my resume so to speak for larger objects, especially as I've got some G1 engines in the pipeline.
MD
, now just have to find a free month I will over time be doing a lot of close up work, mostly instruction photos where sub assemblies can be accomplished with simple high F stop, but it would be nice to develop the studio side of my resume so to speak for larger objects, especially as I've got some G1 engines in the pipeline.
MD
Jon Fitness
Western Thunderer
Downloaded it not long ago but it's no use to me as I don't have a digital SLR. I was quite surprised it didn't support my Canon G15...
JF
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Mick
Its well worth doing a months trial, you need the remote control software to get the best out of it but that is only compatible with Nikon and Canon D slrs, I'm sure you have one.
I need to get some better lights what are you using ?
richard
Its well worth doing a months trial, you need the remote control software to get the best out of it but that is only compatible with Nikon and Canon D slrs, I'm sure you have one.
I need to get some better lights what are you using ?
richard
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Bil, I think you'll find all lower lamp irons are the same length and correct on the model.
On the 1:1 engines some cross members has spacers to the rear to fit onto the lamp irons, in addition the circular disc in the middle is again often spaced off the cross member to clear the smoke box dart. Page 106 'Lapford' clearly shows the rear extension pieces to the cross bar on 'The Royal Wessex' head board
The modern Golden Arrow headboard differs from the original in that it has no apparent rear spacers on the cross member and what looks like a double spacer behind the board.
MD
On the 1:1 engines some cross members has spacers to the rear to fit onto the lamp irons, in addition the circular disc in the middle is again often spaced off the cross member to clear the smoke box dart. Page 106 'Lapford' clearly shows the rear extension pieces to the cross bar on 'The Royal Wessex' head board
The modern Golden Arrow headboard differs from the original in that it has no apparent rear spacers on the cross member and what looks like a double spacer behind the board.
MD
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Richard,
Canon 6D with 35-105 and 70-300, both IS USM and most importantly, L series lenses For once I cannot blame the hardware.
Lights, I just bought a standard set up from Amazon, they're nowt special but opted for the 35W trumpet lamps which give off stupid light levels.
PhotoGeeks TT2/3L/90 Continuous Lighting Tabletop: Amazon.co.uk: Camera & Photo
The tent is a bit big but it'll do for G1 models and it came with three lights which are the important bits, I also grabbed two smaller tents, a 50 and a 40 cm to try them out but they're not essential if you have other forms of back drop.
MD
Canon 6D with 35-105 and 70-300, both IS USM and most importantly, L series lenses
For once I cannot blame the hardware.Lights, I just bought a standard set up from Amazon, they're nowt special but opted for the 35W trumpet lamps which give off stupid light levels.
PhotoGeeks TT2/3L/90 Continuous Lighting Tabletop: Amazon.co.uk: Camera & Photo
The tent is a bit big but it'll do for G1 models and it came with three lights which are the important bits, I also grabbed two smaller tents, a 50 and a 40 cm to try them out but they're not essential if you have other forms of back drop.
MD
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Mick/JB
I've ordered them should be here at the weekend just in time for when I get back from holiday.
Richard
I've ordered them should be here at the weekend just in time for when I get back from holiday.
Richard
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Exactly, whilst not top of the range they will suffice for serious amateur stuff.
I bought some extra lamps to fit in my desk top angle poise lights as they are ES fittings. Now it's like working in a hospital surgery, the light is so bright and crisp.
MD
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
I got a similar set last October, I wouldn't be without them now.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Done.
I still need to work on the studio set up, especially getting rid of the darn creases in the back drop, but it'll have to do for now. Stacking is certainly the way forward, not carried out here, primarily as running a high F stop means that your sensor needs to be medically clean, the merest spec creates small smudges and mine is pretty clean for most of my other work.
Amazing how DSLR's pick up every speck of dust, most not seen by eye.
As much as I like my Bulleids, my cup runneth over in O gauge and it's good to finally get it finished. I hope the 1:32 doesn't bite back as much as this one did.
Enjoy.
MD
I still need to work on the studio set up, especially getting rid of the darn creases in the back drop, but it'll have to do for now. Stacking is certainly the way forward, not carried out here, primarily as running a high F stop means that your sensor needs to be medically clean, the merest spec creates small smudges and mine is pretty clean for most of my other work.
Amazing how DSLR's pick up every speck of dust, most not seen by eye.
As much as I like my Bulleids, my cup runneth over in O gauge and it's good to finally get it finished. I hope the 1:32 doesn't bite back as much as this one did.
Enjoy.
MD
Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
At least you know what to do now with the 1/32.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
More importantly, what NOT to do
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Mick,
Fantastic pictures, is it ok to use one for my website
Fantastic pictures, is it ok to use one for my website
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Mick
That looks fantastic I just wish I had the time to build one.
Richard
That looks fantastic I just wish I had the time to build one.
Richard
mickoo
Western Thunderer
mickoo
Western Thunderer
It is a nice model and it doesn't take too long, seven months for me but I reckon at least two were lost to cleaning for photos in the instructions.
Even then I was surprised how much time you do loose in taking the photos, cleaning them up and editing for the instructions.
For example, the Bulleid bogie took nearly four days to clean and prep and take photos, the W1 which is marginally more complicated took just over a day to clean the cusp and test build; the instruction build comes soon after Kettering and will take much longer.
On top of the above, I stopped for a good four or five weeks to push on the W1 over Xmas whilst Warren had the shell and tender for paint.
The resin casing saves a lot of time so I reckon you being a proficient builder could tip one out in three or four months
.MD
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Beautiful.