Finney 7 LNER A4

[Tim Watson]

Just a very small mod, but when I made my one, many moons ago, I filed out the gauge glasses and replaced them with polished Perspex. The chevron was painted on the metal backing to indicate water level.

Tim

 

[P A D]

Just a very small mod, but when I made my one, many moons ago, I filed out the gauge glasses and replaced them with polished Perspex. The chevron was painted on the metal backing to indicate water level.

Tim

Hi Tim,
It's a nice touch. I've seen it done before and keep meaning to give it a try. First I need to source some suitable perspex, but as far as this build is concerned, too late to start hacking the casting.

Back tracking a little here is a side on view of the strips soldered to the top edges of the cab sides, for providing increased surface area for epoxying the roof on after painting.


I've removed the tiny hand wheels from the manifold and replaced with some lager ones. At Dave's prompting I've also tidied up the regulator handle as well as smoothing the file marks on the right hand gauge glass.

And refitted into the cab. I note also in Tim's post that the flap in the fire hole door is open and he's added the catch as well. Another nice touch to plagiarise some time.


And with the roof on.
I must give the back of the driver's seat a scrub with the fibre pen to remove the staining.


I gave the tender a wash to take some photos tomorrow in daylight, but I know there can never be too many photos in a post, so here's a few while it's clean.







And some more of the loco. As far as the detailing is concerned, I think I covered every thing that's visible from normal viewing angles, but if anyone spots something I've missed, speak up.












That will be if for now until I get the motor. I need one for the A3 as well so that's quite an investment in ABC Gears.

Does anybody know if those printed cab dials are still available. J have some BR ones but no LNER.
Cheers ,
Peter

 

[adrian]

It's a nice touch. I've seen it done before and keep meaning to give it a try. First I need to source some suitable perspex, but as far as this build is concerned, too late to start hacking the casting.

Have a word with @Rob Pulham - he may have a little bit left
Nick Dunhill's 7mm W (A6) or Whitby Tank Workbench

 

[P A D]

Thanks Adrian.
Rob has already been in touch as well.

Just to round things off, a couple of shots on my brother's railway.




I gave it a test push through the wider curves and it just about makes it. The front bogie wheels touch the pipes on the drain cocks, so I may cut them shorter.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[mickoo]

I wouldn't cut them back, it'll spoil the look, you could ease them out a little. As for shorting, doesn't really matter.....if only one wheel shorts, it only matters if opposing wheels short, at the same time, unless of course you're using the US method of pick up....which I doubt.

Another method is to coat the inside with a thin layer of epoxy, it'll take ages to rub through and when it does, smear some more on.

Turned out nice though, worth all the little extras as well.

 

[P A D]

Thanks Mick,
I like to add what can be seen on the outside. Looking back at some of my earlier models, I see lots of missing stuff that I wish I'd put on. I suppose as the skill set improves, what we are satisfied with evolves. I know you and others like to add a lot more in "hidden" areas and all credit to you for doing it. I marvel at the results, but it's not my thing.

On reflection, cutting them back is not an option. I'll know better how the pipes impact on the running after I get the motor and pick ups on.

Pity I can't get to Bristol. It would be nice to see your latest efforts on the W1 and your not amused reaction, when one of the punters tries to pick it up.

This is you jumping up and down on the punter!

 

[P A D]

PS. of course the flexible cover between the loco roof and tender could be added, but I don't know how to do it convincingly and the model still be able to run round curves.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[7mmMick]

Superb as usual Peter, a really nice build. What’s next on the list mate ?

 

[P A D]

Thanks Mick.

Nothing new in cupboard at the moment, but I've got lots of outstanding paint jobs to do for my brother.

Not sure what I'll go for next. I fancy getting something smaller that I can run on my brother's railway, before doing another big one.

Having moved the CPL LNER coupling to the loco, I've replaced it on the tender with a spare generic one. It was miss cast so I soldered the links to the turn buckle as it just has to hang on the hook to the right of the buck eye.




It looks to be hanging a bit low but it's well clear of the rail.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

This may be of interest to those who are not aware. Ellis Clarke Trains do some nice storage boxes to suit small, medium and large locos. This one for the A4 is the latest of several that my brother and I have bought. The boxes are made from robust card, well lined with foam all round, as well as at the top and bottom. They come with 3 vertical foam inserts that allow you to separate the loco and tender. The third one is not used on the A4, but for a for a shorter tender loco, it could be and is easy to cut with a sharp craft knife. With the imminent availability of the Finney 7 W1, one of these may be useful, as the box the kit comes in (assuming it's the same as the A4) won't hold the finished model. Not as robust as a wooden case but more than adequate for all but the most hamfisted owners. A lot cheaper too.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[warren haywood]

This may be of interest to those who are not aware. Ellis Clarke Trains do some nice storage boxes to suit small, medium and large locos. This one for the A4 is the latest of several that my brother and I have bought. The boxes are made from robust card, well lined with foam all round, as well as at the top and bottom. They come with 3 vertical foam inserts that allow you to separate the loco and tender. The third one is not used on the A4, but for a for a shorter tender loco, it could be and is easy to cut with a sharp craft knife. With the imminent availability of the Finney 7 W1, one of these may be useful, as the box the kit comes in (assuming it's the same as the A4) won't hold the finished model. Not as robust as a wooden case but more than adequate for all but the most hamfisted owners. A lot cheaper too.
View attachment 98185

Cheers,
Peter

Much better than those horrible wooden things where your never sure if the catches are properly engaged.

 

[adrian]

Ellis Clarke Trains do some nice storage boxes to suit small, medium and large locos.

Cheers

For reference Ellis Clark Trains O Gauge Foam Lined Loco Boxes, 4 New Sizes!

 

[Prairie Tank]

The more I gazed in awe at this the more I am convinced that some one has just shrunk a real loco!!!!

Absolutely superb!

John

 

[P A D]

Much better than those horrible wooden things where your never sure if the catches are properly engaged.

Is that the voice of experience Warren? Come on, own up. Who's loco did you drop.

The more I gazed in awe at this the more I am convinced that some one has just shrunk a real loco!!!!

Absolutely superb!

John

Many thanks John. The Martin Finney kits are superb and as can be seen from Mickoo's W1 build, Finney 7 are taking them to the next level. I doubt it will be painted before Kettering so if I can get down to the show I'll bring it along. I've just contacted ABC about a suitable motor and gearbox so I may even be able to run it on the test track.
Cheers,
Peter

Ps assuming it doesn't snow like last year!

 

[P A D]

Pps.
Ellis Clark now has a fantastic showroom with all the models in display cases and you can visit without an appointment. They also have a 6 foot diameter test track to run the models. When I was there last week there was a rake of Darstaed BR Mk1 coaches on display. I have to say that for the money they are superb!

 

[Richard Spoors]

Peter, I see from your David Andrews 7mm Stanier 2 6 4 tank thread that you chose a VMS2C ABC gearbox for your A3 and A4. Was there a particular reason why you chose these raking designs over the standard VML2? I fitted the latter into my Finney 7 V2 on the rear driving axle with the motor facing to the rear. It was a snug fit mind! I hope to see (and admire) your A4 on Saturday.
Cheers
Richard

 

[P A D]

Hi Richard,
While my Gladiator Duchess was with Warren Haywood for painting, I put the motor from that in the A3 for a while. It fit nicely and ran well, so having checked with Brian ar ABC before ordering, I went with the same for the Gresley Pacifics.

I'm hoping to have the 2 6 4 up and running so I doubt I'll get time to fit up the A3 and A4, but I'll bring them along and am more than happy to show the to you. I'll drop you my mobile number on a PM and you can ring me so wd can meet.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[Richard Spoors]

Peter,
Good plan, thanks, Richard

 

[topshed34a]

Peter,
Good plan, thanks, Richard

I have just glanced through this whole post and I'm simply stunned how it can be built so neat, and the absence of any solder showing.
Maybe it's just me

I could resist this no longer, so out came the pale blue boxes. Here's what's inside starting with the loco. The milky bar boiler, horn blocks cast brass and nickel silver parts, plus various screws, nuts and bolts and assorted bits of wire. The Slaters wheels are of course not included. As with my Finney A3 I've gone for standard 3/16 axles and wheels throughout to suit my own personal preference. Some modifications will be required to accommodate these, but that's my choice. I'm still waiting for the white metal castings and instruction book, but I can press on without them as the instructions are on the F7 website.
View attachment 93027

The brass etchings.
View attachment 93031
And the nickel silver.
View attachment 93033
Here are the corridor tender parts. All brass etchings plus some brass and white metal castings, plus various bits of wire, nuts and bolts etc. There is also a very comprehensive instruction booklet which again, can be viewed on the F7 website.
View attachment 93035
Here's the cast resin boiler that will save a lot of construction time.View attachment 93029

View attachment 93036

View attachment 93030
Good job I don't like white chocolate. I might be tempted to eat it!

A modest start has been made, starting with the tender frames. First job was to fold over and solder the slots for the wheels. The two frames were bolted together to line them up and then clamped in the vice to open out the slots to 3/16 inch using a chain saw file. After that the keeps were folded and soldered, the holes for the compensation beams opened to 1/8 inch and the 3 spacers added and soldered up.
View attachment 93028

View attachment 93034

Different design approach to MOK but just as pleasurable to build.
Cheers,
Peter

I just started to read this thread, I have just started mine and I'm just in awe at how good it looked?
I can't see any solder yet it obviously has been and that really alludes me.
Right now I can't work out how f40 the cylinder drain cock linkage is folded and fitted.
It's driving me crackers.
Regards Steven

 

[SimonT]

Steven,
take a look at PAD's post #194. I think it looks like a GW linkage and folds into a ] shape to slide onto the spigots on the cocks.

SimonT
F7 GW Bod!