Crook Street Works - Gladiator Precursor Tank

Allan

Western Thunderer
Hi All,

It was with some trepidation that I approached this kit as I'd read Nick Dunhill's account of his build with the inaccuracies he'd encountered. However, Nick is a much more honourable modeller than me so I all too readily dispensed with any qualms about modelling scurrilousness (or cheating as it's more plainly known) and pressed on.

The wheelbase is indeed short, I measured it to be 1mm short, that is about 1 & 3/4 inches which is about the same as the twice the oversize of the 0 finescale wheel flanges (you can hear the case for the defence being crafted here, can't you...). I'm afraid, I just pressed on... You think this is bad, just wait till later on...

S-o-o-o... I added some crude suspension:

PXL_20260219_151855390.jpg


And folded up the chassis and at least it's innacuracies were consistent so it fitted together:

PXL_20260220_091927360.jpg



...and, after a bit of coupling rod easing, ran fine on DC:

PXL_20260220_151933943.jpg


The bogie was very straightforward and ran over my curves, which not all bogies do at first attempt:

PXL_20260223_111726010.jpg



However, the rear carrying wheel required much more drastic action, confirming my place in the criminal class:

PXL_20260223_122140274.jpg



After some highly unprototypical savagery, the frames now had a pronounced joggle, needed to get round my unprototypically tight curves:

PXL_20260223_141839692.jpg



Whilst in a concession to authenticity necessitated by said curves, I made up a radial axle rather than the rigid setup in the kit. The prototype originally had a rigid arrangement but derailed in the works and was itself fitted with a radial truck - see, even criminals are honest some of the time... I needed some whafty springing to get it to stay on the tracks as it negotiated the curves:

PXL_20260226_144422288.jpg



So, having butchered the chassis enough, I fitted the cosmetic brakes, adding some extra cross beams to make them double, as in the prototype:

PXL_20260227_143217065.jpg



At this point I thought it best to make sure the footplate fitted and so soldered on some valences. The kit recommends using angle not supplied; I didn't have any so I made up some valences from scrap etch, of which I have loads from previous kits. There's lots of inner bracing on the footplate but I'll need to remove some of it to clear the motor and fit pickups. I'll see what I need to do as the build progresses:

PXL_20260228_171758871.jpg



That's it for now. Onward and upward (or should it be downward in my case...).


Cheers
Allan
 

adrian

Flying Squad
After some highly unprototypical savagery, the frames now had a pronounced joggle, needed to get round my unprototypically tight curves:
Fairly prototypical as far as I can see. On the drawings the rear portion of the frames are inset simply by having 3 layers of frame material overlapping - it's marked up as 4' 2" between frames around the driving wheels and 3' 10" between frames behind the rear driving wheel axle.

There is a similar inset of frames at the front as well but just a single frame width so around the front bogie it is 4' between frames.

Screenshot 2026-03-04 at 20.52.19.png
 

Allan

Western Thunderer
Fairly prototypical as far as I can see. On the drawings the rear portion of the frames are inset simply by having 3 layers of frame material overlapping - it's marked up as 4' 2" between frames around the driving wheels and 3' 10" between frames behind the rear driving wheel axle.

There is a similar inset of frames at the front as well but just a single frame width so around the front bogie it is 4' between frames.

View attachment 259101



Yeah, I knew that... (glancing side to side, fingers crossed behind his back...)
 

Allan

Western Thunderer
Hi All,

The weather's picked up so progress has slowed a little but pressing on rewardless...

There's no boiler formers in the kit so I made 3 up:

One for the front, recessed to permit ease of smokebox installation:

PXL_20260306_123525160.jpg


One for the rear, cut down to match the boiler profile:

PXL_20260306_123509832.jpg



And one for the rear of the full boiler portion with a hole in it for anything I might want to put in the boiler (y'know, old socks, sandwiches...):

PXL_20260306_123506655.jpg



The smokebox on this was a bit fiddly to get right, especially as I wanted to add a floor with captive nuts to enable installation post-painting and lining:

PXL_20260308_130952530.jpg



The bunker has holes for LMS period steps and handrail holes. I filled these in with solder and fitted the appropriate LNW lamp sockets:

PXL_20260309_160620219.jpg



At this point I assembled the bunker into a sub-assembly to be attached later as I want access to the cab:

PXL_20260312_160048315.jpg



There was a lot of 'meat' in the form of brass in the footplate so more drastic action was required to hack this out as well as make the tanks appear separate rather than the under boiler solid front the kit supplies:

PXL_20260309_160652567.jpg



A theraputic look at progress so far with sub-assemblies just placed in position, not attached properly and it's starting to look tolerably like a Precursor Tank:

PXL_20260313_095626128.jpg



On to the boiler fittings, foremost of these being the longitudinal pipes just above the centreline of the boiler that also have the handrails attached. It's very important that these are level and correctly positioned, any errors stick out visually like the proverbial sore thumb. The larger boilered LNW engines always had a stay holding these pipes roughly halfway along, the exact location varied per engine. locating this with pin point accuracy on a smooth boiler tube is 'interesting'. It took me four goes on each side of soldering, unsoldering, cleaning up then re-soldering to get them right. The kit doesn't supply them (very few do) so I made some out of square U section. Anyway here's the little beasties doing their thing, supporting the pipe...:

PXL_20260315_171331311.jpg

PXL_20260315_171511172.jpg



That's it so far, more good weather ahead but we'll sneak into the cellar at the first hint of cloud...

Cheers
Allan
 

Allan

Western Thunderer
Hi All,

On to the handrails. I always struggle with these to get the bends correct. In addition I had to make a blower valve as the Webb version in the kit doesn't permit the continuation of the handrail to the smokebox front:

PXL_20260317_100907434.jpg



Handrails held in place with blu-tack, they'll be fitted properly after painting and lining:

PXL_20260317_104056403.jpg



Next for the body is the tank equalisation pipes and ducts. The duct fronts are supplied in the kit but I added the bodies into which has to fit a transverse pipe. Simple enough but it fits through the chassis making separating body and chassis 'interesting'. So I made it detachable, held in place by splaying out the pipe slightly so it holds itself in place when fitted:

PXL_20260320_112736080.jpg

PXL_20260320_112859130.jpg



The inner cab rear plate is bare so I augmented it with some toolbox doors and a coal hole and upper door, not forgetting a handbrake wheel:

PXL_20260327_124555184.jpg



The displacement lubricators supplied weren't the correct drip-tray feed type. Fortunately I had some spare ones so on they went:

PXL_20260329_103924129.jpg



So the body has reached the painting stage, so it's off to the garden shed for this little lot:

PXL_20260329_103936042.jpg



Getting there...


Cheers
Allan
 

adrian

Flying Squad
Hi,

You're making much better progress with this than I am with mine. Plenty to keep me motivated. Given the issues with the equaliser ducts and balance pipes it was another reason I decided to split as much as possible along the footplate line.

I've been practising my 3D modelling and will be mounting the duct and steps etc. on the chassis rather than the body. At least I won't need to make the balance pipe removable.

balance-pipe - 1.jpeg
 

Allan

Western Thunderer
Hi,

You're making much better progress with this than I am with mine. Plenty to keep me motivated. Given the issues with the equaliser ducts and balance pipes it was another reason I decided to split as much as possible along the footplate line.

I've been practising my 3D modelling and will be mounting the duct and steps etc. on the chassis rather than the body. At least I won't need to make the balance pipe removable.

View attachment 260669
Foof! They're lovely... (can a tank balance duct be lovely?). Note to self: maybe better to invest some time into learning CAD, you know the one: 'too busy chopping wood to sharpen the axe'...
 

Mike W

Western Thunderer
Allan,
I made that decision 15 years ago and enrolled with the local college. One evening a week on AutoCAD, which covers 2D and the basics of 3D. I didn't bother with the certificate at the end, but learned enough to get me by.
Mike
 

NickB

Western Thunderer
When the free licence of Fusion first arrived, I spent three months of evenings (still had a proper job then) learning it by doing a solid model of the loco that I was planning to build. Eight years on, I am still learning - CAM being the latest. Learning by doing was the best (only?) way to get it firmly implanted into the brain.

Nick
 

Alberta

Member
Allan,

May I please ask how you drill the tube along the boiler to take the handrail knobs so accurately and without causing the tube to distort ?
I ask particularly because I am just about to start on a David Andrews Super D kit and have spent a long time worryng about how I might tackle this particular problem.

Peter
 

Brian McKenzie

Western Thunderer
Allan will be much bolder than me, but I use a piece of steel sheet - initially to prepare handrails on - then used as a drilling jig temporarily super glued on to the model. Before sticking the jig on (later released with acetone), I've sometimes sprayed paint through the holes to confirm the alignment.
20260316_174847a Handrail drill jig.jpg
-Brian McK.
 

Genghis

Western Thunderer
Allan,

May I please ask how you drill the tube along the boiler to take the handrail knobs so accurately and without causing the tube to distort ?
I ask particularly because I am just about to start on a David Andrews Super D kit and have spent a long time worryng about how I might tackle this particular problem.

Peter
Stick masking tape on the side of the boiler and mark out the positions for drilling. The tape will stop the drill head from slipping. With a sharp drill you will not get distortion of the boiler. I’ve just drilled holes in a boiler that is half etched, so much thinner than one of David’s usual ones, without any distortion of the tube.
 

Alberta

Member
Thank you.
The point I am interested in is not drilling holes for hand rail knobs in the boiler, but drilling holes in the pipes which run along each side of the boiler of LNWR locos for the hand rail knobs which are inserted in those pipes ( and doing so accurately and without distortion to the pipes ) .
Peter
 

Genghis

Western Thunderer
Thank you.
The point I am interested in is not drilling holes for hand rail knobs in the boiler, but drilling holes in the pipes which run along each side of the boiler of LNWR locos for the hand rail knobs which are inserted in those pipes ( and doing so accurately and without distortion to the pipes ) .
Peter
Sorry, misread your question. File a flat where you need to drill the holes and drill through. The unmolested side then is fitted outwards.
 

Allan

Western Thunderer
Allan,

May I please ask how you drill the tube along the boiler to take the handrail knobs so accurately and without causing the tube to distort ?
I ask particularly because I am just about to start on a David Andrews Super D kit and have spent a long time worryng about how I might tackle this particular problem.

Peter
Hi Peter, you've got some good replies there. For the Super D, I use the same as Dave's (Genghis) method.

Cheers
Allan
 
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