Captain Kernow's workbench

Captain Kernow

Western Thunderer
I like building wagons and converting RTR ones to P4. I find it quite relaxing, in modelling terms. You can do as much or as little as you like in one sitting at the work bench.

I've also been reviewing the collection of OO wagons that I have. Since I sold 'Engine Wood' a few years ago, some of the rolling stock that I have acquired isn't really needed any longer, so some of it will be sold and a few items converted to P4, especially as they will already have been weathered.

Until recently, most of the P4 rolling stock I've built or converted for 'Callow Lane' has been done from scratch, in other words I didn't converted any of my existing OO stuff.

Now that 'Engine Wood' has gone to pastures new, I've realised that I don't need anything like as many 16t minerals in OO, but that I do need more in P4, so it was an easy decision to convert some of the existing weathered OO ones.

I've also been undertaking an extensive programme of fettling and converting a batch of mineral wagons for Re6/6. Most of these are Bachmann 16 tonners, although there is also a batch of 3 Accurascale bauxite 21 tonners in the mix.

When I speak of converting these RTR OO wagons to P4, I'm not talking about installing any fancy compensation or spring systems. I realised some time ago that provided the track is well laid and level and that the wagons is suitably weighted and sits '4 square' on it's wheels, then it should be sufficient to just fit the P4 wheels in the existing OO bearings.

When undertaking such conversions, I used to fit brass bearings to the RTR axle guards, which would normally ensure a very free running wagon, but I've since realised that the amount of mileage that these wagons are likely to clock up on 'Callow Lane' or John Farmer's layouts is so small, that using the existing RTR plastic bearings is quite sufficient.

All these conversions also end up being fitted with 3-link or screw-link couplings. I always use Smiths ones, because although the hooks are a bit overscale, they are considerably easier to use under exhibition conditions. For the last few years, I have also been fitting steel final links and using a magnetic shunters pole. I've found that this is a game-changer when using these couplings in 4mm scale.

Here are some photos of recent work. All the wagons shown have still to be weathered (apologies for any photos already shown on my layout thread).

First off, a set of three bauxite 16 tonners for John Farmer, behind 'Lord Salisbury'. These have had brass tie-bars added between the axle guards.
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With the Bachmann 16 tonners, it's necessary to remove a bit of plastic from the inside of each of the axleguards. This was accomplished using a Rolson rotary tool. The right hand side shows how much plastic is necessary to take out.
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P4 wheels in place:
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Here are John's Accurascale 21 tonners. These are really lovely wagons 'straight out of the box' and pretty straightforward to convert to P4:
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The unfitted 16 tonners are slightly quicker to convert that the fitted ones, in that they don't require a tie bar or any vacuum pipes.

I'd already done this batch of (mainly) 16 tonners for John. Some of these are Bachmann ones, some are fettles Parkside kits:
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There is now this set of 4 factory-weathered ones, currently in the process of being converted. I've noticed that the factory-applied rust patches are the same on each of the four wagons (!), so I will try to customise the weathering in due course:
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I've also done a couple of conversions for myself, as I was getting tired of 16 tonners!

First of all, this Bachmann pipe wagon. In order to reduce the amount of fettling of the RTR brake gear, I have used 12mm Black Beetle wheels, instead of 12.5mm 3-hole disc ones. The P4 wheels pretty much fitted straight in, without any serious fettling required at all. The price of this heinous lack of prototype fidelity is that there are no holes in the (very slightly smaller) wheels, but once they are painted and weathered and the wagon is in service, I doubt that I will even notice.
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'Callow Lane' was always conceived as having a pre-TOPS BR corporate blue operating sequence, so I also converted this Hornby SPV parcels van. This required a little more work on the brake gear. The 'D' end link on the screw-link couplings seems a bit long to me, but that is because I used Ambis steel links. I've almost run out of the excellent Exactoscale ones, which are no longer in production (if anyone has any Exactoscale ones for sale, please do let me know!):
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At the moment, I've also converting an old MAJ van kit to P4, which was also part of the OO stock, but there are no photos at the moment, because it's resting on it's roof to enable the glue holding the lead weights to the underside of the chassis to go off.


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Callow Lane
 

Captain Kernow

Western Thunderer
Hi Tim,
Always lovely to see progress on Callow Lane, are you using Gibson P4 wheels for the conversions?
Mark
Hi Mark,
I've been using the wheels that John has provided! A majority of them are actually old Kean Maygib ones, which fit pretty well to the 16 tonners. I've also used one set of Gibsons on one of the 16 tonners, plus a number of Black Beetle 12mm ones, the latter being useful for the Accurascale 21 tonners, where there is less clearance between the brake shoes.
 

MarkR

Western Thunderer
Hi Tim,
Many thanks for your reply, what's your opinion of the Gibson ones? I have used all my Exactoscale, which I found in some instances to be very fragile, and I am considering Gibsons.
Mark
 

Captain Kernow

Western Thunderer
Hi Tim,
Many thanks for your reply, what's your opinion of the Gibson ones? I have used all my Exactoscale, which I found in some instances to be very fragile, and I am considering Gibsons.
Mark
I have a Gibsons on quite a lot of my P4 rolling stock. I generally haven't had any problems with them. I do check the backs of the flanges for nearby plastic flash from the wheel centres and I also check the B-2-Bs before fitting.

That said, in terms of 14mm coaching stock wheels, I would always opt for Black Beetle wheels now.

I've also used Exactoscale wheels and haven't had a problem yet either! (but perhaps that's because 'Callow Lane' has been so long in the making, that my rolling stock hasn't done much mileage yet!!)
 

MarkR

Western Thunderer
Hi Tim,
Many thanks for your comments.
With regard to the Exactoscale wheels, it wasn't the running, I just found that when prising the axleboxes apart to fit the wheels, sometimes the inner plastic part of the wheel would break, I'm sure it was me being ham fisted! Whilst the Exactoscale wheels are very good, I was hoping the Gibson wheels might be stronger in this respect.
Mark
 

MarkR

Western Thunderer
Hi Tim,
I will give them a try, I have some of their EM wheels which seem quite robust.
Many thanks.
Mark
 

Lyndhurstman

Western Thunderer
Hello @MarkR
The majority of my stock (and I think its don’t even less mileage than CK’s) have Gibson wheels. As CK says, there’s a flash issue with some of them. But a sharp scalpel makes light work of that. There’s the occasional loose tyre, too. I see there’s a reasonably-priced tranche of Kean Maygib’s on EBay ATM…


Cheers

Jan
 

MarkR

Western Thunderer
Hello @MarkR
The majority of my stock (and I think its don’t even less mileage than CK’s) have Gibson wheels. As CK says, there’s a flash issue with some of them. But a sharp scalpel makes light work of that. There’s the occasional loose tyre, too. I see there’s a reasonably-priced tranche of Kean Maygib’s on EBay ATM…
Hi Jan,
Do you fit brass bearings?
Thank you.
Mark
 

Captain Kernow

Western Thunderer
I see there’s a reasonably-priced tranche of Kean Maygib’s on EBay ATM…
As I indicated previously, I have been using some Kean Maygib wheels on some of John's wagons and also on some of my own previously. A little while ago, we bought between us a large batch of second-hand Kean Maygib 3-hole disc wheels in P4 and so I started using some of them on recent conversions (some of my own conversions were some Accurascale HUO hopper wagons).

Fairly soon I found a problem with some of the wheelsets. Some of them seemed to have been somehow deformed slightly, in that the actual wheel (solid turned brass, I presume) on one or both sides of the axle had been somehow bent out-of-true, with the result that that particular wheelset just kept derailing. The only solution is to discard that wheel and try to find a non-deformed one in the pack. I'd say that about 25% of these wheels seem to have some kind of deformation, some worse than others.
 

Lyndhurstman

Western Thunderer
Hi Jan,
Do you fit brass bearings?
Thank you.
Mark
Hi @MarkR
Not always. With RTR stuff, I sometimes just go without. Sometimes, free running is a bad thing :) And there’s a lot of variability between manufacturers for bearings (I’ve settled on AG now). I do have one of those RTR drills that AG used to sell http://www.alangibsonworkshop.com/RTR Drill.pdf

I hope this helps. Message me if you need help with anything.

Cheers

Jan
 
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Lyndhurstman

Western Thunderer
As I indicated previously, I have been using some Kean Maygib wheels on some of John's wagons and also on some of my own previously. A little while ago, we bought between us a large batch of second-hand Kean Maygib 3-hole disc wheels in P4 and so I started using some of them on recent conversions (some of my own conversions were some Accurascale HUO hopper wagons).

Fairly soon I found a problem with some of the wheelsets. Some of them seemed to have been somehow deformed slightly, in that the actual wheel (solid turned brass, I presume) on one or both sides of the axle had been somehow bent out-of-true, with the result that that particular wheelset just kept derailing. The only solution is to discard that wheel and try to find a non-deformed one in the pack. I'd say that about 25% of these wheels seem to have some kind of deformation, some worse than others.
Interesting, CK. And painful. I’ll take note of your useful information and steer clear (I think I have enough wheelsets to last, now..).

Thanks!

Cheers

Jan
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
Derek Lawrence and I had loads of problems with loose tyres at one time, deformed wheels and wheels sliding out of gauge. Derek found brass wheels in the end.
 

MarkR

Western Thunderer
Not always. With RTR stuff, I sometimes just go without. Sometimes, free running is a bad thing :) And there’s a lot of variability between manufacturers for bearings (I’ve settled on AG now). I do have one of those RTR drills that AG used to sellhttp://www.alangibsonworkshop.com/RTR%20Drill.pdf

I hope this helps. Message me if you need help with anything.

Cheers
Hi Jan,
Many thanks for your post, I also have one of the RTR axleboxe drills, which I lost, ordered a replacement, then found the one I lost!!
Mark
 

iak63

Western Thunderer
Having read these posts about wagon wheels, here are some experiences... All of my stock runs on Mostyn, a veritable Marathon for P4 stock to run on. Utter dependability and reliability is paramount.

Kean Maygib are my preferred wheels but only older ones. I see them, I buy them. I too had issues with a batch once mind - frustrating and confusing.

Alan Gibson wheels are a decent product these days after some years of wheel/tyre issues. Wibble wobble & fall apart... I have them and use them if necessary.

Exactoscale wheels are gorgeous but fragile. They do not like a lot of "mileage..." I have had them discombobulate themselves rather painfully. None are used on my stock now, save for some used as wagon loads.

Ultrascale. Very well made, very reliable, very expensive. The Rolls-Royce of wagon wheels. I have used them when the opportunity presents itself through purchase on a well known auction site.
 
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