Brian Daniels diesel workbench

[Brian Daniels]

Thanks Mick. Someone on the Heljan facebook site mentioned the lack of spokes on the bike, so I have just added some in Photoshop

 

[mickoo]

I think a little bit of photoshopping is permissible here and there

I didn't know the noses came completely off, that might be a handy feature as well as the bonnet doors being individual parts as well.

It's a shame they sealed in the side skirts, you could take those off on the first tooling.

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

Thanks Mick. Someone on the Heljan facebook site mentioned the lack of spokes on the bike, so I have just added some in Photoshop

Has the same individual yet pointed out the spokes should be laced around the hub?

This just looks convincing - especially from the 7mm photographers angle.

 

[Brian Daniels]

Got hold of a Judith Edge Yorkshire Engine Co "Janus" 7mm shunter kit earlier this week. I get the idea that this was a 4mm kit that's been made up to 7mm as to make the radiator ends it says to add a bit of wire inside the butt joint to file into a round profile, I think you will need a bit more than wire to make the large radius corners on these! It says to use Slaters MR wagon buffers but I'm struggling to see how I can use the big nut on the rear as the frames are right behind the holes on the bufferbeams. There is no mention of pick-ups so next job is to see about these. I have got a Slaters 29-1 Canon motor and gearbox for it. Instructions are a bit vague at times as it's mostly written with just a side view and plan of chassis and a couple of detail drawings but could do with a plan of the etches with the part numbers on each bit. I have made it with a fixed motored axle and rocking middle and outer axle as per kit.

 

[Bill Campbell]

Hi Brian

When I built my Barclay Class 06 from the Judith Edge kit I made the buffers into self-contained units to avoid the nut at the rear.

I followed the method described by Nick Baines here:

Self contained buffers

No fancy tools required and works very well - it also solves the problem of preventing oval buffers from rotating.

Regards.

 

[Brian Daniels]

Bonnets made up today. It has overlays for the doors to sweat on. Next big job though is to put some curves on the radiator. I soldered some large round rod inside the radiator to give me something to file into. Think there will be some filler on the top corners.

 

[Brian Daniels]

I have been busy with the big file making corners on the bonnets. I do have a Heljan pre-production 02 shunter that has some very nice curves on it. I still might give it a bit more filing. Also got it mobile with a Slaters motor/gearbox. One little problem though, you can't get the body on unless you file a few bits away. I can't anchor the motor either as it needs going a bit upright first as you slip it in then rotate it to the flat to get the rear in the bonnet. Another thing to mull over whilst following the instructions I put a square piece of brass on top of the radiator behind the "Yorkshire" plate support. But it should be a recess like the Heljan 02 with a radiator filler cap in it by the looks of it. I notice you can see it in my Scunthorpe pictures.

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

I always think the 'Janus' is a nice looking diesel shunter.

This is probably a bit of a 'stable door shut after the horse has bolted moment' after reading about the motor/gearbox arrangement.

Is it worth considering an alternative using a smaller gearbox, driving the centre axle and slinging the motor lower between the frames?

It may mean having a false floor in the cab or hiding any protrusion with the control stand.



It's something I did with a Connoisseur 0-4-0 'Nellie' tank engine using a SDMP/Finney7 Power gearbox and Canon 1833 motor. I'll program the decoder to give me the slow speed control.

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

Got hold of a Judith Edge Yorkshire Engine Co "Janus" 7mm shunter kit earlier this week. I get the idea that this was a 4mm kit that's been made up to 7mm as to make the radiator ends it says to add a bit of wire inside the butt joint to file into a round profile, I think you will need a bit more than wire to make

I believe a number (if not all) of their 7mm kits are scaled up from the 4mm versions. Their Harton Colliery Siemens 0-4-0 electric locomotive certainly is.

 

[Brian Daniels]

Done a bit more on Janus. Balance weights added and filled with Isopon. Brakes and rodding added. Sandboxes were found to be a bit narrow for the brackets they glue in to so I packed them out with plasticard to make them a little bit wider. I found I had a set of Finney 7 Southern self contained buffers so have used them as they are not far off the type used on the Scunthorpe loco's. And is just an industrial so anything goes as I am not basing it on any particular loco. Cab roof has now been soldered on. All the little base plates for the handrails are on as well. Took it to our local club on Sunday and it ran like a dream. Next job that I have been putting off is all the access cover handles which is why I have not added the front grills yet as I might want to get the iron in through the hole.

 

[Brian Daniels]

I think I have now finished the Janus. The handrails were interesting to solder up! The little door catches on the hoods were made with 16ba bolts soldered in and 0.4mm wire soldered in the slot. Windy wipers are some JLTRT ones I thankfully still had 4 off. I do still have the control stand to make, just wish I could find a picture of one to follow. I want to chip it and am thinking of a Digitrains Zimo one.

 

[TimC]

The Janus control stand is featured a fair bit in this 'Driving a Janus....' Youtube video. There are 3 parts, link to part 1 below.

 

[James]

I do still have the control stand to make, just wish I could find a picture of one to follow.

Might these help? I made a full photo survey of Scunthorpe No. 1 back in 2018.

 

[Brian Daniels]

That's brilliant James, thankyou so much.

 

[Osgood]

What an eclectic set of gauges!

 

[James]

That's brilliant James, thankyou so much.

You're very welcome

 

[paulc]

What an eclectic set of gauges!

Cobbled together from stuff .

 

[simond]

I’m wondering if there’s a bit of ergonomics involved, would the apparently random orientations suggest that when all is well, all the needles are pointing upwards (except the fuel gauge, which suggests that pointing downwards is probably time for remedial action)?

 

[Brian Daniels]

Thanks to James and the link to the videos I now have a control stand. Would have liked some round headed pins but I ain't got any so normal pins will do. The brake handles are from the Heljan class 73. I thought there were seats in the cab and thanks to the video you could see them so I raided the spares box for a set of PRMRP ones. I think I will hang on with the painting until I have run it on a couple of layouts and handled it a bit more to make sure those handrails are not going to break.
I think I will fit a headlight to the bonnet top as I have one that Lee Edmondson sold, the same as on the 37 in the shed further up this thread, but I have a bonnet top mounted one rather than a vertical surface mount one.

 

[PaulRhB]

You could turn the pins into balls with a dab of epoxy on top and work some round the bottom with a pin. I’ve used that on those fine peco pins for control levers.