A Tale of Two Serpents

paulc

Western Thunderer
Milliput would be my go to to fill the holes and all the corner joints. Shouldn’t take too long.
My thought as well although I use Tamiya putty . For the step chasm would it be better to solder a blanking plate then chain drill a slot closer to the size of the step ?
 

Phil O

Western Thunderer
Would a fillet of solder, do the business? I've had several coach kits and that's what I do, it's not perfect, but it helps and strengthens the corners. A bit of filler on the outside to finish the job.
 

magmouse

Western Thunderer
Thanks all for the suggestions for fixing the deficiencies of the kit - and these methods might well work. However, I've taken a dislike to it, and I feel I can make a better job of the body in styrene, rather than trying to bodge round the kit's failings. I've done enough of that with the Serpent itself!

By the time I come back to it, I may have different thoughts, so your comments aren't wasted, and are appreciated.

Nick.
 
Lettering (Nick) New

magmouse

Western Thunderer
Lettering done:

IMG_6999.jpeg

All from Slaters waterslide, from their GWR wagon range that used to be Coopercraft. There are a couple of compromises - on the left end, it should go "To [hole] Carry 12 Tons", but even on the prototype the word "tons" is pretty squashed up, so I had no chance using the available transfers. The other thing is the tare weight should have a third digit, representing quarters of a hundredweight. Again, there isn't room.

If anyone can enlighten me as to the significance of the white line near the centre, I'd be grateful - I've just copied the photo, using a piece of an "L" from "LMS" - never going to need that! And before you suggest it - it doesn't show the centre line, because it's not in the centre...

Nick.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Painting and writing makes a positive difference, definitely now an unique model.

Need to ask AI if there was ever a sighting of your Serpent on the S&WR.... or apply rule 1.
 

magmouse

Western Thunderer
Thanks Graham - I feel this build is (finally!) on the home straight, with the chains/shackles, brake lever, buffers and couplings to fit, the securing pins on the chocks to do, and finally paint touch-up and weathering.

Need to ask AI if there was ever a sighting of your Serpent on the S&WR.... or apply rule 1.

Given that these were mainly used to transport furniture vans (pantechnicons), they might reasonably turn up anywhere they could be unloaded, if someone was moving house from a place in GWR territory to your chosen location. No need for rule 1, I don't think - just an end loading dock.

Nick.
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
....
If anyone can enlighten me as to the significance of the white line near the centre, I'd be grateful - I've just copied the photo, using a piece of an "L" from "LMS" - never going to need that! And before you suggest it - it doesn't show the centre line, because it's not in the centre...
...

Nick - according to Atkins, Beard and Tourret in GWR GOODS WAGONS (P.66) - it should be 3" wide and there were two types:

On wagons with only one brake lever, in the 1880s and 1890s half-height (solebar height) stripes were painted on the lever side only.​
By 1900 brakes levers were appearing on both sides and this was denoted by a full-height stripe on both sides.​
 

magmouse

Western Thunderer
Nice job you’ve made of that.

Thanks, John!

The word “pantechnicon” intrigued me. Having had some classical education beaten into me some decades ago, I had some inkling of the etymology, but I’m pleased I looked it up

Yes, it's a nice bit of history, that. Also worth noting that the Wikipedia article has some typical dimensions for these which may be useful.

Nick - according to Atkins, Beard and Tourret in GWR GOODS WAGONS (P.66) - it should be 3" wide and there were two types:

On wagons with only one brake lever, in the 1880s and 1890s half-height (solebar height) stripes were painted on the lever side only.By 1900 brakes levers were appearing on both sides and this was denoted by a full-height stripe on both sides.

Brilliant! - thanks, Tony. I can't think why I've not noticed this before - it's a feature I should be retro-fitting to my other wagons. I also realise I need to remove it from one side of the serpent...

It took me a moment to think what the purpose of this was - I assume the idea is that a shunter needs to know if a wagon has brakes on the far side, since with independent either-side brakes, you need to check both sides are released to be sure the brakes are fully off. The white stripe saves peering under the wagon to see if it has a second set of brakes, or a trip round the other side that might be unnecessary.

Nick.
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
Don't go too mad!
The authors qualify their notes with something like: 'On wagons that were likely to be shunted in goods yards, stripes were often .....'
No idea if there was a date period for the stripes, and many wagons don't have a stripe.
An example of full-depth stripe below (copyright HMRS):

Screenshot 2026-03-24 at 08.32.04.png
 

magmouse

Western Thunderer
Don't go too mad!

Never let it be said...

A very quick flip through some photos suggests the strips appear on post 1904 liveries wagons (large, 25" GW), but not by the time we get to the 16" GW livery - though that is after my period, so I don't pay too much attention. Special wagons such as crocodiles don't seem to have them, whioh accords with ABT's note about 'wagons likely to be shunted in goods yards'.

Thanks again, Tony.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Not to forget the white stripe in the "oblique" style which means "vacuum brake fitted", know by photographic reference to have been painted on solebars of shunting trucks. You are going to provide a chariot for Basuto Quay?

Rgds, Graham
 

magmouse

Western Thunderer
You are going to provide a chariot for Basuto Quay?

It seems rather over the top for a quayside with two sidings and an end-loading/milk/fish dock. Maybe one day, but it's not high on the priority list. Also, there is the matter of practicalities - attaching a shunter's truck to the loco effectively makes the loco longer, and so not able to fit into the head shunt...
 
* completed wagon * (Nick) New

magmouse

Western Thunderer
The Accursed Serpent is now technically complete:

IMG_7003.jpeg

The securing pins for the wheel chocks were bent up from some 0.4mm blackened iron wire, with their retaining chains made from a twist of 5A fuse wire:

IMG_7004.jpeg

Thin CA glue dropped in on the end of a piece of wire secures everything.

The buffers are Peco, with extra packing between the guide and the headstock, as per the drawing. This meant the head stuck out too far, so I had to cut 1mm lengths of brass tube to go over the stem behind the headstock, to stop it being pushed too far forward by the spring:

IMG_7009.jpeg

Paint touch-up and weathering next. In the meantime, a few more rough shots:

IMG_7005.jpeg

IMG_7007.jpeg

IMG_7008.jpeg

I was planning to make this quite a scruffy looking wagon, on the basis it is still carrying grease boxes, which the stock register shows 42079 had changed to oil in 1908 - the year I'm modelling. This wagon and one other were the last of its type to receive oil boxes, both in 1908. It seems reasonable that the axle box change would take place during a general overhaul and repaint into grey livery, so immediately before that it would be looking rather unkempt.

However, I rather like the crispness of this wagon in it's clean red livery, so I may dial back the weathering - less historically accurate, but more aesthetically pleasing - to me, at least.

Feel free to offer opinions on this!

Nick.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
The Accursed Serpent is now technically complete:

View attachment 260385

The securing pins for the wheel chocks were bent up from some 0.4mm blackened iron wire, with their retaining chains made from a twist of 5A fuse wire:

View attachment 260386

Thin CA glue dropped in on the end of a piece of wire secures everything.

The buffers are Peco, with extra packing between the guide and the headstock, as per the drawing. This meant the head stuck out too far, so I had to cut 1mm lengths of brass tube to go over the stem behind the headstock, to stop it being pushed too far forward by the spring:

View attachment 260390

Paint touch-up and weathering next. In the meantime, a few more rough shots:

View attachment 260387

View attachment 260388

View attachment 260389

I was planning to make this quite a scruffy looking wagon, on the basis it is still carrying grease boxes, which the stock register shows 42079 had changed to oil in 1908 - the year I'm modelling. This wagon and one other were the last of its type to receive oil boxes, both in 1908. It seems reasonable that the axle box change would take place during a general overhaul and repaint into grey livery, so immediately before that it would be looking rather unkempt.

However, I rather like the crispness of this wagon in it's clean red livery, so I may dial back the weathering - less historically accurate, but more aesthetically pleasing - to me, at least.

Feel free to offer opinions on this!

Nick.
It’s really rather nice, and I submit, well worth the effort you’ve put in.

Start with gentle weathering and see how you feel.

best
Simon
 
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