warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Fred Lewis (welshwizard) showed me a method at Bristol, I'm sure if he sees this he will explain
A slow way into a Castle...........
- Thread starter John TAYLOR
- Start date
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Did it use glass-fibre rod by any chance...? Page three of the references Dan gave.
Steph
Steph
John TAYLOR
Western Thunderer
Ok , I`ve read up and am ready to click the `buy now` button on everything I need to follow the page 1 method.
............................................. BUT.......................................
I`m concerned about Slaters New plastic hornblocks. From what I`m reading on here there is too much sloppy fit in the bearings and that
wont do for me, even though it`s just the tender axles. I dont want the risk of shorting against the brass brake blocks, as she will be DCC.
All my 4mm locos use the Kean Maygib hornblocks and I have seen Slaters old type and I would be happy using those, but I understand they are no longer available.
Any thoughts folk ??????
............................................. BUT.......................................
I`m concerned about Slaters New plastic hornblocks. From what I`m reading on here there is too much sloppy fit in the bearings and that
wont do for me, even though it`s just the tender axles. I dont want the risk of shorting against the brass brake blocks, as she will be DCC.
All my 4mm locos use the Kean Maygib hornblocks and I have seen Slaters old type and I would be happy using those, but I understand they are no longer available.
Any thoughts folk ??????
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
I can't remember as I was half asleep
but vaguely remember a shoe lace and some araldite.
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
I've used a lot of the old type Slaters hornblocks with great success. However, the new ones fail by not being adjustable vertically without modification. In fact there is no vertical screw adjustment.
You may like to have a word with Steph of this parish. He's designed some hornblocks with suitable adjustment.
Brian
You may like to have a word with Steph of this parish. He's designed some hornblocks with suitable adjustment.
Brian
John TAYLOR
Western Thunderer
Well... I bought the extra tools needed but could`nt track down any of the older Slater`s plastic hornblocks to try my hand at split axle pickups, so not trusting the `upgraded version` I opted for using plunger pickups after all. Once that decision was in the bag I pushed forward with completing the chassis.
Not a great fan of etched brake rods and it was a fag making those cosmetic joints with lengths of brass rod.
Plunger pickups have not been fixed as I intend to paint the chassis first.
There was nothing wrong with the etched brake pads but I prefer using the white metal replacements from Hobbydevelopments as they give a more solid appearance and match with the cast springs.
It`s nice to have a kit that can be disassembled to make painting a little easier........ I got the wheels off and I hope I can get them back on when that time comes..........
I made a bit of a booboo with the pull rods........ and having sprung hornblocks needed some thought when fixing the brakes in place to allow some downward movement..... anyway it`s all fixed solid and the chassis is now complete enough for painting.
But first ....to apply the many details to the body............
Not a great fan of etched brake rods and it was a fag making those cosmetic joints with lengths of brass rod.
Plunger pickups have not been fixed as I intend to paint the chassis first.
There was nothing wrong with the etched brake pads but I prefer using the white metal replacements from Hobbydevelopments as they give a more solid appearance and match with the cast springs.
It`s nice to have a kit that can be disassembled to make painting a little easier........ I got the wheels off and I hope I can get them back on when that time comes..........
I made a bit of a booboo with the pull rods........ and having sprung hornblocks needed some thought when fixing the brakes in place to allow some downward movement..... anyway it`s all fixed solid and the chassis is now complete enough for painting.
But first ....to apply the many details to the body............