A question for the weathering experts - fading paintwork

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
A question of the weathering experts - fading paintwork

Pugsley said:
Possibly, were they from the same manufacturer?  In theory, once acrylics have dried, a further application of thinners shouldn't re-wet them, especially the more water based ones.  I've experienced Tamiya paints being re-wet by their thinners, but it was an extremely thin wash to start with - slightly thicker washes don't seem to have the same problem.
`
Cheers Pugs , It was the same manufacturer.....maybe I didn't allow enough drying time, I will experiment further  :scratch:

Phill  :thumbs:
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
A question of the weathering experts - fading paintwork

Well I never another Jordan incarnation. Who is this masked guy? Sarge, Rosemary the telephone operator, Henry the mild mannered Janitor could be  H**g K**g P****y No1 Super guy. :)) :))

Ian
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
Try again nearly finished just a bit of remedial work
Ian
 

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Jordan or Plymouth Mad

Mid-Western Thunderer
Certainly getting there :thumbs:

I've found Brake Vans the hardest wagons to weather; as their duties varied so much, none of them seem to have a "typical" weathering pattern; look at any number of them and they're all different :headbang: Faded paint and rotted or replacement planking seem to be the most common things  :scratch:

Is the lamp battery powered by the way ??
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
yes mate 2 AAA's  I sabotaged a kitchen implement (a temperature probe) to get the compartment connections for the batteries cut 2 holes under the floor wired if up put a switch inside the body with the lever pointing down and Bobs your uncle.

Ian
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
The first view is of the battery compartment the conections are wedge fitted into the plastic in the drag weight under the body of the brake van. I didn't want the batteries in side as I didn't want to take the roof off to have to change batteries everytime. The wiring is concealed as much as possible inside the wagon but there are some places where it showing cannot be avoided like inside the wagon( the guard standing looking out of the rear veranda should cover some of it) The second view is just the same as the first but taken lengthways with the light on. The third view is with the 16 ton minerals. There is a little bit of remedial work to be undertaken the side needs to be repaired it was very flimsy and didn't survive an altercation with the WB

Ian
 

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iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
That where the fun started I got the brake van of Ebay and it came with 4 tailights looking at them they are cast brass hollow in the middle. I very gingerly drilled a hole through the casing at the from to open it up to the diameter of the lens then took my slitting Dremel and cut the rear of the lamp out so it sat on the bulb. I then sanded the lip of the back of the bulb to make it fit inside the light , glued it into place, soldered thin wires on to the bulb and then heat shrinked around the connection. I removed the lamp bracket drilled a hole just big enough to pass the wire through in the back of the varandah  and then pulled the whole assembly tight. then routed it through the floor and under the wagon to the battery pack and switch respectively.

Ian
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
Forgot to say the LED's come from Maplins in a pack of assorted sizes and colours if you want the part no I will get it for you. The LED's work off about 3 volts so 2 AAA's are adequate and do not require resisting down any further.


Ian
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
The actual fitting and running of the tail light is no  problem it's the fitting the LED into the actual tail light casing I had trouble with a 3mm hole in a 5mm body I scapped 1 and broke the handle off another before I had the desired effect

Ian
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
iploffy said:
Forgot to say the LED's come from Maplins in a pack of assorted sizes and colours if you want the part no I will get it for you. The LED's work off about 3 volts so 2 AAA's are adequate and do not require resisting down any further.


Ian

Phill the part description is Velleman set of 80 assorted LED's  in the set are 15 3mm green, 20 3mm red, 15 5mm green,20 5mm red and 10 5mm yellow

Ian
 

Jordan or Plymouth Mad

Mid-Western Thunderer
Neat work on the lamp. Ian! :thumbs:
I was most surprised to see the battery location - I'd never have thought there was enough room under the floor, and would've instinctively looked at putting them inside the body, but that way is much better! :bowdown:
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
Jordan said:
Neat work on the lamp. Ian! :thumbs:
I was most surprised to see the battery location - I'd never have thought there was enough room under the floor,
Stanier brake vans had a box under the floor, filled with scrap metal, to provide weight to the van.
Useful extra depth to hide things.
and would've instinctively looked at putting them inside the body, but that way is much better!
On a standard brake van, it might be necessary to raise the floor within the body.
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
I found as long as you use AAA's there is enough room under the floor in the Standard 20 ton brake van. The original Brake van I have tried to copy the weathering off is a deep filled example as per the photo but the one I have build is a shallow example

Ian
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
iploffy said:
they are cast brass hollow in the middle.
Ian

They sound like the Slaters ones that I bought for Severn.

Looking excellent Ian I do like the way you have hidden the battery holder and the cannibalisation of the household implement :))
 
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