3 Links Work Bench

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
Hi Guys,

Due to some interest shown I have started a build of the Slaters 6 wheeled Milk tanker, I do rate the Slaters kits, the only thing I would say that they do lack is weight. So I have addressed this already by putting some lead in the tank and securing it with Araldite, I'm sure you do not need to see how this is done as I have already done it :) before being asked to show the build on here. I have started by building the tank first but this is just my preference you can build it later on if you want, as you can see it still needs some sanding down and filling and I have already drilled the holes for the valves, filler and vents.

P1060282-1.JPG

One thing I think I should mention, as you can see from the underframe above, there are more stretchers on the left hand side for some reason. I tended to use this as a reference quite a lot as there is an awful lot of brake linkages to fit later and it helps you keep the frame the right way round.
I have put a photo below of the Tanker I am building as there are a few in their range, and although they probably have a similar style of construction I do not want to mislead you chaps in case that is not the case :thumbs:.

P1060283-1.JPG

ATB, Martyn.
 

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
Managed to grab a couple more hours this morning, so I have chemically blackened the wheels as they have to be fitted quite early on in the build and it will hopefully give them some protection when I have to do some soldering on the brake linkages :). Here as you can see are the blackened wheels, I don't know why I put them up on here as I am sure you have all seen similar before :oops: , ahh that's right a certain person requested "loads" of photos :D:thumbs:

P1060287-1.JPG

Next job which I must admit I do find tedious is to form some U channels on the underframe using the plasticard strips provided, this is better explained with the photo below. The plastic white strips help to keep the coupling hook rods in place and is also prototypical, otherwise you could quite easily skip this part as it is time consuming and cannot be seen " unless derailed " :eek:. It's a bit like internal valve gear or coach interiors, but as it's for you lot I have fitted it all in :thumbs:, I have also fitted the vacuum and steam heat pipes.

P1060285-1.JPG

Hopefully squeeze in another hour this afternoon, fingers crossed.

ATB, Martyn.
 

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
Hi Guys,

There are two types of chemical blackening that I know of, Carrs sell one in a liquid form and the one I prefer is in a paste and is made by Birchwood Casey, it's mainly sold by Gunsmiths. You can either dip the wheels in the liquid until they blacken or rub some in with a cotton bud, the process only takes a couple of minutes depending on the strength of the metal. And to stop the process just run the wheels under a cold tap to neutralise the chemical, then just make sure you dry them thoroughly.

The centre axle does not have any brakes so there is a fair bit of side play as standard, on my test track I have two Peco turnouts which I think are 6' radius ? and they flow straight through those without any binding or drag :thumbs: .

Right I managed to grab a bit more time this afternoon and have ended up with a rolling chassis :drool:, so below are just a couple of tips and a few more pictures. In the first picture you will see a couple of locating holes on the axle guards, these usually need opening out but be careful because these holes aid in setting up the ride height and need just the slightest tweak, I use a 1mm drill bit but you could use a broach.
P1060289-1.JPG


Once they are all fitted and glued to the solebars I then mix up some Araldite for additional strength, you do not have to do this it's just my way of doing things. You can see from the photo where I apply the glue :thumbs:

P1060290-1.JPG

The raised lugs on the axle guards are to help locate the leaf springs, then it's fairly straight forward to fit the axle boxes and top hat bearings and wheels, only then will you know if you have a straight chassis :eek:.

P1060295-1.JPG

Both tankers have sat with all wheels touching on a sheet of plate glass first time without any tweaking, this I think is down to a good quality kit and also taking your time :thumbs:.

I also had time to build up the buffers although I will not fit them until after the brake linkage is in place, the buffer shanks need drilling out as they are still full of casting sand. You need to be fairly exact when drilling them out if you want them to work smoothly, I use a 1.25mm bit first and drill right through the shank, then I use a 1.65mm bit and only go in far enough so that the buffer can fully compress with the spring in place. Once done I put a dab of super glue on the back of the buffer threads to stop the nuts from working loose (once bittern twice shy ;)) and finish the buffer heads with a dip in the blackening agent.

P1060296-1.JPG

And the last two images are of the rolling chassis on my workbench :thumbs:.

P1060299-1.JPG
P1060301-1.JPG



ATB, Martyn.
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
Watching with interest; I fancy having a go at one of these kits.:thumbs:

Likewise. :) It's always good to see what's happening on other people's workbenches, especially when it's the same kind of era and locos/rolling stock that I'm into. :thumbs:

Keep it coming please Martyn.


Regards

Dan
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
Love the House of Commons letter you have finally found a use for the drivel that MP's write to us mixing glue ace, Why not post it back to them and get their sticky little fingers stuck even more:D:D:D:D
 

Old Buffer

Western Thunderer
Martyn,
Keep up the good work, watching with interest, thought you might have had to to use the Cleminson system for the centre axle. Just 0ne thing, noticed you use superglue on the buffer threads, I always use the wifes nail varnish, I find it easier to remove the nuts if need occurs.
Alan
 

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
Great stuff Martyn :thumbs:...........could I ask what you used to spray the tank?

Cheers Phill :)

Hi Phill'

It's Halfords Aluminium and I am merely using it as a base coat at the moment, once the weather warms up it will be receiving a heavy coat of weathering along with the rest of the rolling stock I have built over the winter months :thumbs:.

ATB, Martyn.
 

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
Martyn,
Just 0ne thing, noticed you use superglue on the buffer threads, I always use the wifes nail varnish, I find it easier to remove the nuts if need occurs.
Alan

Hi Alan,

I also use nail varnish (but not the wife's or she would be removing my nuts :eek::D) but mainly on coupling rods and valve gear, hopefully the buffers will be a permanent fixture :thumbs: . As for using the Cleminson system, once the all the brake linkages are in place I think you would struggle to find the space required being quite a short wheelbase, and plus I'm all for the easy life ;).

ATB, Martyn.
 

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
Love the House of Commons letter you have finally found a use for the drivel that MP's write to us mixing glue ace, Why not post it back to them and get their sticky little fingers stuck even more:D:D:D:D

Well it is a good quality paper and as "we" brought it in the first place I thought why not re-cycle it, perhaps I should send some on to you as it was from a CONservative and they are like you and like anything that's BLUE ! Sorry I couldn't help myself :D:)):thumbs:.

ATB, Martyn.
 
D

David Siddall

Guest
Nice work Martyn... now I'm going to have to get one (or two, or three). What with you (and a certain gentleman from Dorset) building them there's no excuse.

And thanks for the paint tip (Halford's Aluminium). I used Humbrol Steel for my OO versions and even after weathering I couldn't get that distinctive dusty grey colour the tanks seemed to go when the paint started to fade.

D
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
Well it is a good quality paper and as "we" brought it in the first place I thought why not re-cycle it, perhaps I should send some on to you as it was from a CONservative and they are like you and like anything that's BLUE ! Sorry I couldn't help myself :D:)):thumbs:.

ATB, Martyn.

Well that deserves a reply, I only like things in BLUE with YELLOW ends not blue with yellow running all the way through them, that are still on the rails and cannot 'U' turn when things go wrong. The railway give our OAP's a discount with a railcard, those b******s just fleece them :headbang:
 
Top