Scattergun 16mm scale SAR NGG16
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Weeeellll you never knowNot a NSWGR AD60 as well then.
Nice as they are all of this comes down to drawings, or the lack of, I've not tracked down any AD60 drawings anywhere, trust me I've looked
but if I had spare cash I'd grab the DJH one and scale it up 
I've found a source of drawings for the N&W A Class and UP Challenger but your looking at serious wedge of cash
where as SAR steam engines are about £23 for a full set of digitised works drawings.MD
mickoo
Western Thunderer
John,
Of course you do, I'd forgotten about them...which jogs my memory that I have drawings for some Aussie NSW diesels and projects as well
Question is, where on earth have I stored those drawings?
I do have that rather super AD60 book from Australia mind
MD
mickoo
Western Thunderer
A small update as the W1 etches are back and need progressing.
The bolts arrived this week and like all others I've looked at, the heads are too deep, I presume this is so you can actually use them as bolts and the over deep head is for small tools to grip.
Out of the packet the heads are 1.0 mm deep, which is about twice as deep as they should be, so the question was, how to reduce the size of the head.
A mini lathe would be handy but the chuck on mine does not go this small, I can barely hold them with my fingers. So a cunning plan was devised, basically a hand made jig from some scrap brass that was 0.50 mm thick.
Place the bolts in the vice loosely and then with a bit of wriggling line them up with the jig, it's a simple jig with five 2.0mm holes in. Once the bolts are all square and in place then simply tighten the vice, file the heads and there you have it, consistent bolts with 0.50mm deep heads.
The visual impact is worth the effort, two of the super heater bracket bolts have the correct head depth, one is from the packet.
Finally an overall view when the W1 stopped play, not much to show other than the smoke box door flange is in place, ready for the brackets and door locking bars across the front. The two outer access doors on the baffle back plate are fitted and all that's required now are two handles on the outer doors and the four fixings on the middle door.
The door clips were a pain to make consistently and accurately but by the end they were turning out more like the real thing, having said that from the few images I've seen the real things are just tack welded on and level and straight are not two words you'd readily use to describe their fitment. Fortunately there's a front plate with mesh cinder guard to go on so all of this just needs to be representational, unless of course I'm make the cinder guards removable.
Mick D
The bolts arrived this week and like all others I've looked at, the heads are too deep, I presume this is so you can actually use them as bolts and the over deep head is for small tools to grip.
Out of the packet the heads are 1.0 mm deep, which is about twice as deep as they should be, so the question was, how to reduce the size of the head.
A mini lathe would be handy but the chuck on mine does not go this small, I can barely hold them with my fingers. So a cunning plan was devised, basically a hand made jig from some scrap brass that was 0.50 mm thick.
Place the bolts in the vice loosely and then with a bit of wriggling line them up with the jig, it's a simple jig with five 2.0mm holes in. Once the bolts are all square and in place then simply tighten the vice, file the heads and there you have it, consistent bolts with 0.50mm deep heads.
The visual impact is worth the effort, two of the super heater bracket bolts have the correct head depth, one is from the packet.
Finally an overall view when the W1 stopped play, not much to show other than the smoke box door flange is in place, ready for the brackets and door locking bars across the front. The two outer access doors on the baffle back plate are fitted and all that's required now are two handles on the outer doors and the four fixings on the middle door.
The door clips were a pain to make consistently and accurately but by the end they were turning out more like the real thing, having said that from the few images I've seen the real things are just tack welded on and level and straight are not two words you'd readily use to describe their fitment. Fortunately there's a front plate with mesh cinder guard to go on so all of this just needs to be representational, unless of course I'm make the cinder guards removable.
Mick D
John,
Of course you do, I'd forgotten about them...which jogs my memory that I have drawings for some Aussie NSW diesels and projects as well
Question is, where on earth have I stored those drawings?
I do have that rather super AD60 book from Australia mind
MD
Hi,
I hope that the following is helpful and not intrusive.
Among Moçambique’s garratts were the Henschel 4-8-2 + 2-8-4 such as 973 at:
Garratts in Southern Africa
To me as striking as the livery of Canadian Pacific Railway locomotives.
To me, the best selection, for availability of garratt drawings are those held by the National Archives of Australia, Australian Government.
At top right hand corner enter "Compound Tank" in the “search the collection” field, then “refine search" by ticking the ‘Digital Copies Only” box. Available for viewing and downloading are the sixty-nine drawings and index for the first garratt.
Using the advanced search screen, a General Arrangement drawing for the M class 4-4-2+2-4-4 and the L class 2-6-2+2-6-2 can be seen using the barcodes 7812099 and 7812100 respectively. More drawings are held of these locomotives.
Best regards,
Peter
Last edited:
Locomodels
Western Thunderer
To turn the bolt heads down put the bolts in a pinchuck and put that on the lathe chuck. Also you can chamfer the heads neatly too.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
simond
Western Thunderer
or, if you have gazillions of them to do, chuck an offcut of round brass (or whatever), drill and tap it to suit, and centre pop it near #1 jaw of the chuck so it goes back in the same place next time you have to do some more - then just screw them in, face and chamfer, unscrew, screw in the next one, repeat ad infinitum. Grinding a tool to face and chamfer is probably worthwhile as you can then do them all on a single setting - just twiddle the cross-slide.
HTH
Simon
HTH
Simon