Mickoo's BR modelling

[dibateg]

When I built my pair of JLTRT Derbys, I thought it was a nonsense that you couldnt get the wheelsets out, so I drilled and pinned them:-



Obvs wont work with your model Mick - but in the future...

For some reason - I have a couple of right hand 25 frames if you need them...

Cheers
Tony

 

[mickoo]

When I built my pair of JLTRT Derbys, I thought it was a nonsense that you couldnt get the wheelsets out, so I drilled and pinned them:-
View attachment 266051


Obvs wont work with your model Mick - but in the future...

For some reason - I have a couple of right hand 25 frames if you need them...

Cheers
Tony

What a spiffingly good idea, I have another unbuilt 25 to do, a 26 and a brace of 47's so will explore that method on those

I'm alright for side frames at the moment.........but duly noted

 

[SimonT]

Mick,
I did a similar trick on all the locos on Aberbig. A strap and pin bonded to the bogie outside casting; a 10BA screw attaches the strap to the top surface of the bogie inner. Two pins to locate the outside correctly. Photos if you want

 

[john lewsey]

Mick,
I did a similar trick on all the locos on Aberbig. A strap and pin bonded to the bogie outside casting; a 10BA screw attaches the strap to the top surface of the bogie inner. Two pins to locate the outside correctly. Photos if you want

Hiya Simon ,did you ever do a video of Abberbig ?

 

[mickoo]

A little BR blue time this afternoon, I had to get a supplementary sheets done for the Urie S15 so added a rad grill and step blanks (not fitted) for the 25. quick waft with a file and some dabs of solder and the big hole now has a grill.

For some odd reason the boiler vent had been hacked off, not sure what's here on the virgin kit roof or why it was taken off bu a new 3D one was whizzed up and fitted, for the anoraks it has a slotted intake where it meets the hatches right near the centre line, it's a little nick nack but it ticked my boxes.

 

[Cliff Williams]

Mick I think it sticks out a bit more than that. Originally it’s a whitemetal casting on the model, produced to be too large, I cut mine down
Pic of 25235

 

[mickoo]

Yes, I think you're probably right, bollox.....

I'll see if I can pry it off and shuffle it out a fraction or print a new one with a wider lip and fit. Your shot confirms it pretty much follows the headcode box profile

 

[mickoo]

Pat and his black and white cat delivered these today.

Although I already have two on back order with MOK, this one turned up on Ebay earlier in the week with metal wheels and requisite motor/gearbox, it was rude not to make it a trio.

I do have a plan for one of the three to rebuild but just need to check some drawings. These three will all be mine on top of two commissions later in the year, one full and one engine only.

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

I do have a plan for one of the three to rebuild but just need to check some drawings. These three will all be mine

I trust they will be finished in filthy black without a trace of green .

Why not build one as a cab forward for a laugh . That'll get the chattering classes going.

 

[Genghis]

I am thoroughly enjoying my build of this. I too have one in my personal stash: it's going to be 92250. I've had the chimney longer than I've had the kit.

 

[mickoo]

Class 25 body already for top coats, finally got around to filling the water hatch filler steps and add etched blanking overlays and fit a slightly larger 3D boiler vent, also filled some joint gaps and pre-shaded.

I may go back before I do the blue and preshade the covered panels at the #2 end by the doors and a bit more around the headcode boxes around the gutter area.

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

I may go back before I do the blue and preshade the covered panels at the #2 end by the doors and a bit more around the headcode boxes around the gutter area.

I would also give a light coating of ivory (or off white) a few degrees from the vertical - but not directly over - from the top so it hits the top edges, cab fronts and corners as they would have been prone to more wet weather attrition by being driven into it.

Ideally you would spray the 'pre-shading' black upwards (or downwards if the body is upside down) so the shading sits under the raised panels, window frames, gutter, panel joins, light housings, etc.

 

[SouthernFan Ian]

Class 25 body already for top coats, finally got around to filling the water hatch filler steps and add etched blanking overlays and fit a slightly larger 3D boiler vent, also filled some joint gaps and pre-shaded.

I may go back before I do the blue and preshade the covered panels at the #2 end by the doors and a bit more around the headcode boxes around the gutter area.

View attachment 268081

View attachment 268082

This is the first time I’ve seen pre shading on a railway model. Aircraft and military modellers use pre shading with great effect. Cannot wait to see the end result. Well done on pushing the boundaries Mick.