Trumpeter 1:35 scale DRG Baureihe 86 display model.

[P A D]

Thanks Richard.

No, I won't be making a diorama. The kit came with a plastic display plinth and track. The moulded ballast on the plinth looked awful so that went in the bin early doors. I'll make a plinth from a suitable length of wood, add the track and ballast it up properly. I've no idea where I will display it as my wife isn't keen on models, which is why I sold on 5 of the 7 Pacifics I've built. As I can't run or display them, I've decided to stick to smaller locos that can run on my brother's layout, so the A3 and A4 you saw at Doncaster will also be sold, once lock down is over and I can get them back from Warren's. I really fancied the F7 W1, but that's a lot of money for something to store in a box. The BR86 was something of an aberration, but such an interesting prototype and it's a long time since I last built an Airfix kit.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[Tim Watson]

Some Airfix kit...

Tim

 

[P A D]

I have now added the remaining details to the chassis to allow it to be primed and painted. Here's the steam pipe from the front connection. My styrene rod order from Slaters arrived the other day so I gave it a go. It doesn't retain the bends as well as copper, but can be easily glued in place using the plastic weld solvent.

And the rear one. Although I used styrene rod at the front, I went back to copper wire for the rear steam pipe. However, the pipe run through the frames was more difficult to do in copper wire so I used the styrene rod for that.

You can just see the main steam heat pipe run through the chassis in this view, running above the driving axles and up through the spacer above the third axle. The styrene rod terminates above the spacer and the final run back to the cab is in copper again. This view is mainly to show the safety brackets for the brake gear added to the frames. It should be flat section strip but I used rod as that was all I had. I also located them on the outside of the frames as the brake rigging has to be in place first and after numerous attempts to fit the brackets inside, I gave up. To allow the brake rigging to be fitted before the wheels, I have cut down the locating stubs on the wheels, which allows them to be wiggled on and off past the brake shoes.


I think the round section should pass muster after painting.


This is the handwheel added to the water valve under the cab.


The hand wheel was made from these etched parts, with the ring added from copper wire.


I made a start spraying the primer onto the chassis, but the can ran out half way. I'll pick up another one tomorrow when I go out for our weekly shop. Back on the boiler, the sludge drain and damper door handle was added to the front of the firebox. The handwheels were knocked up as before. The thicker copper pipe is the rear section of the steam heating pipe. The pin locates in the top of the styrene rod mentioned earlier.


From this side you can see the full length of the rear section of the steam heat pipe. The front damper operating handle is a simple representation only and I won't be adding any linkage to door, as it won't be visible.


In this wider view, the footsteps added to the left side of the firebox can be seen.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[simond]

The handwheels elicited a “wow!” Very impressive, Peter,

Atb
Simon

 

[P A D]

Thanks Simon.

The chassis now has a coat of Halfords plastic primer (or has it rusted overnight?). In this view the steam heat pipe running through the chassis from the front connection can be seen.


It looks like a restoration job straight out of the paint shop in Dampflokwerk Meiningen!


Here's that water valve again peeping out from behind the steps.


Here you can see the end of the mid section of the steam heating pipe from the front connection.


And another view of the brake rigging safety brackets. They should look OK when the wheels are on, despite being made from rod not strip. I put the two main air tanks on just to prime the added pipes, but will remove them when I spray on the RAL3000 flame red.


On the boiler I cut some slots to locate the large footsteps either side of the front sand dome. I haven't glued them yet as I will want them out of the way when I add the sandpipes


And t'other side.


On the tanks I have added the filler lid, hinges, handle, operating lever to the cab (yes, the lids can be opened from the footplate on the real thing) and the footsteps at the front. On the bottom of right hand tank, support brackets for the pipework will be fitted later and on the left one, supports and conduits for the electric lighting.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[Jinty 52]

Hi Peter,
I'd forgotten that you were going to put this build on Western Thunder. I only remembered after speaking to you yesterday. I can see that you have been busy these past few weeks and forgive you for forgetting my birthday!
You are really going to town on this kit - a superb build, but having seen you at work on "O " Gauge locos at my place I'm not surprised at the attention to detail. I'm also missing " Mick, have you got any...…."
I see from your earlier posts that the civil engineering aspect of the build will be passed my way. I'll do my best!

Mick

 

[P A D]

Hi Mick,
Many thanks. Sorry about missing your birthday, but you know me, I don't know when my own is without asking you. I'll get you a pressie when lockdown permits.

It's a real pain not being able to pinch bits and pieces from you. I'll be glad when I can use my soldering station again as that 25W iron I've got here is crap, even on those skimpy etch parts. It takes an age to heat up and the tip is shot. I've managed to solder one ot two parts that superglue wasn't up to, but that's all.

Did you see the RP Toolz nut punch I purchased? It's a really nice bit of kit which I'm sure you'll find some uses for it as well when things get back to normal

As to the track, that's layout work and not my department, so I hope you're up to it.

Keep safe, speak soon.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[simond]

Peter

if the tip's shot on your iron, you can file off all the crud until you have bright copper, and then tin that with multicore as it heats up, it'll work much better (but will disappear more quickly than if it were coated). 25W should be capable of most model-size stuff

sorry if granny/eggs

hope it helps

Simon

 

[P A D]

Hi Simon,
No worries about grannies and eggs. Yes, I understand that 25W should be sufficient for most thing and these flimsy etchings in particular. The main issue is the slow heat up time and the shot tip. I can live with slow heating up, but I've tried cleaning and retinning the tip to no avail. Thanks for the suggestion to get it working, which I will try as it can't be any worse.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

When it came to painting the chassis, my original intention was to use Tamiya acrylic paint. I've seen a number of builds where the builders have used X7 Red, but having checked this out against RAL 3000 Flame Red (specified by DB and DR), I found it to be quite a way off shade, being too blue. I decided that I could match the colour by adding X8 Lemon Yellow. However, as mentioned earlier, I sourced a can of CRC RAL 3000 from RS Online and after checking it out by test spraying one of the wheels, I decanted the remainder of the paint to apply by airbrush. It contains nasty solvents, but I managed to spray outside between lulls in the recent windy weather. I found it didn't cover very well, and after spraying the chassis, pony trucks and driving wheels, I didn't have enough paint left to recoat. I therefore decided to give the Tamiya paint a go after mixing 2 bottles of X7 Red with 1 bottle of X8 Lemon Yellow. It could perhaps do with a little bit of black to flatten it down, but I decided that it was close enough. First I gave all the parts a brush coat of the mix yesterday, then today I oversprayed to level things up. Dilution was 2 parts paint to 1 part Tamiya thinners, sprayed at 30 psi. It contains water miscible solvents and is much safer than the organic solvent containing CRC paint, although you still need to use it in a well ventilated area. The main thing though, was that it covered better than the CRC paint.

I thought I'd put the wheels and trucks in for the photo, but the trucks are not pushed fully home yet, so any sign of wheels not on the rails is down to that. I wont fix the trucks properly until the wheel treads are painted with metalcoat.


The smokebox saddle and the front platform up to the rear edge of the buffer beam will be black.


Underneath, I didn't bother to give a brush coat and I didn't worry too much about the interior, which as can be seen above is well obscured by the wheels.


Makes a change to have a red chassis instead of black.


I think when the cylinders and valve gear are on and the wheel treads are painted steel, it will look a little less garish.


Yeah, some clumsy git left a rubber glove thumb print in that panel below the smokebox! Good job that will be hidden when the cylinder is on The tread plates will also be black


Cheers,
Peter

 

[Dave Holt]

Yes, Peter. By normal UK standards, that is rather red. Lovely build, though.
Dave.

 

[Jinty 52]

Peter,
Simond's suggestion re filing the solder bit works, but as he says, it starts to disappear . If you like we can meet up at Morrisons the next time I do a shop for Steven and I can hand your super duper soldering station over. I'll wear full PPE before picking it up and when handing it over, in accordance with Government guidelines!
Dave Holt's comments sums the build up. You are doing an excellent job. If you can make the wheels go around we could put in a small motor .....maybe not, you'd want me to build you a diorama or something!
Incidentally, you may remember that a few years ago you passed on to me some 4mm items that your friend in the West Country gave you when you were down there on business. As you know, I've been struggling to find a small motor/gearbox to fit the Sentinel "lunchbox" I built now that Mashima motors are no longer available. Well, guess what? Amongst the items I sorted and salted away are 4 Sagami motors of the 1620/1630 variety. It looks like a 40:1 gearbox available from Dave Hammersley at Roxey Mouldings for Mashima "1600 series" motors may well fit the bill. I'll be giving him a ring. If I'm really lucky those gearboxes will also fit Anchoridge DS10 motors purchased in my 4mm days. They have 1.5 mm shafts, but I have sleeves to increase the shaft diameter to 2.00 mm. If I'm right, that means I have motors for the Sentinel, the Hudswell Clarke (as yet unbuilt) and a couple of the re-introduced Agenoria range I have my eyes on!
That nut punch looks a useful bit of kit that I'll be able to make use of.

Mick

 

[P A D]

Hi Mick,
Many thanks (and to Dave as well).

Good to hear something turned up to motorise that "lunchbox", nay "matchbox" of a Sentinel you've built. I don't remember the motors, but do recall there was a Ks flat packed set of castings for the GWR mogul. Do you still have them? Put up some pics of the Sentinel on here, or any other stuff you've finished, so I can see if you're keeping your standards up while I've not been there!

I tried Simon's suggestion and it worked. Many thanks Simon.

Thanks for the offer to bring the Hakko, but I don't need it. Most of the etchings are overlays or joints where I can super glue. If it turns out I do need it, I'll give you a shout.

Yes, the "nut job" is a nice bit of kit and I'm sure the smaller ones will come in handy for 7mm scale as well. If you're a good lad and continue to let me steal your from your supplies box when I get back, I'll let you borrow it.

Stay safe.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Well, as mentioned above, Simon's suggestion to renovate the soldering iron tip worked a treat, which was good news as it was needed for some parts that superglue wasn't up to. First the locker inside the cab on the left hand side. I've now masked up the look outs inside and out for spraying.

And then the shovel plate on the rear cab bulkhead. Various overlays have also been added along with the hand brake, which is that gizmo below the water level gauge. Again, glazing has to be added at this stage and will be masked up inside and out for spraying.


The coal bunker has now been assemble and will be painted as a sub assembly before fitting to the rear of the footplate.


Here's a view from the rear. The ladders, grab rails, junction boxes and lighting conduits are still to be added. One of the photo etch sets I have included an etching for the large box ag the rear, but other than adding the top overlay and hinges, I thought it simpler and just as effective to use the kit parts. I am being selective with the after market parts and only adding the ones that either improve on the kit parts, or provides parts or details missing from the kit. I also have etchings for ghd underhung tool boxes, but again I was happy with the plastic parts supplied in the kit.

Today, I made a start on adding the various control rods to the valves on the boiler.


I had to plug some of the existing holes in the cab front and reposition them to suit the resin castings. Here you can see the rod to the valve on the right, along with the rod to the safety valve on this side. I've still to add the linkage up to the link on the valve.


Same story on the left hand side, safety valve rod and one of the steam valve rods added. There's also a couple more pipes to be fitted to the manifold, as well as three control rods.


Here are some views with the rear cab/bunker in place. The cab front plate is now glued in place.


It coming on.


T'other side. I see the drain pipe from the compressor is out of place.


I had bother getting the boiler to sit down properly and I assume it was the compressor drain pipe causing the problem. I'll be sure to align it next time.






Cheers,
Peter

 

[Jinty 52]

It looks stunning Peter.
Here are a couple of pics of the Sentinel. You could fit it in the cab of your monster!
I hope I've got this right.

 

[P A D]

Very nice Mick. I look forward to seeing it run.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

After that little distraction, back to something bigger. All the control rods from the cab to the boiler fittings have now been added. I wonder what the purpose is of the control rods to the safety valves. Does anybody know?


And the other side. I've also added one of the two missing pipes from steam manifold. There's another one to go under that big flange on this side and then down the firebox side next to the cab.


Another view of the left hand side.


And the whole shebang from above. I had just enough brass rod left to complete this area.


Moving back to the bunker, the the junction boxes, ladders and central platform have been added.


Despite using superglue, the platform made up into a quite sturdy structure. The Eduard set provides replacement ladders which fold up quite nicely. However, I thought they were too fragile and likely to be damaged, so I went with the plastic ones from the kit which look OK. The turn in at the top on the one on this side was miss-moulded, so I had go repair it with plasticard.


This image gives a clearer view of the platform grill, which I believe was to allow coal dust to fall through and not build up. During WW2, for new builds (Übergangskriegslokomotiven) the grill was replaced with wood planks to save on critical materials. I don't know if existing locos had them replaced, but either way, I wanted to fit it. I'm going to use the kit plastic grab rails for this area as I don't think they will be vulnerable to damage. The conduits linking the junction boxes will be added from copper wire.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

This image gives a clearer view of the platform grill, which I believe was to allow coal dust to fall through and not build up.

It would also stop water being trapped and freezing in winter

I wonder what the purpose is of the control rods to the safety valves. Does anybody know?

Probably to lift or close them manually if they got stuck and/or to provide greater control over maintaining the boiler pressure.
.

 

[Jinty 52]

My God Peter, the detail on this thing, and your workmanship amazes me!
From reading your earlier posts, it appears that you don't know where to put it when it's finished. Well, I can find a place for it on my mantlepiece (and tell friends I built it)!
I knew I'd got something wrong when I posted pictures of the Sentinel as they displayed a small image. Fortunately, "those above" corrected it for me - many thanks, and also to those who liked my efforts. Hopefully, should I post any more pictures in the future I will be able get it right and use full image.
I hope you will have got this 1/35 scale thing out of your system for a while, once this is completed and get back to the path of true righteousness. I noticed the Stanier 2-6-0 and another kit stored away under your workbench when doing a little tidy up (hint)! I also miss the "mild" expletives when things are not going quite right!
Incidentally, I've also finished the LMS Inspection Saloon (Sidelines) and the Derby Lightweight 2 Car set (Easy-Build). I only need the bodyworks painted BR Maroon and Green respectively. The chassis etc are painted up and complete and look really good, but the upper bodywork merit the attention of the spray gun . We have BR Green, but hopefully you can obtain a small amount of Maroon from your source.
Oh by the way, The Key's Kit s a complete kit of a GWR 2-6-0 Mogul, complete with their crappy motor. You built one for me many years ago. It has a Portescap RG4 Motor in it (some may say what a waste) and it still runs well.

Mick

 

[P A D]

Morning Mick,
Yes it will look good on your mantelpiece. I haven't checked yet, but I'm hoping it will fit in that Trumpeter display case you bought me for Christmas some years back.

I don't know why they have the thumbnail option when it's just as easy to add a full image, as it's a real pain in the butt when some numpty posts thumbnails.

As to posting your stuff, I keep telling you to start a thread as your stuff is up there with the best! In the meantime feel free to stick some pictures in here as it would be good to sed how the inspection saloon and 2 car set have turned out. The Halfords red oxide plastic primer goes on very smooth and level and might be a better base for maroon than grey. I'm going to use it for the black areas as well as you will have seen by the colour of the cylinders.

Mention of Key's motors and wheels is a blast from the past, or was it the dark ages. I'd forgotten you've still got all the 4mm stuff I built for you. I was up in the loft recently and I spotted some of my 4mm locos, including a Key's Princess and streamlined P2. Gone are the days.

Finally, I resent the suggestion that I use mild expletives! Like you, when things go wrong, I use the appropriate full blown, very dark blue expletives, that are required in such circumstances. And do this and this hence the dints in the walls.

It will be good to get back to the bench and do some propper building in brass and nickel silver. I'm getting by with what I've got here, but it not the same without all the tools that have been acquired over the years, especially the vertical drill and lathe.

Apologies to everyone else for all this off topic blathering, but hey, it's my thread. In any case, there's no pictures, and I know you lot don't read the text!

Cheers,
Peter