Here's the same thing on 80002. It's hard to see where the pipe in Heather's ends up, but on number 2 it hangs over the piston rod. The thing is, where's that pipe looping over the slide bar coming from and going to? Or is that the pipe that ends over the piston rod? Sod it, I'm leaving mine as it is.
Note also the LMS relief valve at the back of the cylinder. The one on the front is the standard (does that mean anything) BR type, so clearly the preservationists had to use what parts they had.
This is the the grease lubricating point on the frame that I mentioned in my last post.
There's one on the other side as well and here's confirmation that they were on in BR days. This is a cropped image taken from the RCTS volume on the class. I'll double check that there isn't a casting for it in the box, before I go to the trouble of making one.
Here's an image of the right hand slide bar lubricator pipe. It clearly loops over the slide bar and disappears. Possibly it's looping back up again but that could be a wheel spoke giving that impression.
Another detail I notice is the blow off cock lever has a double handle, whereas I've only put a forward facing one on my model. I've seen this on other preserved locos so I'm not sure why i did ut tge way I did. Again, I need to check if this is how it was in BR days but it will be easy to replace the existing handle with one that extends both sides.
Just for fun I took some more photos comparing the model to the one I built from the DJB kit around 2002.
The DJB model looks pretty good from these angles.
Apart from minor detail differences the main discrepancies are:-
The curve of the cab sides to the roof on the DJB is too high, giving the impression the windows are lower.
The bunker rear looks comparable, the sided of the DJB don't taper as they should.
The running plate on the DJB is lower and consequently the drop plate is shorter.
Not only is the running plate lower on the DJB, it also turns in further forward and the side tanks are slightly longer.
The valve gear on the DJB is a good as many offered in kits and is more than acceptable. However, the MOK gear is in a class of its own. It's not that clear in this photo, but the transition from the perimeter of the dome to the top is a bit angular. However, despite these faults DJB would hold up pretty well on its own running on any layout, as long as you kept it away from the MOK.
Cheers,
Peter