jc2001
Western Thunderer
I've been a frequent visitor to WT but a very poor contributor as I have for a very long time been focussing on my narrow gauge which has been largely reported through my blog http://pentewan.blogspot.co.uk/ and the O14 group. Now it's one and only exhibition is over I have decided for a compete change to finally build my JLRT 45/55xx which my wife gave me as a present 2 (perhaps 3) years ago. This is my first proper standard gauge loco and I would like to share my experiences and seek advice here if I may.
I have been assessing what I have and planning my first steps. I had acquired at the time the JLRT super detailing kit, an ABC gears motor/gearbox, some milled coupling rods (of now unknown provenance), some Slaters insulated hornblocks, a set of Slaters wheels which have been re profiled to S7 and number and shed plates - it will be no. 5519 as it appeared in the late 1950s.
I definitely want some form of proper, i.e. up/down, springing and would dearly like to try split axle pickup. With this in mind I immediately came up against some issues that need to be resolved as follows:
Coupling rods and crankpins
When I looked at the milled coupling rods they seemed very poorly finished (file marks) and are distinctly fish bellied - unfortunately I don't have photos of the motion of 5519 so don't know if this is correct or not. The etched ones seemed much better looking so I resolved to make these up as best I can before choosing one or the other. Along the way I managed to lose one of the Slaters crankpin bushes and then found (via the web and WT) that many suggest these are far too small and should either be tapped 10Ba or go the whole hog and get Derek Mundy ones. I would welcome some advice on both the rods and crankpins.
Hornblocks and Springing
I had bought the Slaters insulated hornblocks as I wanted to try split axle pickup. I am contemplating using horizontal piano/guitar wire springing bearing directly on the bushes (perhaps as a Continuos Spring Beam) with fulcrum points mounted on double sided PCB. I now understand Slaters do a much more detailed version which look similar to the ones in the super detailed kit which obviously I can't use as they are rigid. Again I would welcome any advice - and please excuse my ignorance, but do the detailed flange/bolts go on the inside or outside of the chassis?
The ABC motor/gearbox has what I assume are PTFE bearings. I can't recall if I tried at the time, but I have found the inner holes have shrunk so it is almost impossible to insert the axle - let alone turn freely. Should this be expected? Is it a simple matter to ream them out or should I contact ABC assuming they are still in business?
I'm sorry for so many questions.
John
I have been assessing what I have and planning my first steps. I had acquired at the time the JLRT super detailing kit, an ABC gears motor/gearbox, some milled coupling rods (of now unknown provenance), some Slaters insulated hornblocks, a set of Slaters wheels which have been re profiled to S7 and number and shed plates - it will be no. 5519 as it appeared in the late 1950s.
I definitely want some form of proper, i.e. up/down, springing and would dearly like to try split axle pickup. With this in mind I immediately came up against some issues that need to be resolved as follows:
Coupling rods and crankpins
When I looked at the milled coupling rods they seemed very poorly finished (file marks) and are distinctly fish bellied - unfortunately I don't have photos of the motion of 5519 so don't know if this is correct or not. The etched ones seemed much better looking so I resolved to make these up as best I can before choosing one or the other. Along the way I managed to lose one of the Slaters crankpin bushes and then found (via the web and WT) that many suggest these are far too small and should either be tapped 10Ba or go the whole hog and get Derek Mundy ones. I would welcome some advice on both the rods and crankpins.
Hornblocks and Springing
I had bought the Slaters insulated hornblocks as I wanted to try split axle pickup. I am contemplating using horizontal piano/guitar wire springing bearing directly on the bushes (perhaps as a Continuos Spring Beam) with fulcrum points mounted on double sided PCB. I now understand Slaters do a much more detailed version which look similar to the ones in the super detailed kit which obviously I can't use as they are rigid. Again I would welcome any advice - and please excuse my ignorance, but do the detailed flange/bolts go on the inside or outside of the chassis?
The ABC motor/gearbox has what I assume are PTFE bearings. I can't recall if I tried at the time, but I have found the inner holes have shrunk so it is almost impossible to insert the axle - let alone turn freely. Should this be expected? Is it a simple matter to ream them out or should I contact ABC assuming they are still in business?
I'm sorry for so many questions.
John