jonte
Western Thunderer
Finding it hard to believe that this fine example of craftsmanship is your first attempt, Jan. Astounding stuff.
Jonte
4mm Jan's 4mm Workbench
- Thread starter Lyndhurstman
- Start date
Finding it hard to believe that this fine example of craftsmanship is your first attempt, Jan. Astounding stuff.
Jonte
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Thank you @jonte
All my output up to know has been one of the Holy Trinity of Kit Building: Plastic, Whitemetal, or Brass (or an amalgam thereof). I’ve cut little bits and pieces when needed, but this is a first hack through the winter ice and dive in for me. It’s not perfect (I’m pretty sure it’s not craftsmanship, either…) but it serves.
Thanks again,
Jan
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Cab Control
The rear cab sheet was a bit simpler than the front. Barring the placing of the lamp irons (Extreme Etchings) and handrail knobs (Alan Gibson), the only other item of note was the fake pimple accomodation for the brake handle. This was undertaken by Ernie Piphany, our King Of Cricket, using the middle stump of a 13A plug.
For reasons best known to the designers, the lamp iron between the window cutouts was placed off centre. Also, research has identified that prior to her becoming Number 33, 68129 lost her rear spectacles (probably fell off when she bumped too hard on some of the less that wonderful track down on Pepper Wharf in Canning Town). She had her vision back in time for her disposal, but we're glossing over that part of her history, as we have a nice image of her shunting Stratford Old Works with what looks like blackout curtains hanging loosely in placethrough the apertures..
Once we had back and front, and something to prop it up with, the roof was tackled.
Just a simple curve, with cut outs for above-average height drivers (the original B74 was taller, here, and this gave these locos a look of haugthtiness - a far cry from the 'bruiser boy' look came to carry).
The rear cab was made demountable, and thus there was no excuse to charge up the orchestra and go overboard on the fittings. The firehole ring and door:
The Reversing Lever (8 bits of brass):
The Gauge Frame:
The regulator, steam brake, and injector steam valves...
..the warming tray/damper...
...and the coal bunker...
All of which, goes to give an impression of permanence...
...as if this wasn't enough, we then decided to attempt the fitting of the coal bars over the firemans-side window. So 11 0.3 mm holes were drilled... by hand...
.. cab surround was made from 22 Gauge soft half-round brass wire. And holes drilled in it to take the handrails.
And that is - more or less.. where we are now. We have an old Jameson brass dish for the smokebox door, and we've sourced a GER dome from Precision Paints. The chimney is the stumbling block.. that and the chassis...
Cheers
Jan
The rear cab sheet was a bit simpler than the front. Barring the placing of the lamp irons (Extreme Etchings) and handrail knobs (Alan Gibson), the only other item of note was the fake pimple accomodation for the brake handle. This was undertaken by Ernie Piphany, our King Of Cricket, using the middle stump of a 13A plug.
For reasons best known to the designers, the lamp iron between the window cutouts was placed off centre. Also, research has identified that prior to her becoming Number 33, 68129 lost her rear spectacles (probably fell off when she bumped too hard on some of the less that wonderful track down on Pepper Wharf in Canning Town). She had her vision back in time for her disposal, but we're glossing over that part of her history, as we have a nice image of her shunting Stratford Old Works with what looks like blackout curtains hanging loosely in placethrough the apertures..
Once we had back and front, and something to prop it up with, the roof was tackled.
Just a simple curve, with cut outs for above-average height drivers (the original B74 was taller, here, and this gave these locos a look of haugthtiness - a far cry from the 'bruiser boy' look came to carry).
The rear cab was made demountable, and thus there was no excuse to charge up the orchestra and go overboard on the fittings. The firehole ring and door:
The Reversing Lever (8 bits of brass):
The Gauge Frame:
The regulator, steam brake, and injector steam valves...
..the warming tray/damper...
...and the coal bunker...
All of which, goes to give an impression of permanence...
...as if this wasn't enough, we then decided to attempt the fitting of the coal bars over the firemans-side window. So 11 0.3 mm holes were drilled... by hand...
.. cab surround was made from 22 Gauge soft half-round brass wire. And holes drilled in it to take the handrails.
And that is - more or less.. where we are now. We have an old Jameson brass dish for the smokebox door, and we've sourced a GER dome from Precision Paints. The chimney is the stumbling block.. that and the chassis...
Cheers
Jan
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Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Boxing Day
One last update; the arrangement of sandboxes and the lone toolbox nestle (other chocolate purveyors are available) close to the smokebox.
Bits from the Spares Dept. Courtesy of a long-departed (long, long, long…) NuCast Y5. The position of the toolbox meant that the grab handle (that would mirror the one on the Driver’s side) has to be placed on the front of the toolbox. Nothing much in the way of novel methodologies, but the toolbox is drilled and pinned into the footplate. Everything else is glued…
This view also shows the difference between the two side tanks.
Cheers
Jan
One last update; the arrangement of sandboxes and the lone toolbox nestle (other chocolate purveyors are available) close to the smokebox.
Bits from the Spares Dept. Courtesy of a long-departed (long, long, long…) NuCast Y5. The position of the toolbox meant that the grab handle (that would mirror the one on the Driver’s side) has to be placed on the front of the toolbox. Nothing much in the way of novel methodologies, but the toolbox is drilled and pinned into the footplate. Everything else is glued…
This view also shows the difference between the two side tanks.
Cheers
Jan
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Return To The Fold
When one PALBRICK is not enough.. although this is a radical (and significantly lighter!) beast.
A few hours post-work have resulted in this neat little tray of layers. This will be a Diagram 1/024 (PALBRICK B). It’s a little kit from Ian MacDonald @Macgeordie. Very detailed instructions, and a well-thought out build so far. I like nickel silver. It’s clean, bright, and easy to solder.
This assembly is a simple couple of trays - one for the solebar and w-irons, one for the bufferbeam. Well located with tab and slot, and easy to solder. I did have to file a bit off the ends of the solebar to get it to sit tight in the bufferbeam tray, and the sides have to be perfectly vertical in order for the slots to align with the tabs, but that’s no bad thing. I was going to use my RSU on this build, but stuck with my 25W Weller instead. If I was building another one, I’d fold the etch bar between the W irons over AFTER I’d folded up the solebar sides. A Hold & Fold is very useful, here.
The vacuum cylinder support is six discs stacked on top of each other. Saves on castings, I suppose… and ensures that nothing is wasted on the fret.
Cheers
Jan
When one PALBRICK is not enough.. although this is a radical (and significantly lighter!) beast.
A few hours post-work have resulted in this neat little tray of layers. This will be a Diagram 1/024 (PALBRICK B). It’s a little kit from Ian MacDonald @Macgeordie. Very detailed instructions, and a well-thought out build so far. I like nickel silver. It’s clean, bright, and easy to solder.
This assembly is a simple couple of trays - one for the solebar and w-irons, one for the bufferbeam. Well located with tab and slot, and easy to solder. I did have to file a bit off the ends of the solebar to get it to sit tight in the bufferbeam tray, and the sides have to be perfectly vertical in order for the slots to align with the tabs, but that’s no bad thing. I was going to use my RSU on this build, but stuck with my 25W Weller instead. If I was building another one, I’d fold the etch bar between the W irons over AFTER I’d folded up the solebar sides. A Hold & Fold is very useful, here.
The vacuum cylinder support is six discs stacked on top of each other. Saves on castings, I suppose… and ensures that nothing is wasted on the fret.
Cheers
Jan
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AJC
Western Thunderer
That does look very good indeed - and much less effort than my stalled scratchbuilds - I'm in negotiation with a mate to try and get some side panels etched because I'm not confident that I can make them durable in plastic! I must admit that I wouldn't have considered the etch sandwich: I'd have lifted some Parkside spares (and if you want a couple, ask and they shall be in the post). Spot of epoxy and a replacement piston rod and job done.
Adam
Adam
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
AJC
Western Thunderer
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
¡Overlay Overlay! ¡Arriba Arriba!
Hiding from the sun today. Not a fan, it has to be said. And as I get older, the weekend becomes more and more a post-work recovery slot.
Anyway, a bit more work on the PALBRICK. The floor has been added, and the solebar channels have been bent up and soldered on. I was worried about the holes for the strengthening ribs not being aligned (being as they are present in three layers), but the kit designer had thought of that.
The overlays were the trickiest bit; they are handed (one side has the representation of the rivets for the vacuum cylinder bracket), and they’re beautifully half-etch, so sweating them flat against the solebar was a tricky moment. Pre-tinning both surfaces is what I’ve come to do as default. Then it’s a simple matter of running the clean tip of the iron along, and listening for the sizzle. You can see I’ve had some solder leakage. But it looks worse then it is, and I can live with that.
Cheers
Jan
Hiding from the sun today. Not a fan, it has to be said. And as I get older, the weekend becomes more and more a post-work recovery slot.
Anyway, a bit more work on the PALBRICK. The floor has been added, and the solebar channels have been bent up and soldered on. I was worried about the holes for the strengthening ribs not being aligned (being as they are present in three layers), but the kit designer had thought of that.
The overlays were the trickiest bit; they are handed (one side has the representation of the rivets for the vacuum cylinder bracket), and they’re beautifully half-etch, so sweating them flat against the solebar was a tricky moment. Pre-tinning both surfaces is what I’ve come to do as default. Then it’s a simple matter of running the clean tip of the iron along, and listening for the sizzle. You can see I’ve had some solder leakage. But it looks worse then it is, and I can live with that.
Cheers
Jan
jonte
Western Thunderer
Looks very neat, Jan. Nickel silver does indeed sound a user-friendly medium (noted).
Loving the title
Jonte
iak63
Western Thunderer
Looks very neat, Jan. Nickel silver does indeed sound a user-friendly medium (noted).
Loving the title
Jonte
Indeed Nickel Silver is easier to solder.
Mind, if you are allergic to Nickel...
Gloves are a necessity at times.
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Looks very neat, Jan. Nickel silver does indeed sound a user-friendly medium (noted).
Loving the title
Jonte
Indeed Nickel Silver is easier to solder.
Mind, if you are allergic to Nickel...
Gloves are a necessity at times.
Hello Chaps,
Thanks for your comments.
@jonte The neatness is ENTIRELY due to the excellence of the manufacturer. And possibly the fact that solder is a very similar colour to Nickel Silver
@AJC Ah.. I must get some more. I messed up a sheets-worth lettering the Keyser kit erlier in the thread; very fiddly with the wording on the end supports.. I think 4 is enough for anyone! I saw a 3D printed version on EBay a while back, but they've gone again...
@iak63 Crumbs. I'm Mr Rusty when it comes to anything with steel in it. I didn't realise there was a Nickel intolerance, too. I've not had an issue, so far. I offer my sympathies.
I've done a bit more...
The floor supports (three different types) have been added. A simple push into those wonderful afore-mentioned slots. No issues encountered. Fiddly, but further evidence of a well thought out kit.
Cheers
Jan
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
A Quick Quartet
The PALBRICK progresses. The bufferbeam overlays have been fitted - held in place by cocktail sticks as per instructions, and the waisted bearings have been soldered in. The brake cylinder has been drilled centrally to a accommodate the shaft, and glued, and one side panel had been bent up and over and soldered. And checked that it fits
The etches are clean and crisp, the instructions well thought out and copious, and everything still fits together very well. Compared to the old Keyser kit, there’s a LOT of work in this tiny platform. But a lot of fun, too. It’s a very guilty pleasure.
Cheers
Jan
The PALBRICK progresses. The bufferbeam overlays have been fitted - held in place by cocktail sticks as per instructions, and the waisted bearings have been soldered in. The brake cylinder has been drilled centrally to a accommodate the shaft, and glued, and one side panel had been bent up and over and soldered. And checked that it fits
The etches are clean and crisp, the instructions well thought out and copious, and everything still fits together very well. Compared to the old Keyser kit, there’s a LOT of work in this tiny platform. But a lot of fun, too. It’s a very guilty pleasure.
Cheers
Jan
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Hi @LarryG
Yes. Me too. They’re interesting little boxes, and evolved in several directions (including the SHELLCASE modified ones). You’d think there would be a case for RTR’ing them - I’m batch-building intolerant after the VANWIDE saga, so I’d be interested in a few, too.
Cheers
Jan
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Sideshow Bob
The distinctive boards of the PALBRICK are soldered to the floor. A bit tricksy; the tabs at either end are sub-1mm in width, so the holes are very small to get the solder to wick through, and grab the tab. I’ve gone with a small dab of 63/37 rosin core (0.4 mm dia) solder on the angle joint between central stanchion and the tab on the solebar - the alloy will give an improved mechanical joint, I think. The central overlays will be glued in before painting - a cheat, perhaps, but the instructions suggest it, so that spoke to me as a good option.
The overlays were held in place against the handle of the 4” square to ensure they were upright while I used the other hand to wield the 25 W Weller.
Cheers
Jan
The distinctive boards of the PALBRICK are soldered to the floor. A bit tricksy; the tabs at either end are sub-1mm in width, so the holes are very small to get the solder to wick through, and grab the tab. I’ve gone with a small dab of 63/37 rosin core (0.4 mm dia) solder on the angle joint between central stanchion and the tab on the solebar - the alloy will give an improved mechanical joint, I think. The central overlays will be glued in before painting - a cheat, perhaps, but the instructions suggest it, so that spoke to me as a good option.
The overlays were held in place against the handle of the 4” square to ensure they were upright while I used the other hand to wield the 25 W Weller.
Cheers
Jan
AdeMoore
Western Thunderer
Very interested in this Jan as in my collection of unbuilt stuff I have! 
Seems a lovely kit but I need to build some soldering skills before I attempt it!
I’ve had it ages, may sell it though yet………
Great chap too from his letter.
Picking up tips from your build here thanks for sharing.
Seems a lovely kit but I need to build some soldering skills before I attempt it!
I’ve had it ages, may sell it though yet………
Great chap too from his letter.
Picking up tips from your build here thanks for sharing.
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Very interested in this Jan as in my collection of unbuilt stuff I have!
Seems a lovely kit but I need to build some soldering skills before I attempt it!
I’ve had it ages, may sell it though yet………
Great chap too from his letter.
Picking up tips from your build here thanks for sharing.
That’s the doozie, @AdeMoore
Yes. I hope others can see from your pictures what a well thought out kit it is. My only quibble is that you need a PC to read the disc. And the photos aren’t merged with the instructions, so I have to keep flicking back and forth (as I spend all day on a PC for work, I was loathe to spend more time with it on, I printed off the instructions, and loaded the pictures onto my phone, accessing them only when I needed corroboration of something.).
If I didn’t have so many unbuilt kits myself, I’d make you an offer As to soldering; If I can do this, I’m more than sure you can.
Cheers
Jan