G scale class 25

rjr

Western Thunderer
thanks for the feedback, all comments welcome.

the windows, I assume that as no one felt the outer windscreens were to narrow before I fitted the white frames, that the frames had made some difference. they were fitted from the back and looking at them they did reduce the overall window size too much. So I have thinned the border they create considerablly and I think they

a) look better and
b) when checked dimensionally are considerably closer to what they should be.

SDC16929.jpg


SDC16928.jpg


Making any further adjustments would be harder and possibly in the is it worth it catagory.

No rivet strip was used, all the window and grill frames were cut from a flat sheet of 10thou, the outer shape cut first the then inner shape cut out leaving a thin single piece frame. Then this was turned over and placed on a cutting mat, the rivets formed by pressing a pointed implement in from the back creating a blip on the front. all the the other rivet strips were formed the same way, but its easier when its a straight strip.

Jordan, yes you have a LOT to answer for ! :D


As can be seen its all primer grey again now and nearing paint shop condition.

SDC16930.jpg


SDC16931.jpg


Any one point me in the direction of a good inside cab picture ? So I can knock something together.

John
 

Simon

Flying Squad
rjr said:
thanks for the feedback, all comments welcome.

the windows, I assume that as no one felt the outer windscreens were to narrow before I fitted the white frames, that the frames had made some difference. they were fitted from the back and looking at them they did reduce the overall window size too much. So I have thinned the border they create considerablly and I think they

a) look better and
b) when checked dimensionally are considerably closer to what they should be.

SDC16929.jpg

SDC16928.jpg

Making any further adjustments would be harder and possibly in the is it worth it catagory.

No rivet strip was used, all the window and grill frames were cut from a flat sheet of 10thou, the outer shape cut first the then inner shape cut out leaving a thin single piece frame. Then this was turned over and placed on a cutting mat, the rivets formed by pressing a pointed implement in from the back creating a blip on the front. all the the other rivet strips were formed the same way, but its easier when its a straight strip.

Jordan, yes you have a LOT to answer for ! :D


As can be seen its all primer grey again now and nearing paint shop condition.

SDC16930.jpg

SDC16931.jpg

Any one point me in the direction of a good inside cab picture ? So I can knock something together.

John

That's just awesome :thumbs: :thumbs:

Well done Jordan :lol:
 

marsa69

Western Thunderer
Totally unbelieveable and unrealistic those last photos :shock:

Laptops weren't around in the days of the 25 :laugh: (This is where you all say its a preserved scene :shit: )

Top drawer mate :thumbs:
 

rjr

Western Thunderer
Thanks for all the comments, been on a roll this afternoon, plus the sun was out  :D

Painted in the sun

SDC16966.jpg


SDC16966.jpg


SDC16951.jpg


back in the shed for some handrails and weathering, sorry if you like clean diesels, I like mine Used :)

SDC16991.jpg


SDC16986.jpg


back in the sun for some better pictures

SDC16983.jpg


SDC16970.jpg


SDC16968.jpg


I guess cab and buffer beam details are next, then when the paint it a bit tougher glazing and other small details.


John
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Hi John, it may be a daft question but what masking tape to you use to get such great results - I always seem to get some paint bleeding under anything I mask.

I can only echo everyone else and say what a fabulous job in such a short space of time. :thumbs: :thumbs:
 

rjr

Western Thunderer
Rob Pulham said:
Hi John, it may be a daft question but what masking tape to you use to get such great results - I always seem to get some paint bleeding under anything I mask.

Standard 2" masking tape from B&Q I just make sure its pressed down at the edges.

I also cheated slightly in 2 ways.
A careful look at the yellow to blue line shows I put a very thin plastic strip at the paint joint line before painting, its not that noticable, non prototypical, but makes getting a crisp line much easier as you can mask into the corner.
Also when I bought the 2 aerosols of Railmatch I bought 2 matching jars of the same to allow me to touch up any edges with a brush, in this case I didn't need to do much.

Hope this helps

John
 
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