Amanda's Workshop: Scratchbuilding Toward A Layout

WM183

Western Thunderer
Hi Jan,

Split frame collection seems to be VERY appealing at the moment, I must admit. Sadly aside from the 2mm association's shops - naturally intended for 2mm models - there's not much support from the trade for split frame models. At least it runs very well!
 

Lyndhurstman

Western Thunderer
Hi Jan,

Split frame collection seems to be VERY appealing at the moment, I must admit. Sadly aside from the 2mm association's shops - naturally intended for 2mm models - there's not much support from the trade for split frame models. At least it runs very well!
Hello Amanda
Yes… I seem to recall that Branchlines did a Perspex jig and suitable split axle components at one time, but I’m not au fait with the current state of play.

Cheers

Jan
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Hello Amanda,

I came to a similar conclusion with where to place mine. The rear set were anchored to a piece of copper clad bridging the underside of the ashpan. The front was more difficult.

In hindsight - and foresight, as I have a 57xx to do - I ought to have taken a mm or so off the bottom of the motion bracket, and one way or another (soldered in, or screwed to an L-shaped bracket mounted to the bottom of the motion bracket) fitted a bit of copper clad across there. That’s what I did for Thomas (basically the same thing, chassis-wise) and the result was much less fiddly and took far less adjustment.

Adam
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
Hi Adam,
I wound up mounting a piece of copperclad inside the ashpan for the center pickups, using the top of the rear frame for the rear ones, and got very creative for the front ones, gluing the copperclad to the rear of one of the vertical frame spacers as shown in the photos. Jinty runs and runs VERY well, definitely a compliment to High Level's kit quality and not my "skill" as a builder. Not a bit of fettling of rods required; the kit and the GW wheel press make it fairly Amanda-proof!

Once I get the proper crankpin bushes, the chassis is officially done. I can now start on the detailing of the body with the Brassmasters superdetail etch.

Jinty Pickups 1.jpgJinty Pickups 2.jpg
 

Phil O

Western Thunderer
The EMGS do split axles, the downside is you have to da member or get them at a society show. Another problem is that they need shortening for 00.
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
The EMGS do split axles, the downside is you have to da member or get them at a society show. Another problem is that they need shortening for 00.
I'm working in P4... do they use a 2 axle halves + muff system like the 2mm ones use?
 

Phil O

Western Thunderer
Amanda, I am going over the club room after lunch, as I have some priming to do, I will take a photo of one, if I can remember where I put them and also measure the length, they may just stretch to P4, because the wheels are thinner.
 

Phil O

Western Thunderer
Sorry I couldn't lay my hands on them, I found a packet of unmade Branchlines split axles kits. I will try again during the week, when I'm not so pressed for time.
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
Hi Phil,

No worries and no hurries. The jinty's built and the next 4mm engine is still a dream. Thanks much!
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
The Jinty is all but done!

I have added the Brassmasters etched coal rails and steps, and painted everything that will be painted. All I need to do is fit the new crankpin bushes whenever they arrive, pop the sandboxes off the Bachmann chassis and glue them on here, add couplings and coal to the bunker, then the conversion is all complete. Figures and weathering may yet be added, of course, but I may sell this one - it runs so well on the Mitsumi 1219 motor! I bought a further 10 of these motors and plan to make extensive use of them. It runs as smoothly as silk. I was terrified due to stories I've heard of P4, but the high quality kit made it painless. Now with that 7mm 1366 and this engine beneath my belt I am WAY more confident about scratchbuilding an entire chassis or engine!Jinty Side.jpgJinty Belly.jpgJinty Bunker.jpg
 

Bevis

New Member
Good morning,
Just to let you know I discussed this with Mr Branchlines at Expo EM South recently and he is out of the split axles and, unless there's a demand for them, doesn't intend to get a batch made.
I said I'd want some!
Regards,
Bevis
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
Hi Bevis,
I'd be down for a lot of them as well, but I understand there's a low demand. I am growing more interested in battery power, I must admit. The current battery technology is amazing, and a single charge of a 1000 mAh battery would run an engine like this for many hours.
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
That's a lovely model you've built there, Amanda.
Thank you!

However the lion's share of the credit goes to High Level for this outstanding kit. All I did was follow the instructions that came with it and my alignment axles, and it fell into place. I've attached the sandboxes from the Bachmann body, and am going to put real coal in the bunker tonight. I like this P4 stuff, I just cannot decide if i want to choose it for my Midland project, or 2mm.

The 2mm association has the HUGE benefit of being very much a 1 stop shopping place. The P4 society shops are good, but I'd still have to order wheels, wagon bodies, etc., from other places, and every order means more VAT and customs nonsense. I cannot complain about how nice a size 4mm is though, and how lovely this little Jinty runs.

I am going to scratchbuild a Midland 0-6-0 in 2mm, and see how I can get on. If it isn't too bad - and runs halfway decently when done - I may stay that course. My 0 scale (US) models will also remain with me, but I am just not sure what to do with my British 0 gauge stuff yet. Certainly selling my trio of Panniers and my wagons, etc would get me enough to buy a new mill AND a load of 2mm bits...
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
Update time!

Jinty awaits a set of crankpin bushes being generously donated by a member here, and in the meantime I have worked on a handful of P4 wagons. In particular I have built a couple of Ratio kits (An LMS van of d1830-ish type, and a 3 plank 1927 open) and upgraded the undergubbins, with a Rumney models underframe for the 1927 and a Parkside clasp-brake underframe kit for the van, plus a load of scratchmade bits and some brass levers and lever guards. P4 wagons run SO NICELY! Wow!

I also received a beautiful etched set of plates for the 1366 tank. I now just need to get a chimney and safety valve cover, but Springside Models has thus far not answered my email inquiry. I will phone them this week.

1927.jpg1830.jpg1366 Plates.jpg
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
The dome, chimney, tank vents, and a set of fire irons for the 1366T have been ordered from Springside Models, and decals for an early BR scheme have been ordered from Fox. Now I wait.

In the meantime, I am coming to re-appreciate 4mm as a size. With the news that simple to build point kits are on the way... I am more and more debating a BR(W) urban terminus in the 1955-1960 period. I can run 5 coach suburban trains in my space, a parcels dock.... lots of prairies of various flavors and Halls and Manors and panniers puttering about...
 

WM183

Western Thunderer
Hi folks. I still exist!

Been quite busy taking my Dutch language cert tests so I can get my teaching license here (I was a math teacher in the US, a lifetime ago) and that has eaten a lot of my time and mental capacity. Dutch is a difficult language!

The chimney from Springside was listed as being for a 5400, but is clearly for a round boiler. I messaged asking if they have one that fits a flat topped one, and await a response. The decals and number plates arrived - a different number than what I ordered, but it'll work - and now the only bits I need are handrail knobs, and I'll send off for those this week.

This 1366 will be the death of me.
 
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