Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
I really do wish I'd bought that MMP one I was offered a year or two back. I've been kicking myself pretty much ever since...!
Steph
Steph
7mm: A Tale of Two 40s
- Thread starter Dikitriki
- Start date
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Looks nice but I hate saying this, but your side frames are too wide, they should not line up with the side of the buffer beam, they are inset by roughly 1.8mm You might need the extra width for wheel side play in S7 for 60" curves but I doubt you'll need it in FS for 72" curves
I'll have a look at the construction when I go round the frames.
However if you don't do that, then I beg of you, please please please at least remove the casting flash from the top of the bogie side frames.
Not casting flash Mick, it represents the underside of the body structure. When I first saw it, I thought the builder had chosen to solder it to the chassis rather than the body to allow for bogie swing. When I stripped it, I realised that DJH had designed it that way!
View attachment 25598
Keep the constructive comments coming. I may not be able to act on them, but I shall certainly consider them.
Richard
Relax - you'll have a chance to get our new one before too long [can also be read as when I get around to finishing it] - no firm date yet before I get asked by anyone. Provisional spec. on our web site.
DJP
SteadyRed
Western Thunderer
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Richard
I have to say that the JLTRT loco is the one that most looks like a 40 to me. The nose of the DJH one is wrong the angle between the nose end and the cab windows is too steep, but you will need to compare it to a photograph to tell. The bogie springs are too straight across the top, they should have a distinct curve from the weight of the body.
The MMP one is better but the resin casting for the nose is higher on one side than the other, I replaced mine with a pair of ends from JLTRT, they fit relatively easily. The MMP one also suffers (although some may enjoy it) from requiring a very high degree of skill to make a good model, I found the roof particularly difficult and looking at other peoples model they did too. I made the model and it runs well, but it is not my finest effort. I will try and photograph all 3 at the weekend.
Richard
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Really! OK I suppose that's one way of doing it LOL, either way it has to come off, really, it does
Ideally you need to trim that if you can so that the bearer beams/jacking pads come off as well, affix to the body chassis and let the bogie rotate as normal.
Actually a better way would be to cut all the red away, it's not needed, then trim the bearer beams/jacking pads off and solder them to the base of the body.
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi Mick
I'd come to the same conclusion. There is no separate body chassis, but I shall be able to get the beams/pads off and solder them to the body. It does mean I have made my mind up to strip the body, but that will give me the chance to correct a few things. I must remember this is a refurb and not a rebuild
Cheers
Richard
I'd come to the same conclusion. There is no separate body chassis, but I shall be able to get the beams/pads off and solder them to the body. It does mean I have made my mind up to strip the body, but that will give me the chance to correct a few things. I must remember this is a refurb and not a rebuild
Cheers
Richard
Everything will be pre-formed in the new kit with simplified clip in lourve panels on the roof - just to keep everyone happy.
DJP
mickoo
Western Thunderer
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Yes - those red bits have got to come off Richard, otherwise you loose that distinct top profile of the bogie. Not a problem I'm sure for a man of your talents. I'm loosing track now, how many 40s do you actually have?
I recall Brians comparison of 37 front end cab and bonnet profile. JLTRT came out top followed by Heljan with DJH trailing in last place. I suppose thats the advantage of digital scanning, which probably wasn't around when DJH mastered their 40.
Tony
I recall Brians comparison of 37 front end cab and bonnet profile. JLTRT came out top followed by Heljan with DJH trailing in last place. I suppose thats the advantage of digital scanning, which probably wasn't around when DJH mastered their 40.
Tony
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi Tony
The bogie extensions have gone. There's about 1/2 lb of milled pewter on the floor, so that will lighten the model a bit. Mick will be happier as well I also managed to take the front buffer beam off which made it easier to tidy the front end, but also meant I could sit the sides further in. Not as much as they should be , but better.
I have just the 2 40s; the subjects of this thread. I would not be averse to doing either a JLTRT or MMP one - just for comparative purposes you understand - should one come my way.
Richard
The bogie extensions have gone. There's about 1/2 lb of milled pewter on the floor, so that will lighten the model a bit. Mick will be happier as well
I also managed to take the front buffer beam off which made it easier to tidy the front end, but also meant I could sit the sides further in. Not as much as they should be , but better.I have just the 2 40s; the subjects of this thread. I would not be averse to doing either a JLTRT or MMP one - just for comparative purposes you understand - should one come my way.
Richard
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Hi Tony
I have just the 2 40s; the subjects of this thread. I would not be averse to doing either a JLTRT or MMP one - just for comparative purposes you understand - should one or the other or both
Richard
cheers
Mike
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Hi Tony
The bogie extensions have gone. There's about 1/2 lb of milled pewter on the floor, so that will lighten the model a bit. Mick will be happier as well
I have just the 2 40s; the subjects of this thread. I would not be averse to doing either a JLTRT or MMP one - just for comparative purposes you understand - should one come my way.
Richard
now that you've reduced the front side frame width you may need to check the rear to make sure it's all square, I think DJH designed it like this as I can see stubs behind the buffers for sprung buffers or fixing bolts, so if the front is designed to be this wide then the rear transverse beam may be a little wide too. With a bogie this long and a parallel body just above to compare with I think any taper on the side frames will be noticeable?Anyway, keep up the good work
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi
A little more work on the first DJH 40 bogie.
I have completed the mechanical side, and it now has 3 axles powered.
I've decided not to refit the keeper plate, which means that I can attach copperclad to the conveniently located spacers - problem solved.
The bogie components, as you would expect from DJH are well cast, but a fair few had been soldered on askew. This pic shows the one sideframe reduced to what I found acceptable.
and here are the bits to clean up and reattach. Also included in the pic is a pair of MMPs sand pipes and traps - much better than DJH's bent wire approach.
Here is the other side mostly back together.
Much better. The removal of the odd body beams from the top has made a huge difference to the look, and the MMP sandpipes are shown to good effect.
Richard
A little more work on the first DJH 40 bogie.
I have completed the mechanical side, and it now has 3 axles powered.
I've decided not to refit the keeper plate, which means that I can attach copperclad to the conveniently located spacers - problem solved.
The bogie components, as you would expect from DJH are well cast, but a fair few had been soldered on askew. This pic shows the one sideframe reduced to what I found acceptable.
and here are the bits to clean up and reattach. Also included in the pic is a pair of MMPs sand pipes and traps - much better than DJH's bent wire approach.
Here is the other side mostly back together.
Much better. The removal of the odd body beams from the top has made a huge difference to the look, and the MMP sandpipes are shown to good effect.
Richard
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Richard,
That all looks very neat. I like the sanders and some years ago ordered one packet of each type from DJP, some are suitable for steam locos too!
Have you got the sideplay you need in the bogie? Did you need to make any mods?
Steph
That all looks very neat. I like the sanders and some years ago ordered one packet of each type from DJP, some are suitable for steam locos too!
Have you got the sideplay you need in the bogie? Did you need to make any mods?
Steph
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi Steph
How did the other sander set (apart from number) differ from the set I got for the 40? There's no pictures on DJP's website.
I believe I have the sideplay I need - it pushed round the main line curves fine. I don't think it will go through the yard, but that isn't an issue. I haven't as yet made any mods. The driven axle has very little sideplay in order keep the gear in mesh. The middle and front axles have a fair amount of sideplay, but not excessive - I still used a washer each side, and the pony axle has maximum sideplay.
The pony axle will need pretty strong springing as the flanges presents some funny angles to curved points, and ride up otherwise, but given the weight of the loco, I can't imagine the resultant loss of traction will cause me grief! I'm sort of offended by the design of the pony, but if it works reliably, that will be fine.
Richard
iploffy
OC Blue Brigade
Richard the more weight the merrier, my class 40 was heavily sprung on the front pony truck so much so it pushed the leading driving wheels off the track. A few fixes were tried but I am inclined to go with the weight option. The first fix was the thinning down of the rubbing plate that didn't achieve anything so the spring had a few coils removed from it, still no great satisfaction so the next option is the adding of more weight. the problem stems from the fact the peaks and 40's had no secondary suspension the primary springing doing all of the work and it caused a lot of problems with cracked frames and derailments. this is very hard to replicate in a small scale.
Ian
Ian