Yorky D's Küchentisch - Purists look away now.....

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Impressive :thumbs: I'm guessing both halves are a putty like substance before baking as in the first photo the parts look like they are just laid on top. So when the two halves are compressed the parts indent into both pieces, if so, what stops the two halves sticking together?

And yes, I do remember Mouldy Old Dough, my mum used to play it to death after hearing it in Liptons and walking round to the record store in Teignmouth.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
I'm guessing both halves are a putty like substance before baking as in the first photo the parts look like they are just laid on top. So when the two halves are compressed the parts indent into both pieces, if so, what stops the two halves sticking together?

Yes, they are like putty and both halves are dusted all over with french chalk to prevent sticking to the vulcaniser and each other before laying and partially pressing the parts in.



That's a blast from the past.


You don't appear to have had much shrinkage.

Almost none or at least negligible shrinkage. Industry standard alloy was used which is Solidus at 185 deg C, Liquidus at 231 deg C and a pouring temperature of 300+ deg C . One of my trials is to solder these together with 145 deg C solder. .....and if this fails I can throw it into the smelter and cast some more :).
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Yup, more solebars. I've built up a couple of the chassis as a test.

The use of 145 deg C solder was a bit of a failure so this was consigned to the smelter for recycling.....

The two below were built up using 70 deg C low melt solder and are quite strong. I used the lowest setting on the iron.... 200 deg C and quickly flashed the solder in. There is sufficient mass in the casting to act as a bit of a heat sink.providing you do not linger.

LCDR 9' 3'' wb passenger van.
Spin 14.jpg

LBSCR 9' 6'' wb wagon.Spin 13.jpg
These are the buffer beams as they came out of the mould (LCDR wagon). The buffer holes are 3 mm diameter.
Spin 12.jpg

And the coupling hook hole was designed to accept a CPL hook without resort to filing out (this one is the Metropolitian Railway buffer beam).
Spin 11.jpg

And this shown the reverse of the buffer beam (bottom).
Spin 15.jpg
The two small blind holes to the lower right and left of the main buffer holes are there to indicate the top. There are corresponding blind holes on the solebar, again indicating the top and these can be seen in the photo two of this sequence (LBSC 9' 6'' chassis).

These may appear crude but they'll work for me :).

Just need to get on with the wagon bodies.....:oops:.
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Nice stuff Dave,

When I see you next feel free to remind me to show you the 'knack' for soldering whitemetal with proper solder...

Neat job on the parts and casting. The 'dots' are a good idea; nice to see a bit of malice aforethought in use when designing parts. :thumbs:

Steph
 
Grand Central

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
......aka Birmingham New Street.

Somehow it doesn't quite have the same romantic allure or grandeur as it's namesake in New York but I snapped this (mobile phone) on my way home from Aylesbury today after travelling from Princes Risborough to Birmingham Moor Street. I just liked the reflection in the of the approach trackwork on the station facade, however it's still as gloomy as ever at track level.
New St WT.jpg

And on the way down on Friday I shot these in a hurry at Moo-er translation - Moor Street after legging it from New Street as this was my train ready for departure. Surprisingly in today's penchant for multiple units, a loco hauled push-pull set with a good excuse for only lightly weathering the undercarriage. Personally I think it would all look better in the livery of the parent company i.e. DB :) - including Arriva, Cross Country and Grand Central train sets.
Moor St 1 WT.jpg

Although I'm no GW fan it's good to see this station preserved albeit with some modern furniture and the loss of some awnings. And I was also impressed with the Art Deco architecture at Leamington Spa (no picture of this :().
Moor St 2 WT.jpg
And for those short of space in bays - just build around rail built buffer stops ;). These are the remains in the Aylesbury bay at Princes Risborough.
P Rboro 2.jpg
And whilst in Aylesbury I watched a belter of a thunderstorm last night (both taken close to midnight with the limitations of the mobile phone) :).
TS3.jpg

It was absolutely tipping it down at this point.
TS2.jpg
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Hi Dave.

We didn't have the problems that Birmingham suffered with the storm, but it was the worst I remember. We spent the evening in the conservatory watching it, and there was some damage to trees and roads when I took Steph to Tring Station. The worst area seemed to be to the West of Wendover Woods which were in silhouette as the lightning struck. I think it was the end of the world.......

As you say, good to see a loco hauled train, but that Class 68 is as ugly as sin. The design consultants have a lot to answer for.

Brian

PS - Nice photo of New Street.
 
Bothy

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
... Bothy - and not the famous 80's Ashes victor either.

It's another project to add to the various uncompleted ones :). This time it's the Intentio 7mm Bothy kit.

Before construction, the first thing I did was to lay the brick panels face down on the concrete path and hit the reverse with a hammer to add some relief into the brickwork. In some areas I was a bit too heavy handed so the result looks like battle scars which I'll probably hide with a notice board.
Bothy 02.jpg

The kit itself is easy to construct and this is the shell.
Bothy 01.jpg

One detail item I wanted to recreate is a corner which has been clouted in an accident and disturbing the brickwork. To achieve this I carefully cut around the brick courses to release the corner and removed the outermost brick in order to re-site.Bothy 03.jpg
Bothy 04.jpg
Bothy 05.jpg

Once the glue had set the ensemble was given an undercoat of Vallejo German Red Brown (Rot Braun RAL8012) surface primer which highlights the areas for tidying up - namely the corner bricks - and provides me a suitable base on which to apply the brick colours. Having said that the colour is very similar to the bricks I've seen on Victorian terraced houses in areas of Leeds, Nelson, Rochdale and Manchester to name a few.
Bothy 06.jpg
Bothy 07.jpg
Bothy 08.jpg
Bothy 09.jpg
Bothy 10.jpg
 
Bothy

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Some more work on the structure trying to make it look worse for wear.

This time trying out a MIG (now defunct) concrete pigment. Just mixed it into a paste and applied to the building. Once dry wiped it down with a just moist cloth to remove the dust from the brickwork leaving the mortar behind. Prior to this I painted a course of bricks about 2/3 up the wall and the capping bricks on the foundation courses brown. And the alternate corner bricks on the six outer corners painted a buff colour.

Bothy 11.jpg
Bothy 14.jpg

The pock marks on the wall somewhat stand out so I'll retouch some these with a brighter brick red colour so they appear recently broken. There are also some diagonal scratches which will also be retouched.

The photos show the building to be rather white (photo taken in late evening so I opened a stop) as if the salts have leached and again I can always remove some of this with a damp cloth - that is if I want to.
Bothy 15.jpg
Bothy 16.jpg

And the walloped corner....
Bothy 12.jpg
Bothy 13.jpg
 

BrushType4

Western Thunderer
A common feature of dilapidation is a dropped arch. If not too late, you could cut the bricks of one of the arches and drop them?
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Now, that is effective, Dave, and marvellous attention to detail with the textured brick surface and damaged corner bricks.
The finish is indistinguishable from real buildings IMHO. I’m an admirer of MiG products, but could soon run up a bill with the range of products available.

A shame that the textured ‘concrete’ is no longer available, but perhaps tile grout would prove a worthy substitute. Or perhaps not:(

Regards,

Jonte
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Great piece of weathering Dave, if I might suggest a touch of moss growth here and there......

regards

Mike
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
A shame that the textured ‘concrete’ is no longer available, but perhaps tile grout would prove a worthy substitute. Or perhaps not:(

I've just checked, contrary to my earlier comment MiG weathering powders are still available but branded Ammo by Mig Jimenez. Now part with some ££'s :).

I may try tile grout though and dye it with acrylic paint to achieve various mortar colours. Could may well be a cheaper alternative.
 
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