ditto regarding Simon, im still trying to finish the mok 4mt, many thanks to you and pad for the .photos etc. still got the 9f to build as well as just purchasing a hatchette scotsman kit off that well known site, KenI'm in "exactly" the same situation - I do hope Simon is okay. As for the Finney V2 - I'm not going to let it stop me opening the boxes - a new project is on it's way!
...and you were doing so well with the Finney and MOK kits......... purchasing a hatchette scotsman kit off that well known site, Ken
i just like a challenge, like plumbing the injector bodies on the 4mt...and you were doing so well with the Finney and MOK kits
I'd love a V2, but know I'd just end up making a whole new chassis for it, nowt wrong with the kit of course, far from it.
I just like adding all the stays, middle cylinder block and niff naff that only the dead Beetle attitude reveals.
Contact 'Solder and Fluxes' on firstname.lastname@example.org (usual disclaimer)
They are specialists in the soldering electronic industry and now sell to modelers and model engineers in small quantities. They sell modern fluxes some of which are 'no clean' and importantly they are 'safe'. They are also owners (I think) of Frys Fluxite and Bakers Fluid. You will find them very helpful, its a family business I think, based in Chepstow, just over the old Severn bridge.
I can only recommend them as a satisfied customer.
Good luck, John
As my B.O.G. flux was getting extremely low I started looking at an alternative. I've tried a few alternatives - the citric acid and phosphoric acid versions above but I didn't like them as much as the B.O.G. Safety flux. I also tried a couple of the recommended no-clean fluxes recommended on the Guild forum - these were alcohol based but I couldn't get on with them either - the flux just seemed to flash off instantly before I could get the joint up to temperature.View attachment 135998
Cheers - just ordered some for comparison.
I wouldn't say exactly the same but it's certainly the closest I've found so far.Keep us posted, it would be interesting to hear if it is in fact the same as that sold by B.O.G.
Good job sir, I've also noticed that B.O.G flux often fails to spread cleanly, maybe it needs a little drop of IPA to reduce it's surface tension, something I was going to try but haven't got around to.I wouldn't say exactly the same but it's certainly the closest I've found so far.
So ordered Saturday afternoon and it turned up this morning - well packed so a thumbs up for good and prompt service.
Initial impressions are it's very similar to B.O.G. flux in that it's blue! Although a slightly different blue - I would say more aqua blue rather than a cerulean blue of the B.O.G. The other difference is the smell - not technical in anyway but it is different. Not sure how to describe the B.O.G. flux but after consulting with my offspring the verdict was that the Pearsons flux smells just like those solid blue disinfectant blocks they put in the gents urinals!
View attachment 136247
in use - I tried tinning my sample sheets used earlier - the Pearsons Safety flux used in the sample circled in red.
This was on the brass sheet - very oxidised no cleaning.
View attachment 136245
and the nickel-silver sheet.
View attachment 136246
Again wetting and flow seemed on a par with B.O.G. and WL1.
A couple of test joints, an overlap and a 90deg join.
View attachment 136248
Actually it flowed really nicely - the resultant solder joint was nice and smooth, the bead of solder in the corner of the joint was nice and tight if you know what I mean, also not too much spatter. The 90deg join it was soldered on the right hand side but it's not that clear on the photo but on the lefthand side it is possible to make out that the solder penetrated all through the join. So pretty good result as far as I'm concerned.
A couple of other points - I'm not sure whether to describe it as viscosity or surface tension but again very similar to the B.O.G. flux. As shown in the first photo I decant the flux into a little dropper bottle to apply just a drop or two from the needle to the joint. With B.O.G. and Pearsons then the flux stays as a bead drop - much like a rain drop on a freshly waxed and polished car - whereas the WL1 flux seemed to have a much lower surface tension so that when you tried to place a drop or two it immediately flattened out and washed over the entire joint - like a rain drop on a car that hasn't been polished for a month or so. The one other small difference noted so far is that with the B.O.G. flux I found some of the ingredients tends to settle out of suspension and the bottle needed a good shake prior to use - now it might be because it's been in transit or that the flux is fresher but there were no such issues with the Pearsons flux.
So there is the caveat that I need to use it few days and also see if there is any corrosion on the joints just test but overall the Pearson Safety Flux is not exactly the same as the B.O.G. flux but it's the nearest equivalent I've found so far. In some ways it slightly edges it so far as it doesn't appear to get a sediment. It is better than the WL1 flux in that it isn't plastered in hazard marking symbols and certainly the fumes were a lot less offensive.
From my very limited testing so far I think if you have been using B.O.G. flux then this is the best equivalent and appears to be equally effective and useable and one I think I will be recommending. So many thanks for the link @ScottW a brilliant find.
p.s. forgot to say total charge for 200ml incl p&p was £10.16 so it's not going to break the bank!