Weathering coal hoppers
- Thread starter steve50
- Start date
steve50
Western Thunderer
The coupling hooks do look a bit big, they are all I had to hand and I'm also not too good at using 3 links so they are easier to use. I plan on smaller ones on any locos I use.
Finished all the wagons now, just need a suitably weathered loco to collect them from the sidings!
steve50
Western Thunderer
Just to close the chapter on the wagons, I've put tarpaulins over a couple.
I used plain tissue paper and after painting used satin varnish to hopefully give a plasticy look. I had a bit of trouble with the ends but looking at some photos the were never neat and tidy!
I used plain tissue paper and after painting used satin varnish to hopefully give a plasticy look. I had a bit of trouble with the ends but looking at some photos the were never neat and tidy!
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steve50
Western Thunderer
Next up I've started to weather a couple of Hornby Coal hoppers. I've done the insides first and after watching a video on youtube,
I made a start, after the initial removal I used some washes and powders to add a bit of variation and staining to the wagons.
With the second wagon I wanted to be a bit more restrained. I found a video on the Vallejo Rust and Staining set that was lurking in my paint box,
The panels I've started on are the two to the right of centre, the others are experiments that will eventually be covered. I need to find a method of painting underframes as that always stumps me, I like the dusty finish of an airbrush but looking at some photo's they were never that uniform so I'm wondering if I should just brush paint them?
With the second wagon I wanted to be a bit more restrained. I found a video on the Vallejo Rust and Staining set that was lurking in my paint box,
steve50
Western Thunderer
Thank you.
Ozdogfox
New Member
With the Hornby 21T hoppers, the body is very easy to separate from the underframe moulding, it just clips in place. I always separate mine and remove the wheels and give the u/frame a waft over with Tamiya TS62 or 69 from a rattle can. This gives a suitable base coat for further weathering with Lifecolor/Vallejo paints.
These are not hoppers but it shows the idea!
Cheer from Oz,
Peter C.
These are not hoppers but it shows the idea!
Cheer from Oz,
Peter C.
steve50
Western Thunderer
Thanks Peter, do you paint the wheels using the same colour?
Ozdogfox
New Member
Steve, I spray the wheels with Tamiya TS1 first, then add rust highlights when they are back in the u/frame with Vallejo rust.
steve50
Western Thunderer
Def not 7mm Tony, I cant say I'm not tempted by some of the models available now though!
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Hi @steve50
These are REALLY lovely. I particularly like the chipped paintwork on the first example. Now, about those chunky brake levers...
Cheers
Jan
steve50
Western Thunderer
Thanks Jan, I know there's a lot more I could do in the way of detailing, I've still got to represent the levers and rails on the ends.Hi @steve50
These are REALLY lovely. I particularly like the chipped paintwork on the first example. Now, about those chunky brake levers...
Cheers
Jan
steve50
Western Thunderer
Thank you. There isn't a thread on this site at the moment. It's a 5 ' x 1" ish shunting plank, deliberatley pretty vague in location and era so as to run a variety of stock.
Captain Kernow
Western Thunderer
I'm a big fan of Smiths coupling hooks, despite them being overscale.
This is due to their relative ease of use.
Consider a prolonged operating session, perhaps at an exhibition. You are on your feet all the time, you are getting tired and perhaps your lower back is beginning to ache. You need to be able to couple quickly and easily, which is made a lot harder if you're fiddling and faffing around with scale hooks (no matter how good they might look).
I say this because I've been there! These days, I also use a steel lower link on both 3-link and screw link couplings, together with a magnetic shunting pole with a decent light on it - that also makes a really big difference.