Using Chinchilla dust as a surface texture

[Dog Star]

We have been experimenting with this product and not had success... We have tried wet acrylic paint as a bonding agent and that has not worked. We tried scattering the dust powder onto wet PVA and, as before, the dust powder did not stick to the surface.We

How have you used this product for surface texture?

Thank you, Graham
How

 

[ullypug]

Yes. Gloss paint and chinchilla dust sieved through a pair of tights. Just heap a load into the toe end and shake.

If you use pva , you need more on the bed than you think. I dilute it slightly to make it really soak everything.

If you’ve already put some down, wet the area with IPA sprayed through a perfume style dispenser (you can get them off Amazon cheap) and brush on or use a dropper to apply dilute pva like you would for ballasting.

 

[Richard Gawler]

When I used chinchilla dust for a ground texture, I obtained good results sprinkling it onto wet gloss enamel paint (this applied quite thickly) but when I sprinkled the dust onto dilute PVA I ended up with a swollen-up mess. Gloss enamel is a better choice than matt because it it is tackier.

 

[simond]

I purchased some so-called chinchilla dust, it appeared to be fine dried sand.

 

[Pencarrow]

I purchased some so-called chinchilla dust, it appeared to be fine dried sand.

Yes, very little Chinchilla in chinchilla dust, at least untill it's been used for dusting. It's supposed to be ground up volcanic ash of some sort. (Yes, we have Chinchillas).

 

[Mick B]

Hi Graham,
I've had excellent results using Mapei Latex Plus from Screwfix as a bonding agent when using Chinchilla Dust invariably applied to hardened Sculptamold. Once the Sculptamold has hardened I paint it a suitable ground colour using cheap acrylic paint from Hobbycraft, once the paint has dried I apply a liberal coat of Latex Plus (2/3 LP to 1/3 water and a squirt of washing up liquid) and then sprinkle on the CD using a wire tea strainer. After a short length of time I dribble on more LP using a pipette to cover the whole area.
I then leave it a few days to harden before brushing/hoovering up the residue. The only downside to using this method is that it isn't suitable for use in winter as the drying time is far too long.

Good luck, Mick.
P.S. I also use the LP for fixing ballast (O scale) in place.

 

[simond]

Mapei Latex Plus is good for fixing granite clippings, and doesn’t turn them green, which PVA does.

 

[Osgood]

Do you have to use special secateurs for granite?

 

[Richard Gawler]

Too sharp sometimes, had to read this twice.

 

[Osgood]

I work with cutting hedge technology.

I have also worked with concrete grinding technology, and last time I levelled a cement floor slab I kept a big tub of the resultant dust and grit - with careful sieving it should provide a decent equivalent to chinchilla dust (and maybe more 'wettable - which is I guess the issue with adhesives and chinchilla dust?).
As I guess would some of the industrial grades of limestone dust - but not sure how to obtain it other than in 50kg sacks?

 

[Tim Hale]

I am aware that what I am about to may not be appropriate but I am impressed by AK Interactive textured acrylic used for realistic finishes.

Please look at, I was blown away by the ease of use and realism Post 23

Sorry if I butted in

Tim

 

[Richard Gawler]

How have you used this product for surface texture?

This rendering is chinchilla dust laid onto wet gloss enamel paint, the paint applied quite thickly one wall at a time. There is a Merit coal office buried inside here, with three new walls and a new roof.

The plinth and the road surface are talcuum powder on a different colour of paint. I did half a dozen practice swabs to get the colours I wanted.