P A D
Western Thunderer
True. However, MOK doesn't offer them for sale on the website and the Invertrain ones will pass muster when painted.Why not go for the MOK buffers. About the best for the standards.
Nick
I've been making steady if slow progress on the under pinnings. I bent one of the steps once too often so decided it was time to strengthen them up. The one under the cab that has been straightened has received a backing plate.
On the other side I've added a simple U bracket from 0.9mm NS rod.
At the front I've added a single length of NS rod to the rear edge along with a diagonal stay. I've done a similar thing at the rear but without the stay.
I've scratched up a representation of the lower part of the ashpan on which to mount the ashpan hopper door lever which is from Ragstone.
And in position. The drive will be on the rear axle of which there is clearance behind the truncated ashpan.
When it came to adding the cylinder drain pipes, I found yet again that the holes in the wrappers were too large for the pins on the castings.To correct this I added an overlay of thin NS plate and drilled new holes to match the size of the pins. Front sandpipes and supports have been added.
Now for the injectors, again from Ragstone to replace the poor quality white metal options from the kit. Here I'd, made a start on adding the pipes, the lower one being the outer injector.
The supports have now been added to the ends of the
rear sandpipes.
Right hand cylinder drain pipes, front sandpipe and flange added to the snifting valve cover.
Same thing on t'other side.
And a close up of the ash pan operating lever.
The injectors should be mounted on brackets off the main frame but that would create issues separating the body and chassis, although it could be done, but I decided to mount them on the underside of the body as a simpler option.
The water valves are from the spares box and the pipe unions were macd from 3mm brass rod, drilled on the lathe, cut and sanded to finish.
Here's a close up showing the holes drilled in the ends of the drain pipes to give a more realistic appearance.
Back tracking to the cab roof, I've added a short strip of 0.7 NS rod just behind the front and rear edges in the centre. This prevents the roof from being pushed back and forwards when handing, giving a more secure fit but still easy to remove and install.
The front buffers are now fitted but the rear ones are still to go on.
Cheers,
Peter